Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I am a long time 'lurker' of these forums and I am looking at getting an R34 Series 2 in the next six months. I currently have a 2001 Magna (yes flame away) and I would be interested in any R34 owners who could give me a comparison between these two cars (apart from the obvious performance diff). I am pretty happy with the Magna except I'd probably like a little bit more 'go' and I'm sick of driving what most people think is a boring old mans car.

Series 2 R34s seem pretty hard to find. One of the importers (who advertises on this site) seems to have one 2001 4 door gtt which looks awesome (especially for a 4 door - which will keep the Mrs happy). Its got one of those series 2 tv/dvd/satnavs but i've read you basically can only use it for dvd and the tv tuner is too expensive to convert and the satnav doesnt have an Aussie map disc (or am i wrong?).

Does anyone know when more 2001 and newer R34's are going to start coming here or where the best place too look is?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72183-2001-r34-series-ii-availability/
Share on other sites

ive driven a rent-a-car 2002-4 magna, compared to my r34 GTT sedan it was a much bigger car, with heavy steering (had to yank the wheel around a few times to do a 90degree turn where as you could drive an r34 with one hand) and no go (compared to the magna the r34 would hit 160km/h by total accident while overtaking very quickly) . Im not a tall guy so the r34 seemed to fit me pretty well since western cars are designed around the typical over 6ft guy therefore you sit in the car as though your in a chair, the r34 being design for the average japanese guy which is about 5,5 which i am the car feeling more like your sitting down with your feet up (similar to a supra). It says its a five seater however you couldn't fit 3 average people along the back since the backseats have a bucket seat feel making the centre seat more of an arm rest. The ride is a little rougher than magna being more sporter but still a very comfortable ride. Plus, it looks better - even in stock form.

Hmmm so being 185cm / 6Ft '1 it might be a bit tight in there..

Is the insurance better on the sedan version? I'd be looking at the tiptronic auto sedan version also so surely that would be be better even though its a turbo import?

I'm hoping something like 900 to 1000.. currently im a platinum member (hehe) of RACQ but they probably will hear the word skyli.... and say 'take your mobile coffin outta here!'.

Did yours come with the tv/satnav/dvd system? If so do you use it at all for anything?

Hmmm so being 185cm / 6Ft '1 it might be a bit tight in there..

Is the insurance better on the sedan version? I'd be looking at the tiptronic auto sedan version also so surely that would be be better even though its a turbo import?

I'm hoping something like 900 to 1000.. currently im a platinum member (hehe) of RACQ but they probably will hear the word skyli.... and say 'take your mobile coffin outta here!'.

Did yours come with the tv/satnav/dvd system? If so do you use it at all for anything?

insurance for me being under 25, rating 1, sedan (therefore its not a sports car) at Just car it came to about $1100 in comparison my younger brother pays double that for his 200sx with less power at young & cool insurance (sounds dodgy to me). Don't get me wrong theres plenty of room to stretch out in just compared to western cars (commodore, avalon, magna) it isn't has big. No SatNav option in my version.

I'm 6'5" and have no problems except on the track I need to lean the seat back and bring it forward a notch to fit my helmet in.

My insurance is about 1600-1700. RACQ will tell you where to go by quoting you $6k or something like that.

If you import your own you can get whatever you want.

4 door = cheaper, tiptronic = cheaper ==good.

I wouldn't buy one with the tv thing in it. It doesn't do much in Aus. Get one with the gauges instead.

RACV told me to piss off when i had my supra however JustCar was a better option anyway since there fairly cheap and you can do unlimited mods with no extra cost.

Abo Bob, where are you getting your insurance?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheapest option, find a NEO head. Put in good springs, decent cams, and send it to the moon. I rev mine to 8600RPM, gets me about 232km/h down the main straight at SMSP bouncing off the limiter in 4th. I've never dared to grab 5th 🥲
    • Gday mate, Personally in my car i run 450kw in an s2 rb25 so also hydraulic lifters and have always run it to 7500 RPM and using some baby 256 poncams with new but stock springs and retainers. While i cant speak on any experience with solid lifters i personally have had no issues with my hydraulic lifters which were just cleaned and set in an oil bath before assembly over 7 years ago. Over 8k RPM is cool IMO and if you are using the stock gearbox or just a box with longer ratios the higher rpm certainly could aid to maintain boost into the next gear as that was always something i struggled with as i have a 3582r also but a hypergear equivalent could aid that issue. In summary i would make a choice on the cam you want to use first then decide which springs and retainers work best with it and then you can toss up if you really need the solid lifters, if the car is mainly street i would learn towards keeping the hydraulic lifters as when installed properly and nothing too hektik going on around them they do the trick.  
    • Yucky. Things haven't gotten any better though. Now you have Emerson and Honeywell pushing these massive DCS/Scada things with proprietary hardware. They're not a PLC, they're not a computer, they're a...distibuted PLCish/DCSish monster of thing, that only they can program because they make the barriers to entry for anyone else so fricking high. And their developers are all located in the third/developing world (and India, in case anyone does not include that place in that category) and there are terrible failings of the ESl variety, of the care and common sense variety, and f**king forget about Functional Safety. Not a one of them has any idea what it means to comply with an IEC 615xx series standard.
    • All of the ECU grounds are to the chassis, the IGN grounds are to the cylinder head and i believe all the OEM body harness are left in original locations, im trying to work out if i can tell if the sensor voltage itself is losing any power to it from the very low ECU voltage. But yeah a manual pressure gauge will help in picking which path to actually chase. Also please dont bully my wiring plan i never designed it to be universally understood hopefully it still can make sense to you, im a wiring virgin.  1 thing i have just noticed the pressure sensor in question relays both pressure and temperature, the temperature reading holds nice and steady despite the low ecu voltage but the pressure reading is the one that jumps around alot so maybe it is really a pressure issue? wiring plan.xlsx
×
×
  • Create New...