Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for those who were talking about the ADVAN Neovas... how have you found the wear? Do they last long? The reason I'm buying tyres however, is because I need some for compliance. Do you know if they the DOT or E4 marking on them (means they are ADR approved I believe).

:rofl:

Do you know if they the DOT or E4 marking on them (means they are ADR approved I believe).

Technically it doesn't.

DOT stands for "Department of Transport", which is the US government body that covers road usage.

E4 designates its ECE Regulation compliance, which is Europe's design rules.

The Euro and American standards meet or exceed the ADRs, and Australia's too much of a backwater for big tyre companies to bother tooling up to stamp our compliance logo onto their tyres. So while, in practice, DOT and E4 tyres are Australian road legal their actual meaning has nothing to do with Australia, and they haven't necessarily been tested and certified by an Australian regulatory body.

silverstone 235/45R17

wet 0

dry 2

value ?

these tyers are a death trap you cant go above 80 kmh in the wet very taily

i think i will buy hankooks next week they seem to be geting good reveiws and pilots are hard to get up here dont know why

thanks for clearing that one up scathing. I just bought 4 Bridgestone Grid II's 205/55R16 for $100 each, they were second hand and still have the spikey things.. Was good value so I got them. Has anybody tried the Grid II's before?

just bought some TOYO TP-G's.

as i left the tyre place they spun in first realy early and thats comared to falken ZE326's

im a bit concerned when it rains up here it pisses down

when tyres are brand new they are all slippery due to the oily stuff thats on them. usually after about 200 or 300kms they will get a lot grippier so dont worry yet :P

by the way, the Grid II's I bought are made in japan, the guy at the tyre shop said that the jap made ones were better than the aussie made ones.. but thats probably bs. Does anyone actually know if they are better? the only way that I could see them being better is if perhaps the compounds were different but I doubt that somehow...

  • 2 weeks later...
Guys update on the Hankook Ventus K104's???

What prices did u pay 16" ppl and 17" ppl, im not sure what size rims my skyline will b coming from japan with.

Thanks.

Paradizzle.

Its been almost 2 years since I had the Hankook K104s put on all 4 wheels and the rears have finally gone bald. All up, I'd say that they are the best bang for buck tyre that I've ever used.

Wet 8/10

Dry 9/10

I originally purchased them for $200 each in ACT from Tyrepower. Don't know how much they go for now. I'm now looking for new K104s in Adelaide, suggestions anyone.

  • 2 weeks later...

last week i put some new TOYO T1-Rs (255/40/17) on the rear of my car, i went for a 450km drive on friday night, and i cant report back that now the car sticks to road like glue!!!

my previous rear tyres were worn and had gone hard and very slippery, and either way in comparison with any other tyre i have used, the T1-Rs are by far the best.

the grip is insane, it is hard to get sideways at all even in 1st gear!!! as an example, going around wide hairpins with my previous tyres i would have exited at around 60km/h, with the T1-Rs i left the corner going around 80!!!! and second gear corners have become third gear corners!!

and this is all with falken 326's on the front, only the rears changed!

they are also quieter than my old yokahamas(read below) and have a softer ride.

only strange thing is, now i can feel the hicas and with the old tyres i didnt. it puts me off a lot, when u turn in it feels like the rear tyre's sidewalls turn to jelly for a split second!!!!!

a friend driving behind even said he saw it every time i turned in he said the car looked like it had driven over a patch of sand.

so

TOYO T1-R

dry: 9/10 (dont think you could get much better in a proper road tyre)

wet: have not tried yet, supposed to be good

other tyres in comparison

FALKEN ZIEX ZE-326

dry: 3/10

wet: 3/10

PIRELLI P6000

dry: 5/10

wet: 7/10

KELLY CHARGERS

dry: -100/10

wet: -200/10

(never get these tyres, for your own safety, maybe good for long burnouts though)

YOKAHAMA GRAND PRIX MR(something)

tyres were worn out and hard so hard to give judgement as new. but in the state they were in, they were crap!!

dry: 1/10

wet: 1/10

TOYO TRAMPIO

have only driven on friends cars, but very good in the dry

dry: 7/10

wet: have not tried

Question that keeps coming into mind whilst reading all this, especially since some of you seem to go through expensive tyres like its nothing, is how long do your tyres last? Having imported our GTR from Japan recently, didn't realise that the back wheels were slightly wider than the front. Think she was used for drift racing as the wear on the tread is on the inside.

But anyway!! Recently priced up some new tyres (which were fine when she left Japan, but since she had to sit in storage on the docks for two months I think some lovely person burned all the tread down to the wire) and for cheap ones it was $250, and the top of the range at Bridgestone were $460. Keeping in mind this is from Mount Gambier (lower south east south australia). So, is it better to get some cheap tyres and see how they go, or do the more top of the line tyres (for wet/dry conditions, and rated above 110km/hr) which might last longer and handle much better?

it is normal for the tyres to wear more on the inside on a gtr, so dont worry about that.

make sure the outside diameter of the tyres is exactly the same front and rear otherwise you will have problems with the handling. this is why usually with gtrs people get the same width and diameter wheels/tyres front and back.

with a gtr even with cheap tyres you will be ok for straight line grip, but for braking and cornering good tyres make a huge difference.

depends how much you value braking and cornering, especially in the wet. with the type of performance u get from a gtr i would not put cheap tyres on.

but cheap is cheaper than 250 so im assuming u mean decent tyres, what brand model and size were u quoted on?

on the Merc i use Toyo T1-R's, used to have Falken 512's...they were shit, T1R's r far better, Semi slick for the Merc is the D01 Dunlop...didn't like this tyre much, too unsettled even with the lack of power.

On the Skyline im using the Toyo RA1, and hands down, the best gripping tyre i have ever come across...ever...like liquid nails, the car will not budge, around bottom sweeper at Eastern Creek at roughly 180 and the car doesnt even feel unsettled! HIGHLY RECCOMMENDED!

Its been almost 2 years since I had the Hankook K104s put on all 4 wheels and the rears have finally gone bald.  All up, I'd say that they are the best bang for buck tyre that I've ever used. 

Wet 8/10

Dry 9/10

I originally purchased them for $200 each in ACT from Tyrepower.  Don't know how much they go for now.  I'm now looking for new K104s in Adelaide, suggestions anyone.

I bought mine from Tyrepower Blackwood for $250 ea. 255/40/17. Very happy with them.

For a GOOD survey on tyres available on the market, visit this;

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/index.jsp

Keep in mind not all th emodels are applicable here, ie Bridgestone's. The tyres you should sus out are the summer models.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...