Jump to content
SAU Community

Spedo Drop out and engine stalling

michadoo
 Share

Recommended Posts

michadoo Collaborator

michadoo

Posted
Posted

the speedo on our s2 R33 is continuously dropping out and wont come back unless you give it a small bang on the dash. we took it to our mechanic and he hooked up some computers or something to it and said he couldnt really find any problems with why it would be cutting out, maybe just get a new one. We are also having that stalling problem where it will drop rpm drammatically until it stalls.

at first we thought the stalling was caused by the speedo dropping out and there not being any speed reading, but think it could be something more sinister

i have read the thread about the stalling problems, with the fuel pressure, but wanna know if anyone else has had any problems similar to this and if it could mainly be a wiring and electronic fault or something else.

has anyone else had this problem?

cheers

M&B

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72760-spedo-drop-out-and-engine-stalling/
Share on other sites
SRG33 Enthusiast

SRG33

Posted
Posted

Hey B&M,

I have only had my 33 since feb this year and wouldnt consider myself an expert but thought i might as well chip in my 2c worth..

At first i was getting the same stalling problem where the revs would just drop till it stalled..

I dont know if this will work in your case but the problem i found was that i was kaning it and dumping it straight into neutral.. It might just be your driving style, as was the case with me..

To do this in a N/A car is ok but it seems the 33s or just turbos in general dont like it..

So always have it in reasonably low rpm when changing gear to neutral...

Another words always put it into gear after you have kaned it and then into neutral... Hope this makes sense, but its helped me.. havent stalled it since...

Sparki_D Enthusiast

Sparki_D

Posted
Posted

Check for a boost leak, check your vaccum hoses, tell more about the behaviour of the motor, is it only at idle? or under throttle too? Standard Computer? Remeber that the stock ECU doesnt like a BOV that vents atmo, tends to cause the car to stall as well.

Skyrine-Dave Mentor

Skyrine-Dave

Posted
Posted

ok this is a very far out idea...

but if your speedo drops out and your car stalls is it possible that your gearbox loom is dodgy/broken, if your speedo drops out- that is on the gearbox loom, if your car stalls the neutral switch is on the gearbox too..

michadoo Collaborator

michadoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yea we have a turbosmart bov. we noticed the stalling only really started after we got an alarm and immoboliser installed aswell - could it be a coinsidence? doesnt stall by dropping it into neutral dont really drive like that, just stalls if you are coming up for a stop or something the rpms drop heaps quick. if you keep an eye on it you can usually tell if it is going to drop too low in that case just tap the ecellorator to bring the rpms up abit. just getting really frustrating and anoying, can be really embarrasing too!

it doesnt always stall when the spedo cuts out, the spedo can be really intermitant, we thought that the stalling may have something to do with it but cant be too sure.gear box is in good condition. maybe something with the electrics??

  • 1 month later...
caminperth Grand Master

caminperth

Posted
Posted

I'd say you have two separate problems.

Stalling like this on std BOV sounds like something is leaking somewhere. Check all piping, hoses ect.

I've got the same speedo problem, a bang on the dash seems to sort it and once it's been working for a while it doesn't drop out anymore. I've had the cluster out for closer inspection and couldn't find anything obvious, but if banging the dash fixes it, there must be a loose wire there somewhere.

If anyone finds what causes the speedo problem, please post!

nismo180 Rookie

nismo180

Posted
Posted

I've recently bought an R32 GTST and the car would stall randomly. I changed the fuel filter, spark plug and checked all hoses but that didn't fix the prob. What I then did was perform the ECU Diagnostic and and showed code 12 which is the Air Flow Meter. So I borrowed a mates AFM and the car now runs really good. It doesn't stall anymore.

Its a very simple process:

just take off the ECU from its mounting

Turn the key to ignition, but dont start the car

turn a knob on the back of the ECU anticlockwise, then clockwise again

Depending on what model you have, LED lights will flash according the the fault.

Just search on the net for instructions to do the ECU Diagnostic, and that should tell you if there is a fault .

MsG_ChRiS Community Regular

MsG_ChRiS

Posted
Posted

my r33's tacho has just stuffed up it drops out sometyms and i have to give it a lil bang on the dash...

i noticed this to after i got the immobiliser and alarm installed too!!! so mayb they stuffed some of the wires under my dash when they took whatever out or cut whatever wires?

should i just get a new dash ??? <--- how does that work do you order the new dash from nissan or something ??? wouldnt it have zero kays on it but also???

or should i take it back to the place and get them to double check what they're work???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...