Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PSI_GTSII, I think you'll be happy with them. We just got results from the QLD Challenge - we were 3rd outright in Speed classification on the 595SS, with everyone else up the pointy end on semi-slicks. We made a bit of a mistake on one of the stages too, out on the grass/dirt on the outside of a hairpin, which would have cost a few seconds, and considering we were 2 seconds behind 2nd place that looks like it cost us a place. I'm pretty happy with the results for normal road tyres.

Excellent result, you've gotta be happy with that :laugh:

I was going to go the SS's but thought I'd always be thinking what if i'd bought the RS's......

So since the other half had given the go ahead I thought i'd seize the opertunity (since baby is on way and if I dont act now i'll never get em!)

Was going to enter WRXOC Track day at Collie on the 16 September but I think this is full already so looks like first test will be Track night @ Barbegello on the 28th...won this last time around (61 seconds dead) on bald import tyres, so should be good comparison.

emmmm, see i can get 275 35 R18 all around, and i dont think i will have much traction issues even with nexen....

for the same price, i can get 225 all around from bridgestone, and then i would have problems with traction.......

nope thats not true.....a good 225 *can* give you better traction than a bad 275 :)

nope thats not true.....a good 225 *can* give you better traction than a bad 275 :P

that is so true, a bad tyre in no matter what size will not be as a good tyre several sizes smaller, but why worry about telling people that, all they ever seem to wanna do is save money, and they will buy the tyre that is $2 cheaper because they think they are saving money, but the quality of the one $2 more is prolly twice as good.

I stated my opinion on Nexens and Sava's and if people wish to ignore that opinion it is there choice, but if i was shopping for tyres on a car that I valued and drove a little hard, the last thing i would do is get something that more than 1 person has said something bad about.

that is so true, a bad tyre in no matter what size will not be as a good tyre several sizes smaller, but why worry about telling people that, all they ever seem to wanna do is save money, and they will buy the tyre that is $2 cheaper because they think they are saving money, but the quality of the one $2 more is prolly twice as good.

I stated my opinion on Nexens and Sava's and if people wish to ignore that opinion it is there choice, but if i was shopping for tyres on a car that I valued and drove a little hard, the last thing i would do is get something that more than 1 person has said something bad about.

why did you have to take offence????? thanx for your opinion, and i was asking another question, as simple as that.

I was told the nexen has silicon compound tyres, and thats why i thought they were all right.

btw, we are not talking about 2 dollars difference here, lets try 400 difference for each tyre??? i do not want to spend well over 2000 for a set of tyres..............put yourself in the position, what would u do??

and i do know a certain GTR which is putting around 400AWHP running on 245 nankangs (which is supposed to be shit right?), and he does not have much traction issues at all.....

Edited by frankxinyu

hi,

i just got a new set of wheels and just wondering if my tyre profiles are right. i got a 235/40 R18 for the front and 265/35 R18 for the rear. i was just thinking as my rear tyres looks smaller than my front and will these different profiles affect the overall handling and ride as they are different in diameter..

My tyres are Nankang NS-II... although not fantastic but they are quite value for money as grip is pretty good, not sure for wet weather.

why did you have to take offence????? thanx for your opinion, and i was asking another question, as simple as that.

I was told the nexen has silicon compound tyres, and thats why i thought they were all right.

btw, we are not talking about 2 dollars difference here, lets try 400 difference for each tyre??? i do not want to spend well over 2000 for a set of tyres..............put yourself in the position, what would u do??

and i do know a certain GTR which is putting around 400AWHP running on 245 nankangs (which is supposed to be shit right?), and he does not have much traction issues at all.....

Hey only offered advice, and My main car is a VE SV6 commodore, and it is running 255 55 18's factory, and they retrail at around $550 a tyre, and there is no cheaper brands in that size, so i do know how you feel, but as i said, only advice, get the nexens, dont mean nothing to me.

and your certain GTR with 400 AWHP is running nankangs not nexens.

Quick update on mine.

Dunlop SP9000s 215/45/17s on the front. Really nice tyre. Quite, good ride, awesome in the wet, awesome in the dry. Just a wee bit exxy at $330 each in the above size.

Dunlop SP Sport Maxx 235/45/17s on the rear. Also a really nice tyre, quite, good ride again, really good in the wet (ie 2nd gear at 4000rpm plant foot instant boost no wheel spin AT ALL in the cold and wet) quite nice in the dry. Fair bit cheaper at $260each in the above size.

That said I still rather the SP9000s and I would have got them for the rear but at over $350 each with a 4 week wait, just wasnt going to happen. I think the SP Sport Maxx are a nice compromise. They are better than the Brig G3s I've had on previously.

And to say $2k is too much for tyres, I dont mean to sound offencive, but $400 diff a tyre... dude thats less than half. I paid almost the money you would be spending on 4x 18inch rubber for 2x my 17s. At least try and find a compromise there somewhere. Thats on the verg of dangerous. Is your life your talking about.

And to say $2k is too much for tyres, I dont mean to sound offencive, but $400 diff a tyre... dude thats less than half. I paid almost the money you would be spending on 4x 18inch rubber for 2x my 17s. At least try and find a compromise there somewhere. Thats on the verg of dangerous. Is your life your talking about.

My thoughts too, I recond I can get retreats for about the same price as a nexen, and they will do the same job.

My thoughts too, I recond I can get retreats for about the same price as a nexen, and they will do the same job.

I wouldnt go that far... I dont think a nexen would delaminate at 120kmh :P

That said I still rather the SP9000s and I would have got them for the rear but at over $350 each with a 4 week wait, just wasnt going to happen. I think the SP Sport Maxx are a nice compromise. They are better than the

Hey mate, the sp sport maxxs are the updated replacement for the sp9000s so are meant to be the better new tyre, so saying they are not as good as sp9000s doesnt make too much sense! also ive noticed lately eveywhere was discounting the sp9000s heavily i assumed because the replacement model (maxxs) coming in.

About the nexens, true they are a cheaper tire, but money doesnt always buy quality in tyres, yes they are a silica compound tyre and most people that try them out find them to be great value for money, from feedback they are alot better then any tyre in the similar price range and higher, they wear out even, minimal road noise and you still get great performance out of them...

About the nexens, true they are a cheaper tire, but money doesnt always buy quality in tyres, yes they are a silica compound tyre and most people that try them out find them to be great value for money, from feedback they are alot better then any tyre in the similar price range and higher, they wear out even, minimal road noise and you still get great performance out of them...

exactly what i was told. oh well, it doesnt matter any more.

I wouldnt go that far... I dont think a nexen would delaminate at 120kmh :P

Yeah spose your right there, seen some nasty shit with retreads, but when i ran retreads once, they never peeled. just vibrated everywhere i went. got sick of balancing my wheels every 2 weeks. Put some real tyres on there, and they didnt vibrate again.

Hello,

Have run 245/45/17 Hankook 104's on my GTR.

Have changed my rims and now run 275/35/18 Hangkook 104's

With WORK XD9 18 by 10's in gunmetal

Hankook have just released there 107's but expect to pay $500 per corner.

Anyway 8000km on first set has seen almost no wear(rims are for sale with tyres)

Wet- 8

Dry- 9

Price - 10

Y rated

The maxima runs A539's by yokohama , not much driving done on this set approx.15000kms

Still good as new.

Wet- 9

dry- 8

price- 10

I had purchased them on sale 225/55/15 for $120 a corner 2 years ago

It is amazing to see how much tyres have increased in price over this thread.

Oil prices and steel prices,including some hefty commisions are being made.

We should all organise a group buy for tyres,pick a brand ,pick 4 to 5 sizes and organise the buy.

post-29124-1157634453.jpg

Quick update on mine.

Dunlop SP9000s 215/45/17s on the front. Really nice tyre. Quite, good ride, awesome in the wet, awesome in the dry. Just a wee bit exxy at $330 each in the above size.

Dunlop SP Sport Maxx 235/45/17s on the rear. Also a really nice tyre, quite, good ride again, really good in the wet (ie 2nd gear at 4000rpm plant foot instant boost no wheel spin AT ALL in the cold and wet) quite nice in the dry. Fair bit cheaper at $260each in the above size.

That said I still rather the SP9000s and I would have got them for the rear but at over $350 each with a 4 week wait, just wasnt going to happen. I think the SP Sport Maxx are a nice compromise. They are better than the Brig G3s I've had on previously.

And to say $2k is too much for tyres, I dont mean to sound offencive, but $400 diff a tyre... dude thats less than half. I paid almost the money you would be spending on 4x 18inch rubber for 2x my 17s. At least try and find a compromise there somewhere. Thats on the verg of dangerous. Is your life your talking about.

Further to siksII's comments I went to get new tyres with a friend and bought SP9000's for the front 235/45/17 and Dunlop Sport Maxx's for the rear 255/40/17 and to me the sport maxx's are definitely a better tyre. The wheels tyre test used the sp9000 as a control tyre a couple of years ago and it got destroyed by almost everything. The Sport maxx's were in the recent tyre test and did very well. They came first or second.

Next time you buy tyres go to eagle tyres at Granville you will save a motsa. Friend paid:

SP9000's 235/45/17- $200

Sport Maxx's 255/40/17- $240

Duncan- I have to retreat on my campaign against the sp9000's. I now have them on the front on some 17's with 235 on the front and they are very impressive. Guess the aspect ratio of the standard rims combined with a lack of width contributed to the horrible handling.

I have not changed the suspension at all and it is very nice. Turn in is sharper and there is now actually grip!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...