Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

1988 CEFIRO

RB20DET

440CC GTR injectors

Nippon Denso 600hp fuel pump

Hybrid FMIC

Z32 AFM w/ pod

Dr-Drift ROM

Super T70 turbo ( i have a fetish for LAG)

Ext Wastegate 50mm

3" Turbo back zorst

Yet to get it tuned, and on the road!! Hoping for 222rwkw

  • 2 weeks later...

Just got the car.

Engine (RB20DET):

RB26DETT Linshed/shotpeened crank

RB26DETT Conrods

(Unknown) Pistons

Mild Camshafts

Apexi RH (500HP) Turbo

Apexi External Wastegate (set 0.6bar - can run 1.1bar)

Exhaust

HKS 'Death Mushroom' Pod

MINE's Tuned ECU

GTR 440cc Injectors

AF Fuel Pump (whining away in the background :lol: )

(Power: Enough - but unknown - Estimate... 300HP+@Wheels - 0.6Bar)

Just got the car.

Engine (RB20DET):

RB26DETT Linshed/shotpeened crank

RB26DETT Conrods

(Unknown) Pistons

Mild Camshafts

Apexi RH (500HP) Turbo

Apexi External Wastegate (set 0.6bar - can run 1.1bar)

Exhaust

HKS 'Death Mushroom' Pod

MINE's Tuned ECU

GTR 440cc Injectors

AF Fuel Pump (whining away in the background :lol: )

(Power: Enough - but unknown - Estimate... 300HP+@Wheels - 0.6Bar)

Sounds tough. I'd be careful with the Mine's ECU. They are known to be quite aggressive and not really suitable with our fuel. Put it on a dyno as soon as you can.

Sounds tough. I'd be careful with the Mine's ECU. They are known to be quite aggressive and not really suitable with our fuel. Put it on a dyno as soon as you can.

Ya, I'm looking at some tuning products atm something like an F-Con V Pro - Perhaps go the Power FC...?... still deciding.

Oh, it's a TRUST External gate as well.. not an Apex item.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

ok ceff got dyno'd / tuned today...

it has

RB20DET

HYBRID GT SPEC FMIC

CUSTOM ZORST

HKS GT2530

WALBRO FUEL PUMP

HKS FCD

APEXI POD

APEXI BOV

at around 14 - 15psi it maxed power at 225.1 rwkw... this is with standard ECU!!!! i was shocked myself i was thinking of being happy with around 180!!!

injectors - are unsure but have to chat more about it to mechanic tomorrow...

cant wait to test

do you think the injector's are larger than standard? "Boff32" is selling his 32 on sau and ns at the moment and has made similar power to yours on what he thinks is a stock ecu and inj combo

where did you get the dyno run done?

dyno was done by simon at morpowa... i know numbers are numbers, but on the same boost on the same dyno, the car only made 140rwkw with standard turbo and intercooler.... changed them over and now the increase on the same dyno is 85rwkw!!! so pretty happy...

i know numbers can be fixed, but still a decent increase!

as for injectors i'm pretty sure that the standard injectors are capable of this power, just very close to being maxed out at this power rating... (i think..lol)

thats good I use Simon as well thats were I had most of my runs in my 180 too so I was going to compare them. I just dont want to go somewhere and have them tell me there no way my 32 could reach the same fig as yours with the same mods. I might give simon a call and see if he thinks its worth running it before I get a fcd. Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...