Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

5 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

So I've had the RS4's on for about 2,000km now. I really love them, they are "pull the painted surface off the cement" levels of sticky. 

Small problem though, I'm going through them at a rate of 1mm of tread depth per 1,000km. This is the same wear rate I was getting with the 120 treadwear NS2R tyres (however I like the RS4 more then the NS2R). 

I'm looking for recommendations. I don't know if this tyre exists, ideally I'd like 15,000 to 20,000km from the tyre (keeping in mind RS4 is on track to give me about 8,000km) while still having acceptable levels of grip. I don't expect to be able to hook up 350kw and still get this mileage, really what I'd like is to have similar levels of turn in/responsive steering input when compared with the RS4. 

I'm kinda thinking maybe I should try something like Pilot Sport 5? Dunno. 17 inch rims also limits the choices a bit too. 

 

RIP paint.jpg

I recently got 15,000km from my RS4's! And got a new set recently. By recently, it... was just over a year ago now. Shut up, I have reasons as to why these tyres are still near new.

Anyway with regards to the previous ones, pressure them up. Drive them around gently on the street at ~36 psi and they do tend to last longer. I don't know how many track days I had them for, I want to say a couple but obviously that varies a significant amount for a lot of variables.

A friend got 35,000-40,000KM out of his AD08R (!??!?!?!) and his tip was to raise the pressures on them for road driving which helped in my case, but obviously the other big factor is driving with the fuel economy mindset of someone who runs higher pressures in your tyres too.

I have RS4's on the commodore, around 15k Km on them and they still have plenty of tread

In saying this my alignment settings are purely street and the car mainly sees Hwy cruising (Bogan Cruise Ship)

I have run RS4's on heaps of my cars and rate the highly for value for money IRT grip and life

I wanted RS4's for the MX5, but, the sizing I wanted wasn't available when I needed them, so I got Pilot Sport 5's

I feel the PS5's are quieter and better in the wet and cold than RS4's, but the RS4's win in the dry, as expected from a tyre with a lower tread wear

7 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

235/45-17 were 320ea

That looks like a really good price. I didn't call around, so I was relying on this for pricing - 

https://www.beaurepaires.com.au/tyres/yokohama/yokohama-advan-neova-ad09

1 hour ago, The Bogan said:

I got Pilot Sport 5's

Have you put many K's on them? Any chance you'd be able to estimate how many K's you'll get out of them? 

7 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

driving with the fuel economy mindset

I suppose this is the big difference, if I'm taking the skyline out it's for a fun drive and fuel economy / preserving the tyres are not really front of mind lol. I had read so much on other forums as well where people were saying how long lasting the RS4's were on track that I think my expectations were probably just set to high. 

3 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

That looks like a really good price. I didn't call around, so I was relying on this for pricing - 

https://www.beaurepaires.com.au/tyres/yokohama/yokohama-advan-neova-ad09

Have you put many K's on them? Any chance you'd be able to estimate how many K's you'll get out of them? 

I suppose this is the big difference, if I'm taking the skyline out it's for a fun drive and fuel economy / preserving the tyres are not really front of mind lol. I had read so much on other forums as well where people were saying how long lasting the RS4's were on track that I think my expectations were probably just set to high. 

Only about 500 km on them at this stage with an unknown alignment, it is getting an alignment over the next day or so after fitting some new suspension, I'll see how it feels and wears over the next few thousand km

Recommended for NC with street rubber:

Front

Caster: 5.0°

Camber: -1.0°

Total Toe-in: 1.5mm

Rear

Camber: -1.5°

Total Toe-in: 1.5mm

  • 5 months later...
On 10/07/2024 at 7:39 AM, Murray_Calavera said:

That looks like a really good price. I didn't call around, so I was relying on this for pricing - 

https://www.beaurepaires.com.au/tyres/yokohama/yokohama-advan-neova-ad09

Have you put many K's on them? Any chance you'd be able to estimate how many K's you'll get out of them? 

I suppose this is the big difference, if I'm taking the skyline out it's for a fun drive and fuel economy / preserving the tyres are not really front of mind lol. I had read so much on other forums as well where people were saying how long lasting the RS4's were on track that I think my expectations were probably just set to high. 

Done about 5k Km on the PS5's now, excellent street tyres, great in the dry, and the wet, seem to be wearing very well, I haven't measured tread depth, but it looks like minimal wear, I also had a different alignment done about 1500km ago, 

From looking at the tread wear, which is really only minimal, the alignment changes were based off how the tread looked, and how it felt throwing it around, the changes have shown great results

215/45 17 at 32 psi

Front

Caster: 5.5°

Camber: -1.5°

Toe: 0.0mm

Rear

Camber: -1.0°

Total Toe-in: 1.5mm

I actually prefer PS5's now over the RS4's, as the PS5's are much better in the wet IMO, and as the MX5 gets driven in all weather conditions doing daily duties, hwy trips, and blasts in the mountains, wet weather grip is high on my priority list

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...