Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thinking of replacing my hiflowed turbo to a GT35/40R 0.70 / 1.06 internally wastegated turbo.

Has anyone else done this conversion and can you advise the handling ie lag, dyno results, drivability, when boost comes on etc.

Currently do drags and circuit in SII GTS-T with intercooler, Power FC, Hiflow injectors, Z32 airflow meter, fuel pump, fuel pressure reg etc. - acheiving 302hp in third gear dyno. Would really appreciate hearing from someone who has gone through the exercise - good or bad???

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72642-gt3540r/
Share on other sites

I have been doing alot of research on this (haven't done it though) but in alot of cases, I wouldn't go for the 1.06ar exhaust housing, due to MASSIVE lag on a RB25.

I have a friend that has this turbo on his 95 supra (3.0l) and it hits full boost at 4200rpm. A guess at full boost on a rb25 would be 4500 - 5000rpm!!!

Thats way too much lag for me. I'm not an expert, but thats my opinion.

I hate lag, so I am going to eventually purchase something with a .63ar exhaust. If you are looking at big power, I'd go a .83ar exhaust.

Not sure on the Compressor size though..

SK might have an idea if he reads this thead.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72642-gt3540r/#findComment-1340855
Share on other sites

over 5k IMO

its bigger than my GT30 (4200rpm/16psi) and then your going bigger again on the Exh housing.

get a .82 and it'll be much nicer. Id even say a GT30 like mine. Its awesome for all forms of use

Hi Nismoid,

Thanks for the feedback. I was trying to keep the internal waste gate due to simplicity, cost etc. but seem to be only able to get the thing in a a/r1.06 exhaust. comp is a/r 0.7. I'll do some research on the GT30. Can you tell me your dyno result atrw and qtr mile times...much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72642-gt3540r/#findComment-1341407
Share on other sites

I have been doing alot of research on this (haven't done it though) but in alot of cases, I wouldn't go for the 1.06ar exhaust housing, due to MASSIVE lag on a RB25.

 

I have a friend that has this turbo on his 95 supra (3.0l) and it hits full boost at 4200rpm. A guess at full boost on a rb25 would be 4500 - 5000rpm!!!

 

Thats way too much lag for me. I'm not an expert, but thats my opinion.

 

I hate lag, so I am going to eventually purchase something with a .63ar exhaust. If you are looking at big power, I'd go a .83ar exhaust.

 

Not sure on the Compressor size though..

 

SK might have an idea if he reads this thead.

Thanks mafia,

I'm very concerned about lag as well... as I use the car on the circuit and need quick response as well as long legs in the straight. I want the best match for the engine capacity but am finding it very difficult to get a straight, independent answer...hence why I'd like to get feedback from anyone whose fitted an ungrade turbo and their actual results

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72642-gt3540r/#findComment-1341420
Share on other sites

so far, the all hailed shootout mode

330rwkw with a hybrid mix of fuel, not just normal PULP on 24psi

made around 270rwkw without the fuel and 17psi

and the show is on well and truly around 4200rpm-4500rpm.

Best match is the GT30 for an RB25, if you want bigger power then a GT35 is the go but it comes at a cost, and mine is quite nice on the street

Im heading for some drag this friday so i'll have a rough time/mph then

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72642-gt3540r/#findComment-1341441
Share on other sites

Stealth,

Have you considered importing a HKS GT2835ProS (270-280rwkw) or HKS 3037ProS (300-320rwkw) from japland? They are both Internal gate. hence the PRO

Form memory they are around the 2.6k mark, unsure exactly the extra tax's and crap on top. I did look in to it a while back and have since forgot.

I 'think' stamp duty is only 3% on turbo's then you pay the GST. or is it the GST first then the stamp duty on that. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72642-gt3540r/#findComment-1341453
Share on other sites

my mate and i have just finished a conversion in his vl. its an rb25 with a gt35r/1.06 rear.

the engine is standard except for tomei poncams,splitfire coils,xf throttle and fuel and computer obviously.

it is running through a vl turbo 5 spd.also a 3:45 diff ratio

the engine makes 20 psi by 4200rpm and is producing 313rwkw.

personally i would recommend the .84 rear housing and a 4:11 diff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72642-gt3540r/#findComment-1341610
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
×
×
  • Create New...