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> Originally Posted by The Mafia

> I've got

>

> FMIC

> 3inch Dump back with a hi flo cat

> PowerFC

> Boost set at 12psi

>

> 209.3 rwkw

> 420nm Torque

>

> Stock Turbo, injectors, fuel pump, engine, cams etc.

I have (rb25det series 2, 120,000 on the clock)

FMIC

PowerFC

3" dump, 3" front, hiflow cat

Boost Set at 0.80bar

172.2rwkw

Gimme your power instead :D

Was it in shootout mode? Is there any settings/numbers missing from the bottom of your dyno graph Mafia?

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> Originally Posted by The Mafia

> I've got  

>  

> FMIC

> 3inch Dump back with a hi flo cat

> PowerFC

> Boost set at 12psi

>  

> 209.3 rwkw

> 420nm Torque

>  

> Stock Turbo, injectors, fuel pump, engine, cams etc.

 

I have (rb25det series 2, 120,000 on the clock)

 

FMIC

PowerFC

3" dump, 3" front, hiflow cat

Boost Set at 0.80bar

 

172.2rwkw

 

Gimme your power instead :D  

Was it in shootout mode? Is there any settings/numbers missing from the bottom of your dyno graph Mafia?

yeah it was set to some sort of shootout mode, done on a dynodynamics dyno. Its fairly close because i have had it done on 2 different dyno's reealing much the same figures.

btw, my car has only done 88,000 genuine kms. Maybe that has something to do with it too.

oh, and simple things like this -

user posted image

Paul, Considering you have a powerfc your dyno figure is ever so slightly low.

Generally the 'average' R33 with pfc, 11psi, exhaust & fmic makes around 190rwkw, add an exhaust cam gear and it pushes you up over 200rwkw.

A really good flowing exhaust will also make just that little bit more power than the rest.

But its only a dyno figure and only really good for your self to see the figure improvement from a dead stock car then mild to wild. :)

I have seen a stock ECU'd 1995 R33 simply bolt on a fmic and exhaust that went on to make 200rwkw on 12psi. :thumbsup:

Freak that was, it went on to run a lowish 13 sec 1/4.

ive got no clue on this.. but doesnt it always have to say shootout mode on the bottom ?

My dyno print out is the same as urs tho (doesnt say shootout anywhere etc etc) . and someone was saying if it was done in shootout mode it would of got a slightly higher reading ???

shootout mode is like a software addon for the dyno isnt it ?

well while i'm not going to disagree with you my power is somewhat lower, just can't work out why. perhaps everyone else's is higher? surely that can't be right though. however mine drives bloody quick as, i reckon against mafia's car there would be nothing between the two. doesn't really do the 35rwkw difference justice however.

the bottom on the dyno graph (which is missing from mafia's) will show what settings were used in shootout mode, things such as air temp, intake temp, ramp rate etc, all of these affect the final output figure. Shootout mode is used to provide a comparitive figure on a dyno. That is the dyno will adjust the figure based on air intake temp. So that when you compare a shootout mode graph taken in winter in tassie to a shootout mode run done in summer in broome you get the same comparitive figure. The shootout mode rounds the temperature to about 25 degree's (im pretty sure). so that regardless of ambient air temp, density etc they are simulated to the same air temp. so your friend in broome on summer can't say well mine makes less power cos im in a really hot climate. The shootout mode will round the air temps of each dyno run so they are done on even "playing field". Having said that comparing a non shootout mode to a shootout mode graph is not a good comparision as one has air temp, humidity adjustment and the other is just done at ambient air temp. so as an example mine was done on a hot day and say its ambient intake temp was 38deg. then the one done is shootout mode would have been rounded down to 25deg. so the shooutmode mode graph would have made more power as the air temp "well simulated temp" is cooler and should in theory make more power

mine isn't chopped, I just looked at the sheet, and it doesn't have that bit at the botom either, which I also think is strange.

oh shit.... I forgot to mention

TOLUENE

hehehe I run a 10% mix... Thats probably why I have a higher power figure, because skylines loooove timing advances when the fuel permits.

So, here are my power mods -

Steel Turbo To AFM Pipe

Shielded Pod

Full Exhaust - Large Split Dump, High Flo Cat, Good flowing Muffler and cannon

Turbo Has no Shaft Play - We checked it

Engine Compression is good

FMIC (600x300x75) with Stock Plenum

10% Mix of Toluene and timing Advance

Apexi Power FC with hand Controller

HKS Exhaust Cam gear set at 0 Degrees (lost power when adjusted)

Carbom Canister Disconnected

No Oil Catch Can :headspin:

DNA Motorsport Bleed Valve set at 12psi.

Im making 195rwkw on a dyno dynamatics dyno at ICE performance. I guess it was in shootout mode lost my damn printout. power curve flatens out at the top.

Mods include

10.5 psi uses turbo xs ball spring type bleeder

3" front/dump pipe, 3" casco cat, HKS super drager exhaust.

Hybrid super monster intercooler

iridium plugs gapped at 0.8

SAFC tuned at ice performance

Stock airbox with K&N filter but I cant put the factory cold air feed on as the hybrid piping is in the way so its sucking hot air. Apexi pod and partitionlike the mafia's on the way though

98ron BP Ultimate

If I add more boost I feels like it actually looses power.

GTR Intercooler

HKS Super-dragger, Hi-Flo Cat, HPC coated dump pipe

rb20 wastegate actuator, bleed valve combo for 12psi

stock turbo

iridium sparkies gapped to .8mm

98 RON BP Ultimate

ex cam gear 4 degrees retard

hks pod with cold air partition

lightened flywheel & ceramic clutch

Power FC

210RWKW in Shootout Mode - and pulls like a train on boost !!

Its all in the tune - peak power is nice, but the torque is where its at..

Got the pic, but its too big to load here unfortunately...if someone can assist/host im happy to post it up..

GTR Intercooler

 HKS Super-dragger, Hi-Flo Cat, HPC coated dump pipe

 rb20 wastegate actuator, bleed valve combo for 12psi

 stock turbo

 iridium sparkies gapped to .8mm

98 RON BP Ultimate

 ex cam gear 4 degrees retard

 hks pod with cold air partition

 lightened flywheel & ceramic clutch

 Power FC

 

 210RWKW in Shootout Mode - and pulls like a train on boost !!

 

 Its all in the tune - peak power is nice, but the torque is where its at..

 

 Got the pic, but its too big to load here unfortunately...if someone can assist/host im happy to post it up..

I want to see it.

Can you email it to me?

paceys[at]gmail.com

Okay, thanks guys.

So, generally speaking, I should have about 5k set aside to make it to around the 180-190rwkw mark.

$5k? lol!

I've spent around $1k and have 195rwkw.

Mods:

Bleeder @ 13psi

Full 3" zorst (inc split dump/front pipe)

K&N panel filter in stock box

Chipped ECU

Stock turbo and coola

People may say my result is optimistic based on the mods, but I have a graph to prove it so :devfu:

IMHO people who strictly chase dyno figures are ignorant and must be careful. Dyno figures dont mean much in the sense that they cant tell you how quick the car is, or is going to be.

$5k? lol!

I've spent around $1k and have 195rwkw.

Mods:

Bleeder @ 13psi

Full 3" zorst (inc split dump/front pipe)

K&N panel filter in stock box

Chipped ECU

Stock turbo and coola

People may say my result is optimistic based on the mods, but I have a graph to prove it so :devfu:  

IMHO people who strictly chase dyno figures are ignorant and must be careful. Dyno figures dont mean much in the sense that they cant tell you how quick the car is, or is going to be.

Well, to be honest, I Wasn't chasing top power.

I was chasing torque. Thats where its at. I'm addicted to whiplash, and breaking traction. But also, Torque is what gets you good quarters...

$5k? lol!

I've spent around $1k and have 195rwkw.

Mods:

Bleeder @ 13psi

Full 3" zorst (inc split dump/front pipe)

K&N panel filter in stock box

Chipped ECU

Stock turbo and coola

People may say my result is optimistic based on the mods, but I have a graph to prove it so :devfu:  

IMHO people who strictly chase dyno figures are ignorant and must be careful. Dyno figures dont mean much in the sense that they cant tell you how quick the car is, or is going to be.

cool, Id be interested to see that graph

Hi RiggaP..

With that setup, i would expect less power on a hot day due to the stock intercooler with 13psi...

The turbo wouldnt like this long term i would suspect..

Additionally, the bleeder i daresay wouldnt hold the 13psi up the top end...

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