Camber Kit Only? Or Full Setup?

[eXc]

Hey guys,

I recently bought my r32 4dr gtst. They have lowered it (HKS springs) and as a result it has huge negative camber resulting in huge tyre wear on the inner edge.

So I need to correct this. I have taken it to a tyre place and they confirmed that a toe in/out will not help, it needs a camber adjustment.

I was looking at the Whiteline camber adjustment kits - KCA347 for rear ($132ex) and KCA336 for front ($290ex) So I am looking at around $500 to get this setup.

Is this the best solution for me? Would I be better off looking at some second hand (or cheap new)coil overs with adjustable camber tops? Or don't they exist for skylines?

My main purpose for the car is street (not racing...just 'normal' fast driving I guess you'd say) However I do plan to get into drift and have a go, if I go well at it, I will more seriously consider competing as opposed to just having a go.

My main concern is the camber at the moment, as it is wearing the fronts noticbly after about 3000kms. The rears were no good when i got them, but they are clearly wearing the wrong way aswell.

If I buy the whiteline camber kit, is it going to be a 'waste' later on if I get other things (coil overs/caster kit etc) or will it be something I'd want anyways?

The other option is I get some standard springs and put them in until I decide if I am going to drift or not.

Cheers

Chris

[eXc]

Just looking at those kits I said

KCA347 for rear ($132ex)

KCA336 for front ($290ex)

They are for 90-93 R32 GTS GTS-4 GTR

I would assume they would fit an 89? Nothing changed did it?

[Sydneykid]

Hi eXc, R32/33/34 Skylines are double wishbone, so they don't have struts and so strut tops wouldn't adjust the camber anyway. The camber bushes go in the upper control arms.

I would suggest adding a caster kit, as it makes a big difference to turn in and straight line stability.

You didn't post up the alignment settings, it is unusual for an R32 to need camber bushes in the front, unless it is lowered too far. On the other hand, the rear generally needs at least one camber kit (plus the standard adjusters) even at a sensible height. If it is rediculously low it might need 2 kits in the rear (inner and outer upper control arm bushes).

Hope that was of some help:cheers:

[Duncan]

Just looking at those kits I said

KCA347 for rear ($132ex)  

KCA336 for front ($290ex)

They are for 90-93 R32 GTS GTS-4 GTR

I would assume they would fit an 89? Nothing changed did it?

You should have a look at the price of the Noltec bushes too

www.noltec.com.au

[eXc]

SK, You said the "rear generally needs at least one camber kit (plus the standard adjusters)"

So there is standard adjusters? The workshop nor myself could see any adjusters?

I didn't post up the alignment settings as I didn't get a copy of them. I forgot to ask I'll have to go get it done again.

So the camber bushes are adjustable? Does anyone have a link to a site that shows me how all this works? I havn't had anything to do with suspension really. The camber tops makes sense to me, but I don't understand the bushes being adjustable?

Thanks

Chris

[Duncan]

Basically the bolt doesn't go through the center of the bush. So by turning the centre one way you get more camber, and the other way less.

Putting in 2 kits is just a case of putting them at both ends of the control arm, so if 1 bush gives you 2o adjustment, the 2 will give you 4o

[eXc]

Duncan - Ahhh now it makes sense, thanks.

So a camber kit for a 32 is just bushes then? Is there any reason to go, say, Whiteline over noltec over whatever is the cheapest available?

How difficult are the to adjust?

[eXc]

Hey again guys, I got another reading today from pedders. This is what it came out with.

Front

--------

camber = left = -2.08 right = -1.49

Castor = left 5.06 right 6.17

Toe = 0

------

Rear

-------

Camber = left -2.29 right -1.49

Toe = left 0 right -0.8 out

What they are reccomeneding is

Front

Camber Adjusters (bushes) $195

Castor Adjusters (bushes) $121

Rear

Camber Adjusters (bushes) $245

Labour $215 + $60 wheel alignment

Comments advice please? Can you get control rods as opposed to bushes so I get more control over the settings? Or are bushes the go?

Cheers

Chris

[eXc]

BUMP

Can anyone tell me what settings I should be aiming for?

[Sydneykid]

Hey again guys, I got another reading today from pedders. This is what it came out with.

Front

--------

camber = left = -2.08   right = -1.49

Castor = left  5.06    right   6.17

Toe = 0

------

Rear  

-------

Camber = left -2.29    right -1.49

Toe = left 0 right -0.8 out

What they are reccomeneding is

Front  

Camber Adjusters (bushes) $195

Castor Adjusters (bushes) $121

Rear

Camber Adjusters (bushes) $245

Labour $215 + $60 wheel alignment

Comments advice please?  Can you get control rods as opposed to bushes so I get more control over the settings? Or are bushes the go?

Cheers

Chris

Hi Chris, the maximum caster you can get is the target. Maybe a little more on the left than the right to allow for camber of the road. For a road car I would set the front camber at 1 degree negative and the rear camber at 0.5 degree negative. Front toe at zero is OK, I would have the resr slightly toe in, say 1 mm each side.

Hope that helps:cheers:

[eXc]

Hi Chris, the maximum caster you can get is the target.  Maybe a little more on the left than the right to allow for camber of the road.  For a road car I would set the front camber at 1 degree negative and the rear camber at 0.5 degree negative.  Front toe at zero is OK, I would have the resr slightly toe in, say 1 mm each side.

Hope that helps:cheers:

Thanks SK. It's a fair way out then. I'll have to check out the whitline products again, I might need to run 2 lots of bushes!

Has anyone had experience with Pedders products? Do I use them, or should I buy noltec/whiteline and just have someone install/setup?

Cheers

Chris

[Trust33]

Sorry for the thread hijack.

I was looking at the whiteline catalouge.

so on a r33 front two camber adjusters would/could be used also?

And 1 set on the rear?

Pretty much do you get everything needed for the suspension setup with the HANDLING PACK?Considering i allready have coil-overs.

Also what is better for the front and rear sway bars! 24mm or 22mm.Especially when it will see a track day or 2.I would think the thicker the better but i have read mixed emotions on this.

What type of bushes come with the kit nolethane?

[Sydneykid]

Sorry for the thread hijack.

I was looking at the whiteline catalouge.

so on a r33 front two camber adjusters would/could be used also?

And 1 set on the rear?

Pretty much do you get everything needed for the suspension setup with the HANDLING PACK?Considering i allready have coil-overs.

Also what is better for the front and rear sway bars! 24mm or 22mm.Especially when it will see a track day or 2.I would think the thicker the better but i have read mixed emotions on this.

What type of bushes come with the kit nolethane?

I have never seen two camber kits used on the front. The car would be so low its sump would be in China.

Handling Pack is a good bang for buck choice.

The material is polyurethane, Nolathane is a brand name.

Stabiliser bars for track use.........I suggest adjustable bars with 27 mm front and 24 mm rear on 2wd (GTST & GTT) and 24 mm front and 24 mm rear on 4wd (GTR & Stagea). We sometimes use 22mm on the rear when it is raining or the track is very slippery/dirty. If you have rediculously high "Japanese" rear spring rates, then the 22mm adjustable would be a safer choice.

Hope that helps:cheers:

[Trust33]

thanks sk your a legend.

Are there any bushes that dont come with the kit that are a usual replacement for the old worn out rubbers when doing a handling swap such as this?

[Sydneykid]

thanks sk your a legend.

Are there any bushes that dont come with the kit that are a usual replacement for the old worn out rubbers when doing a handling swap such as this?

Yep, legend in my own lunch time :headspin:

You get inner and outer upper control arm bushes for the front

You get Inner upper for the rea rif you need one set, the outers don't usually wear as much as the inners. You get outers if you need two sets (too much negative).

You get caster bushes bushes for the front of the radius rods, the rear of the rods don't have bushes, they bolt on to the lower control arm.

I got pineappples (rear sub frame bushes) with mine.

[mattysaidso]

ok time for another thread hijack

i am thinkin about buying a 32 as my new drift car and have a few questions about skyline suspension (im kinda only familiar with s13 stuff) and camber adjustment options.

these camber kits you speak of (whiteline, nolethane etc) how far is the camber able to be adjusted? ie whats the max setting able to be achieved front and rear?

how easily is the camber settings able to be changed?

does anyone have any pics of the camber kits either in a car or out of car? (jus wondering, so i can understand how it works)

thanx in advance

cheers!

matty

[Sydneykid]

ok time for another thread hijack

i am thinkin about buying a 32 as my new drift car and have a few questions about skyline suspension (im kinda only familiar with s13 stuff) and camber adjustment options.

these camber kits you speak of (whiteline, nolethane etc) how far is the camber able to be adjusted? ie whats the max setting able to be achieved front and rear?  

how easily is the camber settings able to be changed?

does anyone have any pics of the camber kits either in a car or out of car? (jus wondering, so i can understand how it works)

thanx in advance

cheers!

matty

Hi Matty, the adjustable bushes (camber, front and rear) are eccentric, undo the lock nut, turn the bolt and adjust the camber. I am not sure what you mean by "whats the max setting". Is that max positive camber or max negative camber? For example, on the rear we use the adjustable bushes to remove negative camber when the car is lowered. The lower it is, the more negative we have to remove. On the front the adj bushes add around 2.5 degrees negative, but add 2.5 degrees to what? Again it depends how much the car is lowered.

For a 100% drift application (zero road use) I wouldn't be using adj bushes. You would be better off with spherical joints and adj arms.

Hope that helps:cheers:

[Cubes]

Gary,

With regards to the swaybar setup you mentioned above.

Does the setup of using 27 mm front and 24 mm rear case the car to have a tendency to oversteer or understeer?

At the moment with the stock setup my 32 has a tendency for oversteer, zero understeer.

For example if I turn a really long corner and slowly increase speed it will have the arse end stepping out nice and slowly, luckly no understeer.

Very controllable, no snapping about

I really dislike understeer.

[Sydneykid]

Gary,

 

With regards to the swaybar setup you mentioned above.

 

Does the setup of using 27 mm front and 24 mm rear case the car to have a tendency to oversteer or understeer?

 

At the moment with the stock setup my 32 has a tendency for oversteer, zero understeer.

For example if I turn a really long corner and slowly increase speed it will have the arse end stepping out nice and slowly, luckly no understeer.

Very controllable, no snapping about

 

I really dislike understeer.

With the adjustable stabiliser bars you can change the handling bias;

1. full hard on the front 27mm and full soft on the rear 24mm = understeer

2. full soft on the front 27mm and full hard on the rear 24mm = oversteer

3. And there are 4 settimg on each bar in between, so you choose the bias

4. In the rain or on dirty tracks we use a 22mm adjustable rear, as we can't get the 24mm bar soft enough (ie; too much oversteer)

That's why adjustable stabilisr bars are a must have for any serious track work and its why all circuit race cars (where the regs alow) have ****pit adjustable stabiliser bars.

[Trust33]

Does the front stabiliser bar only come with 2 urethane bushes.

And is the rear the one that comes with all of the nuts,bolts and bushes etc.

For the 33 gts-t.