Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey anyone know of anywhere esp. cheap for new tyres in Bris? Or anyone work for a tyre place?

Looking for advice too...need to spend about $200 per corner max what should I get? I've been told Yoko A539 are pretty good for the price and that they can occasionally be found for about $200, although so far I've been quoted $278 each which is why I'm wondering if anyone knows anywhere better - that was at a Bob Jane.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72313-tyres-in-brisbane/
Share on other sites

Give Jason at Quickfit Yerongpilly a call and tell him Neill suggested you talk to him!!

On a side note, I would also recommend Federal's and if you want something slightly similar and a bit cheaper as far as my memory goes Kumho Ecsta's they are very good with grip and wear!!!

It all depends on what you want and for what purpose. They also stock the new Michelins that are very good but pricing and also BF Goodrich have quite a few good types of tyres in that size

Number is 3217 1188

Thanks for the input guys. Gonna do some calling around this arvo and check prices. Seems like it's really worth ringing around because so far for the same tyres there's over $100 (on all four together) between the highest and lowest quote, and I've only rung three places!!

Checked out Bridgestone Potenza SO-3 which is what is on the car right now but they're like $350 each - no thanks!

From what I've heard the Yokohama C-drive (which replaced the A539) is supposed to be really really good for its price, often scoops the pool when they do road tests. But it's about $250 each which is steep for me...so yeah I'll check out those Federals too.

Yeah I heard the Michelin Pilots are very good too, but bit too expensive for me.

Well after a bit more shopping around I think I'm gonna go with Regal RD-3100's. They're $180 each. I saw them in TTF at Taringa and the tread pattern looked very advanced for a budget tyre. After talking to the guy and a bit of research on the net it turns out that they're a rebadged version of Dunlop SP Sport 9000 which is Dunlops top of the range performance tyre which sells for $400 each and (incidentally holds the world land speed record apparently)!! And they're exactly the same, same tread pattern, even made in the same factory apparently. The only difference is it's a unknown kind of brand: and who gives a toss about the brand name on the side of the tyre :D

A mate of mine had the Dunlop 9000's on a commadore

Good grip, good km's about 50-60000 mostly highway, but they were very noisy.

as darrin has said the dunlop 9000's are not a bad tyre but are very noisy & have been known to get tread bubbling/seperation so be careful going for the cheaper ones as they will most likely not have a replacement plan:ghost:

Try the Mt Gravatt Quick Fit Ask for Tony & tell him Mike Gwilliam put u onto him have your quotes ready & he should beat them (what size Tyres U looking @??)

Just STAY AWAY from those bloody kumos!

Me personally would be spending the money to get a decent tyre. Think of it this way... the tyre is the bit in contact with the ground, if you have the worlds best brakes, suspension etc, doesnt mean bugger all with cheap tyres.

If you can google the tyre you chose, and a few others your looking at, try and find some reviews or something.

And I dont mean to sound rude, but say you had two slicks next to each other, both look the same, black flat, and made from rubber, might be from the same factory, different name, but the rubber is probably different.

From what I've heard the Yokohama C-drive (which replaced the A539) is supposed to be really really good for its price, often scoops the pool when they do road tests. But it's about $250 each which is steep for me...

I'm was a big fan of the Yoko A539s and like you said they have been replaced

by the C-Drives - I have recently upgraded to the C-Drives and they stick like

a dried turd to a toilet.

Much quieter and smoother than the 539s, and still (and much) grippier in both the dry and the wet.

Yoko's are a little pricey - but you get what you pay for...

Yeah I dunno...I wish I could find someone who has actually used the Regals (as opposed to the Dunlops which I'm 100% sure are excellent). As David said I'm well aware they may not be the same compound, but I'm sure it's comparable to many as it's not THAT much cheaper, and the tread pattern is great. Yep you get what you pay for but at least SOME of what you're paying is for brand name and marketing.

I'd still love to get the Yokos honestly - every single tyre guy along with every person I've heard from that's had either A539 or C.drive says the only comparable performance tyres are about twice the price - that they're comparable with the Michelin Pilot series or Pirelli P Zero.

But $240 difference...

I'll try those places people mentioned but a few places I tried refused to meet the $250 I was quoted by Tyrepower @The Gap.

Oh btw I'm looking at 215/45 R17s. Thank goodness I don't have 18s, nearly fainted when I saw the price of some of them :D

hmm.. if you become a member of SAU you get discounts at bobjane...

I got 225 and 215 45/17 for around the 250-260 mark...

(btw i got the 215 and 225 at the same price - taringa bob jane are pretty good blokes...

speak to "Milton" he is the franchise owner)

cdrivemain.jpg

interesting tread pattern.... btw the c.drives use a new silcia compound to the 539s.

Hey what's the advantage of wider tyres? Just that you're putting more rubber on the road? Is it a noticeable grip difference? And is it a good idea putting wider ones on the back since then you can't rotate all four?

What kind of price difference is there between say 235 and 215/225 etc anyone know?

Your best bet for prices would be to go into a store and speak to someone direct. As Eug said, if your a member of SAu QLD you get a discount at Bobjane which is nomally quite substantial.

With wider tyres, you get extra grip. I've got 235's on the front and 255's on the back just like most imports. I normally rotate my fronts and backs to either side to get a more even tread wear and long life.

Cars with bigger tyres look fatter as well :(

your tyres not directional erin?

im jack of my car munching tyres

i didnt even get 20k out of my fronts this time and its killing me (235/40s)

time for new suspenion and tyres

ive been going to bob jane at toombul

they do pretty good prices generally

have always bought directional tyres, so havent been able to rotate them;

mite sus out non directional tyres next time. . . .

Oh btw I'm looking at 215/45 R17s. Thank goodness I don't have 18s, nearly fainted when I saw the price of some of them :)

FWIW, on a 17" rim, I wouldn't be going any less than a 235 on the front of a 33... I made the mistake of putting 225's on the front and 255's on the back, and it understeered like crazy... A set of 235's on the front fixed it up...

If your looking to save money, just go with 235's all the way around...

Hey what's the advantage of wider tyres? Just that you're putting more rubber on the road? Is it a noticeable grip difference? And is it a good idea putting wider ones on the back since then you can't rotate all four?

What kind of price difference is there between say 235 and 215/225 etc anyone know?

I think its safe to say, dont ask that question in the suspension/tyres/handeling bit... :)

Sometimes wider tyres can have an adverse effect to handleing. I lost the document when we got the new computer. But it comes down to many other factors. Such as rolling resistance, etc. But yeah, up to a point wider tyres will give more grip. But you will find probably a better quality rubber will be more effective.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
×
×
  • Create New...