Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have tried to search mutliple sites for any answers on the following question, but all came up negative :)

Anyways, purchased a dual stage boost controller second hand, it just included the controller and no other wiring of T piece, but i have hooked it all up and included the rocket switch in my cabin and changed all the two dials (turned them up all the way) and i still cannot change my boost setting.

Will include some pics of my setup later tonite but just wondering if anyone has installed one of these and have had this successfully working as i cant seem to get it to work at all

Basically i have hooked up cut the vacuum hose between the nipple of the inlet pipe coming off the cooler and the hose connecting to the acutator. (this is the only hose i can find) and put a plastic T piece in there and run that to the boost controller.

The boost controller only has one nipple so that i can put a hose onto it, which seems strange.

I can only think of a couple of things that could be incorrect.

a) Hoses are incorrect somehow.

B) The plastic T piece is incorrect (The turbosmart one has a arrow on it and could have a restrictor inside maybe).

c) ......

The boost controller works fine cause when touching the wires together on the rocket switch it will click on and off so i know this works fine.

But can anyone help me with the setup on this.

Have tried to search mutliple sites for any answers on the following question, but all came up negative :thumbsup:

Anyways, purchased a dual stage boost controller second hand, it just included the controller and no other wiring of T piece, but i have hooked it all up and included the rocket switch in my cabin and changed all the two dials (turned them up all the way) and i still cannot change my boost setting.

Will include some pics of my setup later tonite but just wondering if anyone has installed one of these and have had this successfully working as i cant seem to get it to work at all

Basically i have hooked up cut the vacuum hose between the nipple of the inlet pipe coming off the cooler and the hose connecting to the acutator. (this is the only hose i can find) and put a plastic T piece in there and run that to the boost controller.

The boost controller only has one nipple so that i can put a hose onto it, which seems strange.

I can only think of a couple of things that could be incorrect.

a) Hoses are incorrect somehow.

B) The plastic T piece is incorrect (The turbosmart one has a arrow on it and could have a restrictor inside maybe).

c) ......

The boost controller works fine cause when touching the wires together on the rocket switch it will click on and off so i know this works fine.

But can anyone help me with the setup on this.

dude! I dont know how much of a help ill be with this but I had a dual stage with a similar prob on my 34 - didnt seem to have any boost but occasionally if I flattened it the boost would kick in (wasnt stable though)

Turned out there was 3 hoses going to the stock one - the actuator part was ok but there was another hose (dont know which one sorry) that was connected that shouldnt have been, and it wasnt blocked off when it should have been.. a mate looked at it for 2 secs and connected the other one, blocked the unused one off and it was perfect after that??

dunno if its any help? sorry if it isnt!!!!

You need the T-peice.It has a small hole in it which you need so when you bleed off the air to raise boost.That T-peice is also gated for faster spool up.I had major spike probs with my single stage!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...