Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

u need to yake the car over the pits for an inspection and then u can get WA plates issued if it passes ok, costs around $50 for an inspection then around $15 for new plates, and you'll also have to pay licencing fees too at that time which will prob be around $230 for 6 months, im pretty sure if the car was in your name in Tassie u wont have to pay stamp duty only transfer which shouldnt be too much,

hope that helps :(;):)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72263-rego-swap-over/#findComment-1329991
Share on other sites

do u have to rip the wing off and stuff? and we have guages all over the passenger dash and on the drivers door panel bit. When we got caught be the cops in perth he said we need permits for everything? is it just easier to take it all off to go over the pits?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72263-rego-swap-over/#findComment-1330491
Share on other sites

I just transferred qld plates to wa a cpl months ago on the car i bought... the first reply above ^^^ has it right... but just in case the car wasnt already in your name (ie. u bought it from someone and it has tassie plates) then a couple of extra bits of info... as well as all the $ mentioned above you will also need to pay the Stamp Duty before they'll give you new plates.

Also, they dont tell you this and most people end up throwing away the receipt... but you'll also be entitled to a refund from Tassie Licensing of the proportion of Rego left on the Tassie rego. When you hand in your tassie plates you'll get a receipt for them, and the refund will be from that date forward - you need to fill out some forms from Tassie Licensing and attach the receipt and post it off.

As for mods etc - what I did was book an inspection but a few days before went to the inspection centre and just walked in and spoke to the inspector for a couple of mins inbetween inspections. I just said "Hi, getting my plates changed over and doing a first registration in WA inspection on Thursday. It has some mods that were OK in tassie and just wanted to quickly ask what I'll need to take off. Are dash mount gauges etc ok, and what about....." Easy way to avoid them not passing you and paying another fee and re-booking again.

:rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72263-rego-swap-over/#findComment-1330767
Share on other sites

o wicked...im not as scared now...

thanks guys!!

The car is in our name, has been for 4 months or something so i shouldnt have to pay stamp again.... and the rego is due this month so its probably not worth getting receipts and stuff huh?

thanks heaps...!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72263-rego-swap-over/#findComment-1330930
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...