Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I have a k&n pod filter on my r33 gtst. Its sucking hot air from the engine bay. It has a partion around it to reduce this, but I want to duct cold air from the front bumber. I have a standard intercooler. Has anybody else done this? Where can u get piping through to get to the pod? Would I have to cut holes through metal?

Regards,

Dan

dan_the_man,

I've got to agree with Steve, do the FMIC, it will make much more difference, then use the hole for the factory IC as the intake for the CAI. Most people tend to use the flexible silver tubing as the intake runner, but can be done with PVC, just spray it to make it look less shit.

See'ya :burnout:

a 3" holesaw will go through the metal in 10seconds. just drill a hole, then feed your pipe through. you can get hose/pipe from any hose distributor, i got mine from IHF in welshpool for $20. black - flexible. cant say it made much of a performance difference but if you want to do it, takes about 15minutes all up

Have had a partition done and that definately made a difference, mainly after sitting in traffic or on hot days the throttle response was alot crisper, alot closer to when the car is first started in the morning. A duct, at the cost of only a few dollars, couldn't hurt, and is supposed to give a better top end as well - only to the tune of a few kilowatts but better than nothing.

Just my 0.02c

Steve

I too am a bit faint hearted, just run 10lb standard, but have been known to crank it up to 12.5 (0.85bar) when its a bit cooler.

The reason being, that when in traffic, I think I am getting a bit of heat soak through the coola piping, so she tends to ping a bit on higher boost settings during the day when it warms up. Also waiting on a Z32 AFM so that I can get a better tune, then might try upping the boost a bit more.

Steve

It don't make a lot of sense to me. If the coola is big enough, it shouldn't matter what temp air is going into it, by the time it gets out of the intercooler it should be around 20-30 deg anyway.... right??:confused:

I think what I'm trying to say is that a cold air intake will only reduce the load off the coola, which isn't gonna produce a real power gain...

riggaP,

The intake temperature will dramatically effect the temperature going into the plenum, thats why everyone tries to reduce the hot air going in, either via a CAI or vented bonnet etc.

Imagine its a 30deg day, if you have no CAI and engine air goes into the cooler at 45deg, even with a big cooler you wont get the temp down much past 32deg. On the other hand if the 30deg air goes in the temp could go down to 24deg. Although it doesn't sound like alot it can make a big difference, cooler air carries more fuel which means more power, and the car is less likely to ping.

Big intercoolers are great but will not cure high intake temperatures, minimising the intake temperature is the best way.

See'ya:burnout:

totally agreed:D

or we just leave the air alone and put the cooler in the freezer every night and served chilled in da morinig:D jk

guys, as you would saw my thread, i need a new turbo.

do you think i should get a GT28 400hp? bolts on to the stock manifold.

ron

Why are you changing your turbo? What other mods do you have? Where do you expect to be getting spool up? What is the car being used for? What are your future power plans?

sorry to be asking so many questions, but I think it is important to get things in perspective otherwise any opinions would probably be no better than a yes or no answer:)

Steve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...