Timing belt slack and removing harmonic balancer bolt

[benl1981]

I've removed everything in order to replace timing belt so I'm at the stage of loosening that big bolt on the harmonic balancer.

I've put it in 4th gear handbrake on. When I go to turn it anti clockwise with a big bar the crank turns a little before resisting ( like 10 degrees). Things then tighten and I might be able to loosen it though I'm afraid of snapping the belt etc.

My belt has about 10-15mm movement back and forth between the longest gap between pulleys. I can almost pull the belt off the camshaft pulleys without loosening anything it is that loose.

Just wondering whether to heave ho on it or be very careful. I just don't want to bend a valve on it while I'm trying to loosen this bolt.

Thanks

[The Dan]

if you do that whilst in gear and handbrake on, you WILL damage your gearbox. Do it by getting a breaker bar, or if you think your ratchet is strong enough - add an extension pipe to the handle, place the end of the bar UNDER the left (passenger) chassis rail and while holding the head of the ratchet in place (so that it doesn't fall off), get someone to hit the key. If you search you will also find a huge thread that already covers this and all the questions you need to know. As for the valve thing, as long as the belt is still on, the camshafts turn with the crank so you don't have to worry about bending valves.

[benl1981]

I haven't seen anyone else besides you mentioning about the damage to your gearbox from the method I mentioned - I have searched.... Wouldn't the clutch slip rather than damage your gearbox? Maybe you are right, I am just asking

I have searched and I thought this was the safest method. I really don't want my hand to be under there when someone hits the starter, even if coil is disconnected..

If the breaker bar breaks it could hit me or the car etc.

Thanks

[The Dan]

Then get a rattle gun and remove the radiator and air con rad also. Then you will be able to get it.

There is also a tool you can buy for about $45 which is designed to do the same job without the removal of all these items. You should be able to get it from repco. You will need a large hammer to operate it.

On the gearbox issue, it will damage your gearbox, trust me...don't try it.

[benl1981]

Thanks mate. I have got the radiator out.

I know a few people that have done the gearbox trick - no problems. Have you seen a gbox damaged this way? Why would it break it?

[The Dan]

I have seen a gearbox DESTROYED , not damaged, by doing it this way. I have also been told by numerous gearbox specialists of the damage that can be caused. I am a mechanic and see this stuff all the time. I witnessed another mechanic attempt the same method and all you could hear was POP and then the car would not drive again. Gearbox came out, was sent to the local gearbox shop and was told that by forcing the gearbox in that way was what caused the damage.

[benl1981]

Thanks for the advice then. I'm suprised not more people mention it. Lucky I didn't go to hard on it.

I might try the chassis rail trick then.. Should I just unlpug the big connector on top of the rocker cover that gives the electrical signa to the individual coil packs?

Then hit the starter for a split second.

[The Dan]

no need to disconnect anything. Just hit the key. you only want to use the force of the motor to crack the nut so only a split second is required. It is definately by far the best method short of a rattle gun and some times better. As long as you hold the head of the wrench on there it won't hit you in the face or come off. It is kinda frightening at first but when you have done a few hundred you get used to it. Make sure the extension is under the chassis rail and not something soft that can move. Close your eyes and brace yourself, then hit the key and she comes straight off. You also want to make sure your ratchet is strong enough otherwise it will break. A breaker bar is preferable to a ratchet.

sorry about the inbox full, try again

[benl1981]

I have a long breaker bar with a swivel head. It is a bout a metre long I would say. When I undo axle nuts (about 200Nm) I can see it flexxing which is also scary.

I hope it won't break. I might put on my welding face mask, gloves and overalls. Be a real woos.

It's safer to disconnect the ignition source though right? So it has no chance of kicking the motor over.

[The Dan]

I have a long breaker bar with a swivel head. It is a bout a metre long I would say. When I undo axle nuts (about 200Nm) I can see it flexxing which is also scary.

I hope it won't break. I might put on my welding face mask, gloves and overalls. Be a real woos.

It's safer to disconnect the ignition source though right? So it has no chance of kicking the motor over.

I suppose so. I have never needed to crank it that long but yeah, just unplug the grey plug located infront of the ignition module. It should also be attached to the same place as the small earth wire.

[benl1981]

The only thing then is doing it up to the correct torque. Could I do it with handbrake and in gear foir this? Or is the still bad for the box?

[benl1981]

How do I do up the bolt??> Will the handbrake on in 4th gear trick still damage the gearbox...

[benl1981]

I spoke to a mechanic today that does racecars and been working for 20 years. Very good one. He reckoned you wont damage the box doing the breaker bar with brake on etc. The clutch will spin before you do any damage.