Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm in Narre Warren so I figured I would head on down to Freeway Car Audio to ask about replacing all the original (and now very stuffed) factory speakers. The guy I spoke to said they can't fit 6x9" in the rear, something to do with they wont hack into the parcel shelf or metalwork underneath, fine..

For the rears he suggested Alpine SPS-170A's and for the fronts he suggested Apline SPS-171A's (split system). Original grills will be used so it will still look stock. The amp for this would be an Alpine MRP-F240.

For decent bass he suggested an Apline SWS-1242D with enclosure and Alpine MRP-M350 amp.

They'll install sound deadening material, baffles and a line converter (if necessary) and do the install for around $2200.

Is that a decent price? Does anyone have any feedback about these guys? I know they have been around for years and a guy at the Alpine stand I spoke to had just got his car back from them and was happy with the quality of work.

Opinions?

mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72907-speaker-upgrades/
Share on other sites

Supplier, Installed and Fitted at garys car radio in preston:

1 x SPR176A - Front Door Splits, Mounted in stock location with tweeter mirror mounted

1 X SPS170A - Rear Coax Speakers, in stock speaker location

2 X WS1241 - 12" Type S Subs in Boot (Sub Box)

1 X MRP-M350 - Monobloc amp for both subs

1 X MRP-F240 - Four channel amp for front splits and rears (pretty sure its this model)

1 X CDA-9807 - New head unit

- 1 x Pioneer CD-MP3550 Trade in for $250

Total price: $1840 complete, they supplied a free Alpine AI-Net Cable as well to hook up my DVD Player to the system.

After all the stereo crap I looked at and people I spoke to:

Garys Car Radio = The best, Preston store is tops, well worth the trip. I'll come down if u wanna check it out. 6x9's are crap. Get 2 x Subs in the boot, Facing outwards. Don't mount the subs facing towards the front of the car. Get a seperate amp for the front/rears and another amp for subs. Replace the head unit you have. If you don't then youll have to use line in adapters for sub output and it wont be anywhere near as good. The CDA 9807 (or whatever head unit you get) should have 4v preout for the sub output. Also your stocker head unit probably doesn't have any amp line out's so they have to hack up in-line adapters which wont be as good. If your spending $$$ then buy qualiy stuff and sell the stocker head unit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72907-speaker-upgrades/#findComment-1340206
Share on other sites

if your coming on the new members cruise next week ill show you how my setup sounds. also when your getting demo's of stereos and setups listen to original audio cd's and not burnt discs or mp3 cd's. also try and get some jazz or classical audio cd's, great for sound reprocussion tests. my setup sounds bloody awesome with original audio cd's or even tracks direct from from vinyl off my turntables at home burnt to cd audio

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72907-speaker-upgrades/#findComment-1340222
Share on other sites

Hi Paul,

That sounds like a damned good price compared to what I was quoted, especially when you consider that I am only going with a single subwoofer and i wasn't being quoted on a replacement head unit.

The only problem with Gary's Car Radio is the location, i'm in Narre Warren and Preston is a long long way, especially as i'm guessing they'll want the car for at least a whole day.

Going to have to think about this, damn, isnt anything easy anymore :cheers:

mike

Supplier, Installed and Fitted at garys car radio in preston:

1 x SPR176A - Front Door Splits, Mounted in stock location with tweeter mirror mounted

1 X SPS170A - Rear Coax Speakers, in stock speaker location

2 X WS1241 -  12" Type S Subs in Boot (Sub Box)

1 X MRP-M350 - Monobloc amp for both subs

1 X MRP-F240 - Four channel amp for front splits and rears (pretty sure its this model)

1 X CDA-9807 - New head unit

- 1 x Pioneer CD-MP3550 Trade in for $250

Total price: $1840 complete, they supplied a free Alpine AI-Net Cable as well to hook up my DVD Player to the system.  

After all the stereo crap I looked at and people I spoke to:

Garys Car Radio = The best, Preston store is tops, well worth the trip. I'll come down if u wanna check it out.  6x9's are crap. Get 2 x Subs in the boot, Facing outwards.  Don't mount the subs facing towards the front of the car.  Get a seperate amp for the front/rears and another amp for subs. Replace the head unit you have. If you don't then youll have to use line in adapters for sub output and it wont be anywhere near as good. The CDA 9807 (or whatever head unit you get) should have 4v preout for the sub output. Also your stocker head unit probably doesn't have any amp line out's so they have to hack up in-line adapters which wont be as good. If your spending $$$ then buy qualiy stuff and sell the stocker head unit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72907-speaker-upgrades/#findComment-1343986
Share on other sites

I'm still waiting to get access to the members area but once I can get in and know where and when, I should be there. Look forward to hearing your setup, as its close to what I want except i'll only go a single subby.

mike

if your coming on the new members cruise next week ill show you how my setup sounds. also when your getting demo's of stereos and setups listen to original audio cd's and not burnt discs or mp3 cd's. also try and get some jazz or classical audio cd's, great for sound reprocussion tests. my setup sounds bloody awesome with original audio cd's or even tracks direct from from vinyl off my turntables at home burnt to cd audio
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72907-speaker-upgrades/#findComment-1343994
Share on other sites

i just got a digital design setup with 12" sub, 400wrms 4ch amp, and 6.5 splits for both front and rear for $1300

thats just a single amp and sub setup with just the same loudness/quaility, maybe even better for alot cheaper

so if i were you i'd shop around a bit more before go forking out that kinda dosh

-Ruffels

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72907-speaker-upgrades/#findComment-1344096
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sag as in the windows start to slowly open themselves, or they're just slow to go up/down with engine off?
    • It looks like it needs a big worm gear drive on it to control the rotating, not a few sloppy pins!
    • As Duncan said, first there was OBD, which few cars used, then came OBD2.   Now an interesting point, OBD2 isn't even for what you want to do. OBD2 is for emissions testing. There is some sensor data on OBD2, but it's up to the manufacturer what they're putting on it. Most scan tools operate on UDS, which like OBD2 is a standard built on-top of CAN. UDS specifies how to structure a message, what very limited things mean such as "read memory address" but it does not specify what is stored in which memory address, that is all up to the manufacturer. You either a scan tool compatible with that vehicle, or to know how to reverse engineer all the data, which can take a VERY long time and a lot of vehicles to get it right. Oh and then the manufacturer does a firmware update and changes what's where... Ask me how I know that as fact Oh, and by the time you've got the scan tool that supports all the manufacturers stuff, well, you're back at "But a consult cable and the Nissan software" The main difference being most manufacturers software these days works with the same hardware readers, as the readers are built to support J2534 which is another standard for how the PC communicates with the tool to make it do specific things on the car...
    • Rotisserie is fully assembled apart from centre connector which obviously isn't required until the car is on it. It packs away fairly neatly and doesn't take up too much room. (Now that I actually have some room after my clean up!) Overall very happy with the quality of it.  Assembly was a piece of piss.  The only thing I didn't like was that the pins that lock the rotation lock wheels in place were a bit of a dick in a bucket scenario. It allowed the arms to rotate a significant amount even when locked in place.  To fix that i measured up the hole and went and grabbed a couple of 18mm fully threaded bolts and a thread tap to suit. I ran the tap through top and bottom so it was threaded both ends.  Then just threaded the bolt through both sides.  It has made a massive difference which hopefully you can tell in the before and after video how much difference it made. 20250207_161431.mp4   20250207_161431.mp4 Hopefully back working on the car over the next few weeks.   20250207_162801.mp4
    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
×
×
  • Create New...