Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm planning on having my timing belt replaced and just have a few little questions.

Does anyone know where I can buy the timing belt, tensioner bearing, idler bearings from and roughly what prices?

In one on my last posts, one of the guys were kindly enough to provide me with a price and part number for the idler and tensioner bearings but I'm unsure if the local bearing suppliers will be able to cross-reference the part numbers with theirs so any identification of online shops etc that sell these components would be great.

I've read somewhere that the N1 Water Pump can be used on a RB25DET. If so, does anyone know where I can buy it from.

Also, is there water pumps other than the N1 brand that I can use for my car?

Lastly what price range should I be expecting for all components?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thank you.

Steve

My local Nissan dealer sells Nissan parts, like cambelts, idler pulleys etc. The RB25DET cambelt was ~$90, my bearings were in good condition.

"N1" is a class of circuit racing, the Nissan N1 water pump was designed for use in circuit races for GTR's, ie; designed for constant high rpm. I wouldn't be using one on a road car:cheers:

slightly off topic, but after applying to get a quote from hardcore racing in brisbane to get my 100K service done (still waiting on quote to get back to me tomorrow), the dude was adament he would only use genuine nissan idler bearings. He said he had seen to many aftermarket bearings die shortly afterwards. considoring the idler bearing can cost over $300 for the genuine part, im wondering how true this is?

Hmm that's scary. This place called Mekong spares sell some for $104 for both. I was going to get those. THey aren't original - but japanese.

My belt is really loose. Haven't pulled it down yet, but do you ever usually need to replace the spring???

Nissan wanted about $80 for the belt and $150 for the correct pump (RB25DET series 1 ...NOT the VL pump)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...