Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car: 1993 R33 GTST

Basic bolt on mods, about 180rwkw

Maxxis MA-V1

Size: 225/40/18

Dry: C+

Wet: E

Value D

Cheapo tyres that came bundled with my China spec Wheels, does ok in the dry as long as you aren't pushing it 10/10. However once in the wet (or any hint of rain on the road) then forget about it, I get wheel spin (followed by the back end trying to step out) out when taking off at the lights even with just ~20% throttle and not on boost (as verified by my SAFC 2 readout).

Even my dad (who drives with a grandpa foot) complained how there was no traction when he drove the car while his diesel 4x4 was getting serviced.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Are you talking about Dunlop Direzza Z2 Star Spec ? If so, were they second hand at that price ?

DUNLOP DIREZZA STAR SPEC V2

CAR-R32 GTR

use these for auto-x days only, great cheater R compound tire. increased my times 3 seconds over my daily dunlop sr sports.

havent had the chance to use them in the wet yet but dry grip is incredible for the price and the fact that it will keep you in the stock class if you want to.

paid 650 for all 4.

no grip issues in any gear, car just has straight pipes and athe restrictor pill pulled. used on stock wheels as well.

held the fastest time of the day for 3 months straight, class includes multiple STI's, john cooper works minis, 240sx, etc.

all in all i highly reccomend the tire for racing and some people claim 20k miles out of them for daily duty as well

Can now review the kenda kr20a tyre for street use with 350kw rwd

There a 235 45 17 there foot print is more like 243

They have a nice amount of grip instead of 1st and second being useles ass before they spin and power through it makes for whole different feel to the car.there corner grip feels really good nice solid sidwalls

For a 150 dollar tyre i rate them above 123 good rides nakang and in ball park if not better then rsr

currently have Forgiatos on my daily in 235/35/19 and 265/30/19. el cheapo tyre. grip: not bad but i havent really pushed them, wet grip is not to bad either. road noise is terrible.

cant expect much for a $100~ tyre. plenty of meat on them. im positive these would be great for skids lol

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys I've been searching for info around SAU and online on Kumho KU36 for street use and the opinions seem really mixed - If you've run these on the street how were they?

Can you drive them cautiously at freeway speeds in the rain (not bucketing) without fearing for your life?

I like the idea of the grip and the car is a weekender so tyre wear is less of an issue, however I do need to drive in the rain occasionally.

It sounds like the KU36 might be discontinued so won't be the latest tech but I might be able to get a decent deal on a set...

For the price do yourself a favour and get some handbook rs3's

I agree, however this is for a replacement set for my Goodyear Eagle F1 A2's that are starting to crack again. Unfortunately the supplier don't carry Hankook.

Unless you're getting the KU36 for $100, get the RS-3.

Theory is that I would get them as a no cost replacement to my current tyres but sounds like it's a no go.

I might look at getting another brand, see if I can offload them and get some rs3's instead. I know it's a superior tyre.

300rwkw R34

Tyres- Achilles ATR Sport 2.

Size -235/35/18

Dry - 4/10, wheelspins 1st, 2nd easy, bit of 3rd sometimes on high boost

Wet - 2/10, never cane it in wet but spins on wet hill stop & go if not riding clutch.

100% daily driver

Now looking for a pair of 265/35/18 (9.5 rim) for rears, either hankook rs3 or 595rsr.

Where to get these cheap in Sydney? In ebay the rs3 is $250 a corner and the 595rsr $189. Decisions decisions..

Edited by rondofj

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...