Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

g'day mates

just curious i wana import a car from japan...

model i wanted are 92,93 RX7 or GTST R33 or GTT R34

are they eligible to import??

if they are eligible how much will the compliance cost??

regards

Franky

92,93 rx7 cant not be imported but 89,88 model can and i belived 96+ can be but i belived that no shops have done compliance for them yet (i could be wrong)

Both R33 and R33 can be import, compliance cost can average from $3000 to $5000 depending on how you go to what extra you have done (for example i belived if the car is modded there is an extra cost in removing thou parts and putting them on after compliance)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1333364
Share on other sites

Imports 101 have both stock in japan and direct access to the auctions.

www.imports101.com.au

Import101 DO NOT HAVE STOCK IN JAPAN. They know how to ring a japanese exporter and buy from their stock list. There is a huge difference. What is stopping you ringing the japanese exporter yourself and buying the car without paying imports101 a service fee?

yeah they have access to the auctions but yet again they are probably just going through someone you could go through, with out the added costs.

p.s. I have nothing against imports101 or anyone who works for them. I do have a problem with people thinking getting a guy here to do some of the leg work for you is the only or best way to go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1336171
Share on other sites

']Both R33 and R33 can be import, compliance cost can average from $3000 to $5000 depending on how you go to what extra you have done (for example i belived if the car is modded there is an extra cost in removing thou parts and putting them on after compliance)

thats an interesting statement.... :)

ok i finished being a smartass and pointing out your typo :(

as for the importing... import a stock as a rock car IMO coz i would hate for bits to go missing on the way ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1337059
Share on other sites

15-22k for a s2 GTST R33 manual??

anyone is sellin their manual GTST S2??  

pls pm me

regards

Franky

Hey Franky, there is a shop off Alexander Drive (in malaga) that sell skylines, the dude imports them and has a workshop out the back which does complinces, me and my oldman went and had a talk to him he is a very nice dude, at the moment he only can import 33, they have about 5 or r33 (s1 and s2) and come with warrety wroth checking out if you wish to buy localy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1337970
Share on other sites

Import101 DO NOT HAVE STOCK IN JAPAN. They know how to ring a japanese exporter and buy from their stock list. There is a huge difference. What is stopping you ringing the japanese exporter yourself and buying the car without paying imports101 a service fee?

Of course, by stock I meant stock list. They don't officially have 'stock' as a broker. Although that won't stop them picking up bargins and on-selling them.

p.s. I have nothing against imports101 or anyone who works for them. I do have a problem ith people thinking getting a guy here to do some of the leg work for you is the only or best way to go.

And unless you have nothing better to do with your time, it definitely is the best way to go. How much time would the majority of us waste in $/hr chasing this stuff up that could be spent in making money? I don't know about you, but my time is a lot more valuable than that. Imports 101 (and other brokers i'm sure) take all the end to end hassel away from you. I could give you examples of cases where doing otherwise is clearly a waste of time if you really want it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338137
Share on other sites

p.s. I have nothing against imports101 or anyone who works for them. I do have a problem with people thinking getting a guy here to do some of the leg work for you is the only or best way to go.

why would you have a problem with someone doing it? They have complied and licensed thousands of cars, so they obviously know what & what not to do. Think about it, if everyone's best option was to do it themselves, there wouldn't be such a thing as import brokers, because no one would use them. Don't get me wrong, if you import privately because you want the experience or like the appeal of doing everything yourself, then that's fine...but if you're doing it to save yourself some money, and were barely talking 1K here, then it could backfire bigtime. Good luck, whichever path you choose.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338190
Share on other sites

why would you have a problem with someone doing it? They have complied and licensed thousands of cars, so they obviously know what & what not to do. Think about it, if everyone's best option was to do it themselves, there wouldn't be such a thing as import brokers, because no one would use them. Don't get me wrong, if you import privately because you want the experience or like the appeal of doing everything yourself, then that's fine...but if you're doing it to save yourself some money, and were barely talking 1K here, then it could backfire bigtime. Good luck, whichever path you choose.

Hate to be the one to inform you mate :cheers: But you do everything your self even when you use an import broker.

Who contacts compliance? You do

Who sends all the paper work to compliance? You do

Who pays compliance? You do

Who pays the jap exporter? You do

Who contacts the customer broker? You do

Who pays the custom broker? You do

Who sends all the paper work to the compliance broker? You do

An import broker makes money because people think importing is hard and scary and they also think that they cant deal directly with the people they need to.

Lets look at what a broker does for you.

They can send you auction lists per day and allow you to bid. This is just done through a jap company, nothing is stopping you using the jap company yourself.

They have Web Pages that display cars in stock at Japanese export yards. Did you know these export yards also have a web site (in all cases I have seen) that give you the same access to viewing? Difference is you don’t pay a broker a fee.

They contact the exporter and arrange the buy. Did you know you can do this yourself? Email the guy in Japan? Closer to a deal? Ring the guy? plenty speak English or are aussie.

They give you details of compliance workshops and custom brokers. How hard is it to get these details anyway ask on forums? Look in the white or yellow pages?

Feel free to add anything I have missed.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338403
Share on other sites

And unless you have nothing better to do with your time, it definitely is the best way to go. How much time would the majority of us waste in $/hr chasing this stuff up that could be spent in making money? I don't know about you, but my time is a lot more valuable than that. Imports 101 (and other brokers i'm sure) take all the end to end hassel away from you. I could give you examples of cases where doing otherwise is clearly a waste of time if you really want it.

Brokers have ZERO control over the process all they do is pass on information to you.

When is it ever a good idea to have an extra person in the chain with no real input or control, just there recycling information?

It is much easier to deal with all the people involved by email or by phone if you need a quicker response.

If you don’t have time to send an email or make a 5 minute phone call then... keep using brokers because you seriously need the help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338406
Share on other sites

Hate to be the one to inform you mate :cheers: But you do everything your self even when you use an import broker.

Who contacts compliance? You do

Who sends all the paper work to compliance? You do

Who pays compliance? You do

Who pays the jap exporter? You do

Who contacts the customer broker? You do

Who pays the custom broker? You do

Who sends all the paper work to the compliance broker? You do

Ok obviously different rules apply to differnt cars and import brokers, but Ive just imported an R32 GTR, and it was as easy as finding the vehicle & paying for it. Everything else is currently being done (freight, customs, compliance & licensing etc). As I work away, the $1200 fee seemed more than reasonable...but like I said previously, if your preference is to be more involved in the whole process, then obviously each to their own!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338463
Share on other sites

A trained monkey can cut and paste off www.japanautodirect.com ask other workshops who comply RAWS cars but who you didn't pay the $1,200 to what they think of their cars and how much they inflate the price.

It is a know fact and plastered over the net you pay their fee and they also get a commission off the Seller in Japan, the Customs Broker they recommend and they the workshop they recommend to comply it if they don't do it them self.

If your hourly rate at work is $300 pay a Broker as 4 hours is all it takes in time at most.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72483-about-importin/#findComment-1338565
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
    • Yeah, well I was probably way underguessing the $300 figure anyway. Just multiplied a "normal" by 4 for the purposes of pointing out it's not cheap, particularly if it has to be repeated.
×
×
  • Create New...