Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so i got a HR32 GTS-t and i want to get a new set of wheels, just wondering what everyone else with 32's are running and what you think. If you have pics and dont mind sharing em please post them up and let me know any points to look out for or plan ahead getting a new set of wheels. I have been lookint at the ROH Adrenalin wheels at the moment in the shadow chrome finish. i want to put a set of 17's on all aorund, maybe 17x10 on the rear and 17x8 on the front, with DOT slick if the $$$'s are right? The wheels i have on the car at the moment look to stock and once i find a buyer (which i hope is soon) i will be looking at a new set.

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72391-wheels-and-tyres-for-a-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

GTR rims (r34) will look sweet as. Might need to roll/lip ur guards though (and they're expensive.

I fell in love with AVS Model 5 rims in Bronze at first sight.

The colour of ur ride would go well with some 18" white TE-37's =D

I think i saw a pic of them, what make of wheel are they or do yo have a pic at all???

I was thinking that gold or white would go well with the blue...

Hmm, here's the best i could find. Sorry, can't find any pics of them on a car.

Cheers for the pics, gives me something to look at at aleast. Wouldn't mind finding a set of white rims as i think they would look good :)

The current ones on there look ok if you ask me.. a bit bland, but they could be worse.

Personally I wouldn't be running anythting larger than 17's on an R32 as you may well have guard rubbing problems. Tyres are much cheaper in 17" if you drive hard also. Depends whether you drive your car for show or go I guess.

Wheels are an expensive thing to spend money on a car though... $2000 odd dollars can buy a heck of a lot of other mods.

The current ones on there look ok if you ask me.. a bit bland, but they could be worse.  

Personally I wouldn't be running anythting larger than 17's on an R32 as you may well have guard rubbing problems. Tyres are much cheaper in 17" if you drive hard also. Depends whether you drive your car for show or go I guess.  

Wheels are an expensive thing to spend money on a car though... $2000 odd dollars can buy a heck of a lot of other mods.

I hear what ya saying predator about costs but they way i see it is if i seel my wheels (say $500) then put another $1000 towards them thats not that much really and im not out to have the quickest car with the most Hp's at the treads, just a neat looking tidy daily that i can have a bit of fun in every now and then.

Ok i hope the owner doesn't mind me using his pic, but these are the wheels that i was thinking about (or something similar) so if anyone has any other pics of info pass it my way??? Much appreciated GMB

Rowdy32 will be able to help you out with the correct offset for 17" wheels if you want to squeeze 265 on the rear without rubbing. I have 17x8s all round with a +35 offset, they are the white wheels in my sig

Also have a spare set of gold AVS Model 6 rims with +30 offsets that wrok fine/look good, and had an old set of Model 5 AVS wheels with the same +30 rear, but +25 fronts...and again they cleared everything and looked the goods.

So when running 17s with 215 fronts and 235 rears you can get away with a range of sizes and ofsets, if you want to maximise the tyre widthwiths then PM Rowdy32:)

Rowdy32 will be able to help you out with the correct offset for 17" wheels if you want to squeeze 265 on the rear without rubbing. I have 17x8s all round with a +35 offset, they are the white wheels in my sig

Also have a spare set of gold AVS Model 6 rims with +30 offsets that wrok fine/look good, and had an old set of Model 5 AVS wheels with the same +30 rear, but +25 fronts...and again they cleared everything and looked the goods.  

So when running 17s with 215 fronts and 235 rears you can get away with a range of sizes and ofsets, if you want to maximise the tyre widthwiths then PM Rowdy32:)

Cheers for the info, i'll see if he can help me out with it

Cheers for the info, i'll see if he can help me out with it

If you are going to drift the car you should get some cheaper rims for than mine.

Koya wheels have just released a copy of the nismo LMGT4 wheel, you coudl get 4 for the price of one of mine id say and then have them sprayed whatever color you like :rofl: if you destroyed one atleast you could get one localy NEW and CHEAP

My two cents ;)

If you are going to drift the car you should get some cheaper rims for than mine.  

Koya wheels have just released a copy of the nismo LMGT4 wheel, you coudl get 4 for the price of one of mine id say and then have them sprayed whatever color you like ;) if you destroyed one atleast you could get one localy NEW and CHEAP

My two cents :cheers:

Not looking at drifting it at all, just a daily driver. But thanks for the heads up and hope ya dont mind me using your car as a example. A very nice, neat and clean example it is :(

take a look on http://firesport.ipspace.com/

they generally ahve nice 2nd hand wheels on there, i once saw te37's 16" for 1.5 which aint bad

Nothing really on there as they are all 4 stud

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...