Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I am a fresher in this forum, just joined today. I was planning to upgrade and am half thinking about a R34 GTT tiptronic. Hence had few enquiries:

- Whats the stock performance specs 0-100, 1/4 etc etc.

- Approx how much it wd cost to make it a 11-12s car.

-How upgradable the turbo is to a bigger replacement, power gain, cost.

-Pros/Cons of tiptronic.

If you could please help. I tried the search feature, but still bit confused.

Brief inputs on any of the above wd be appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/
Share on other sites

Rough guess, 6.5 seconds and 14.2. Unofficial attempt at realistic figures.

Big $ difference between 11 and 12 seconds and a couple of different ways to get there.

Turbo is almost the same as R33 (same fitting anyway) so anything that fit that will fit R34. 100's of options at all different costs.

Tiptronic is easier in traffic, cheaper to upgrade (ie a shift kit costs less than an upgraded clutch 350-1000+) goes a little slower, can't use PowerFC for ECU upgrade.

Rather than a search, perhaps a few weeks browsing will sort you out for information. I read the forums for 3 months before I bought my car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/#findComment-1336466
Share on other sites

Maybe

12.9 seconds will require 200 rwkw AT LEAST.

To get an R34 GTT at 200rwkw you will need the following.

Front Mount $1000

Power FC $1200

Boost controller $500

Fitting and tuning of all $700

Pineapples fitted $200

Fuel Pump fitted $400

That's about $4000

.THEORETICALLY. That should net a 12 second pass.

More likely with sticky rubber.

Into the 11s...... You need about 270 rwkw.

For that you need a brand name turbo ($3000 fitted) or highflow ($2000 fitted)

Cams $1200 fitted.

Retune of computer $500

Slicks or Nittos $800

That another $4500 - $5500

Into the 10s? Forget ot before you budget another $10 - $15k.

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/#findComment-1336895
Share on other sites

Manual would get a flat 6 i would think.

I just bought a 34gtt tiptronic. I guess u also

have to allow for increased drivetrain loss for

auto. I don't know what power the auto can take

apparently high temp is killer so fit a good cooler.

Tiptronic pro's: auto mode - same as any auto

tiptronic mode - good for compression slow downs,

hill climbs, its a novelty(steering wheel shifts are a

bit of a wank imho)

Cons: slower than manual to up/down shift, for me

at least (after owning for 2 weeks only) more difficult

to control than manual - sure Ill get used to it.

Manual is better apart from traffic stop starts, but

for an extra $5-6k i couldn't justify it. Esp when conversion

can be done for approx $3k.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/#findComment-1337869
Share on other sites

Thanks a lot everyone for all the inputs. Now I know more. Just planning ahead the finances I should prepare for. Looks like a big threshold credit cards required ;) . Money well spent for the R34 cause.

Also, I really just noticed the differemce between bodies of GTT and GTR (HOW could I not notice it before???)- the wide body of the GTR. THATS why they look sexier....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/#findComment-1337980
Share on other sites

Zymotic - It already has a good cooler for the transmission standard.

I actually find that possibly due to the cooler, it doesn't warm up fast enough.

You'l find that if you use the steering wheel buttons for a couple of months you'll never look back and wonder why you said it was a bit of a wank.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/#findComment-1337983
Share on other sites

Zymotic - It already has a good cooler for the transmission standard.

Good, how much power before it goes bang?

You'l find that if you use the steering wheel buttons for a couple of months you'll never look back and wonder why you said it was a bit of a wank.

Think I'm still getting used to the semi-auto type setup.

Maybe after i get used to the standard shift I'll trial the

wheel controls.

Do u use tiptronic mode for the track or drags?

Do u keep TCS on for track? (I've noticed when i give the

car a bit of stick one side of the rear seems to deaden [for

want of a better term] guess this is TCS at work, its wierd)

Had any dyno runs with your new hi flo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/#findComment-1338475
Share on other sites

Hasn't gone bang yet and I'm over 200 rwkw.

I wouldn't even bother with the standard shift.

I use tiptronic everywhere, street, track, strip.

I also turn the Traction control off as soon as I start the car every time. Actually it's been broken for a week which is fine with me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/#findComment-1338780
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...