Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wanted to tell you all how angry I am that I was speeding.

Got done for speeding last night, Wellington St, near RPH at 2050 hours. 67km in a 50km zone. Two motorbike cops with a handheld laser got me from 160 metres (they were out of sight behind a parked car). They'd picked me up from quite a distance before (I think close to 500m) and the cop told me the best distance he's picked someone up from was 980m!

I'm now $100 poorer and will be getting 1 demerit point.

I chose my speed, and I guess I chose my consequences.

I'm not complaining that the cops got me, but at my own stupidity for speeding.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72670-grrr-speeding-fine/
Share on other sites

apart from a few good cops, all cops are fkin wankers.... if you dont think so then come drive you skyline around mandurah for a week. see if you can avoid getting a yellow or a fine for anything they can get you for... 100 bucks a bald tyre, blah blah blah shit like that. all imports in mandurah have the same problems...

ps. i didnt get the tyre fine.

Really depends who you get etc. But if you are over the speed limit where ever than it is your fault. No point hating cops over that. (Apparently you can argue it as there is suppost to be a 6% speedo error allowance or something incase your speedo is out)

I reckon Yellows for minor things is crap, usually they just yellow you if they don't know what the hell it is :)

They're bringing a multinova to Kalgoorlie soon. (those things are money makers) Bastards.

Really depends who you get etc. But if you are over the speed limit where ever than it is your fault. No point hating cops over that. (Apparently you can argue it as there is suppost to be a 6% speedo error allowance or something incase your speedo is out)

hmm so 6% off 107 is 100.58...... ..... whats the fine for being .58 over the limit? :whatsthat

Really depends who you get etc. But if you are over the speed limit where ever than it is your fault. No point hating cops over that. (Apparently you can argue it as there is suppost to be a 6% speedo error allowance or something incase your speedo is out)

I reckon Yellows for minor things is crap, usually they just yellow you if they don't know what the hell it is :)

They're bringing a multinova to Kalgoorlie soon. (those things are money makers) Bastards.

wonder how long till a work ute runs over the thing :aroused:

or a 200ton cat, that'd show em.

980 metres!!!! thats insane. I can usually spot a speed camera from a mile away but not that far. Wonder if my spider sense would pick up that 1 :Paranoid:

I havent been done by a multinova since i last drove grandenkos car (bout 20secs after getting in seat) i must say im reconsidering my tactics after that guy got fined 100k, pft they cant be worth that much. Couple of little whirly bits and a didgcam, bah!!!

What makes it worse is, I'd spent 30 minutes driving around trying to decide where to go to dinner that night with Avril to celebrate our 2 and a half year anniversary!

We decided northbridge instead of south perth, and now I guess I'm paying for it :)

jason, same thing happened to me a few weeks ago 64 in 50 zone, reduced to 62 in 50 zone. it was one of the more busier streets that are changed to 50 zones. anyway i was just following the 3 or so cars infront of me, doing the same speed. motorbike cop up ahead about 100m hiding behind a tree with radar gun, decides to single me out of course. anyway pull over get the $100 fine and 1 demerit point and i'm on my way. just happy he didn't check my car over and try give me a yellow.

Feel sorry for you guys. Good money gone like that.

Just checking what's the speed margin you have to pass before they fine you? Can't keep the speed constant forever, sometimes will go below, sometimes will go above.

One of my friends told me +/-2km/h is the margin...I think that's really stingy. Not really familiar with the rules here yet, but back in my home country, the margin is about +/-10km/h.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have found the problem. The wire from the switch to the HB is shorted to earth. Now you have to physically find it and replace it. It won't be the switch, although following the steps above (and yes, where you ask, that is the light switch on the RHS of the binnacle) will rule it out for sure. Or not, if perhaps the switch has melted. But there's no route to earth inside the switch, so I can't see how it would.
    • I did read your post, a few times actually.    Done. Followed this step. [Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.]   Did this partially.. now that im reading this over, i only unplugged the LED lights. [Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches.] When you are talking about the switch, you're talking about the knob thing on the right side in the drivers seat right? If so, i need to take that apart?  [Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch.] At this point are you referring to the connector by the headlights?  [If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.] Did this. I can confirm that the LED lights aren't the issue [Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.]
    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
×
×
  • Create New...