Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

okay, so i've taken my car back for some warranty repairs.....so i'm now without a car for the next few days (hopefully get it back before the weekend)

until then i'm being chauffered around in my gf's little Accent (yes, HYUNDAI! I can't escape!)

Just to let you know, i found the following faults.

1. Bubbling noise about 4500rpm while on boost. (skyzer knows what I'm talking about)

2. Gearbox Synchro's between 4th and 5th mash, and there's a drivetrain vibration in 5th gear (gts-t vspec has the same sorta thing)

3. The Brakes are squeaky as shit, and are crap. (they look like new pads, probably misaligned)

4. HICAS reports speed sensor error (thus the RSM doesnt work!)

and last but not least OIL out the Blitz BOV....

So the guy I dropped it into said for all the electrical stuff, bubbling noise etc.. it'll goto BARRIES DYNO! (apparently he fixes everyone's f*ck-ups)

so this should be VERY interesting. I'll let you know how it goes.

-K.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7213-i-got-no-car-sniff/
Share on other sites

welcome to the world of skylines and modifications... i won't bother telling you how many times my car has been off the road due to mods or repairs... my mags are once again my hassle at the moment.... my car might be off the road for a week :-( I should be used to it by now though... My skyline hasn't been faulty or nothing just time consuming waiting for parts and installatin times on things.......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7213-i-got-no-car-sniff/#findComment-106180
Share on other sites

I must say you guys with turbos polly beat the shit out of my NA but man! how much $$$$ you guys spending on it!

I never had major problems with my car ... NOT AT ALL, not even oil leak. my garage is clean as...

dang... I guess RB25DE is good as long as put turbo on it! :lol:

but hey I wish I has Turbo some times... I pretend making blow off sound in my car phhhhheeeewww... :P

cheers

Joe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7213-i-got-no-car-sniff/#findComment-106198
Share on other sites

Strich9ine,

I saw your car yesterday, it should be going to Barries today, but he tends to be so slow that I'd be surprised if you have it by the weekend. He is very good but tends to take his time. I checked out your RSM, it was set differently to mine, who did it for you? Mine works fine so I don't see why yours had different settings in it.

Look's like you'll be cruising in the Accent this weekend, you should take it to the drags tommorrow night.

See'ya :burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7213-i-got-no-car-sniff/#findComment-106199
Share on other sites

OIL out the BOV is bad.. that means oil is getting out of the engine.. busted turbo or the rings are gone and the oil is entering the intake track.

had this happen to my TX3.. ring lands were foobarred.

but its under warranty, so its all good.

Shaun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7213-i-got-no-car-sniff/#findComment-106246
Share on other sites

You don't have to pay anything - just make them fix it. I don't think a compression test would cost too much - but look on the bright side - if it is the rings get the mech to replace the pistons with forgies and get them to pay (most) of the labour - even better if the ringlands are shot and they will be paying part cost of the forgies and all the labour! mmmm forgies:) Then at the same time get the rods shot peened, and the crank balanced. Ah, its nice to dream eh?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7213-i-got-no-car-sniff/#findComment-106302
Share on other sites

No you dont have to take the head off, just pull the plugs. I have seen two types of compression guage, one that has to be held in place by hand and one that screws into the cylinder. the guage has a one way valve, so the reading stays there until you reset it (mind you this was a few years back, probably have flash electronic ones nowadays). As for compression, from memory there is a range - eg from 160-180psi - that is considered healthy (different for different cars), and if it goes outside you have trouble. Quite usually one cylinder goes first the back ones for some reason.

I'm not sure what the compression on skylines is supposed to be, the figures I used were for example only. As I mentioned, this info is from my youth when I played with alot of holdens and fords - shock horror.

If anything I have said is wrong appologies, and please correct me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7213-i-got-no-car-sniff/#findComment-106335
Share on other sites

Steve,

Thanks for clearing that up, I've never had it done, but I suppose with my forged pistons going in they will do it after that. I think the reason the back pistons go first, at least on GTS-t's is due to the exhasut manifold design. Apparently the number 6 cylinder has alot more heat due to the relatively poor design of the manifold. It also tend to run slightly leaner than the others, further adding to the heat. The heat will cause fractures to appear and therefore the compression on that piston will be lost.

Anyway, thats what I was told.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7213-i-got-no-car-sniff/#findComment-106342
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
    • New rear lights, filler panel sprayed, cleaned and back together    before, during, after shots 😍
×
×
  • Create New...