Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy,

I've noticed the diff (longnose R200) on my GTS-X is starting to display less than LSD qualities and its really starting to annoy me. I know this has been asked a few times but I was hoping to pick some brains and find out if there is a way to get some proper machanical LSD (1.5 or 2 way) happening again in my car.

Any opinions would be welcomed, retrofitting newer OS Giken etc. centres or full swaps with newer nissan diffs etc or ways /places to get the original one rebuilt (not welded) with a more reliable LSD action.

Cheers,

Rhino.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72944-hr31-diff-query/
Share on other sites

yes welcome to the craptastic stock r200lsd, openwheel city.

aftermarket lsd centres are the best option but REALLY expencive, 1500plus. i rebuilt mine with nismo clutchplates and it locked up at the drop of a hat. it was really good.

i recomend that you rebuild it with the nismo clutches.this basicly makes it a nismo one,ive seen both pulled apart and they are the same. il get back to you tomorrow with instructions for preload etc. its not hard at all.

i have all the part numbers at work for them.6 in total.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72944-hr31-diff-query/#findComment-1345622
Share on other sites

Thanks very much TO4GTR this is exactly the sort f info I was chasing.

Rhino.

il get you the part numbers tomorrow. sorry for the delay.

ps. genuine nissan standard friction discs are about $90 each. i got mine from STUART WILKENS RALLY in mulgrave nsw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72944-hr31-diff-query/#findComment-1359740
Share on other sites

just use normal shims and stuff.

Mine cost me $500 all up to have it rebuilt and it works virtually the same as a aftermarket one.

No-one would ever pick the difference and its taken a beating so far and is yet to miss a beat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72944-hr31-diff-query/#findComment-1373180
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I would imagine HR31 LSD's are similar if not the same as turbo DR30's . That era of R200 LSD was designed to have some function but not over the top . A propper R200 LSD has four sets of active plates in each side to give progressive and durable (slow wear rates because more plates = more active surface area) use . The std DR30 type only has one active pair of plates in each side (along with the curved or Belville plates to give some pre load) and a spacer to take up the space where the other active plates would have been . To get it working properly the hemisphere needs to be removed and separated from the crown wheel , the spacers need to be flicked and replaced with clutch plates . Belville washers (plates) need to be selectively fitted to get some static pre load on the clutch plates . Don't get the idea that this static pre load is what does the limited slip thing , its the ramps in the hemisphere case and the wedge shaped notches on the spider shafts that achieve this with the drive or torque reaction from the pinion via the crown wheel . What really happens is if you lift a back wheel or it has zero traction the spider shafts won't ride up the ramps and compress the clutches limiting differential action . Static pre load tries to give some very limited drive in these situations , but for this type LSD to work it needs some traction to load it properly first . The ramp angles are quite good on production R200's , same as Nismo H190's and use the same clutch plates , they don't need heaps of pre load ie 40-50 lbs . Mine was set up to about 67 and was a pain in the butt for road , it would drag its bum round tight corners at low speed and try to lock up with very little throttle . These are bad traits in a road car , causes loaded up suspension joints and causes body flex and rapid tyre wear . I learnt all that the hard way with a Detroit Locker diff I once used in a Bluebird , never again .

Any Nissan diff specialist , particularly one with rally experience from the past should be able to sort it for you .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72944-hr31-diff-query/#findComment-1401380
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Crew,

I have a datto 1600 with a DR30 or HR31 Skyline R200 diff. I beleive it has Crown and pinion wear and therefor the lovely noise that comes with it.

How do i fix it?

Can i purchace a new crown and pinion for this diff?

Do any of the later model R200's have swappable parts?

Regards

Paul

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72944-hr31-diff-query/#findComment-1525158
Share on other sites

The later model r200's have bigger bolts thru the crown so not really interchangable but it has been done.You could try having the crown and pinion reshimed but this doesnt allways work as the crown and pinion may have a lot of wear and need replacing.These are expensive thru nissan and probably easier to hunt around for another diff.

The main problem with the long nose r200 is that most of them only have one friction disk each side and these have a tendency to tear the inner lugs off as all the power is being tranfered thru these.The nismo diffs use 3 of these aech side(actually 2 and a spring disk) and 3 friction plates(2 fricton plates and a spring plate) and then shimed to the correct break away pressure.The nissan pinion shafts have around a 45 deg angle where as the nismo pinion shafts are around 30deg which means they can lock up with less load.The nismo diff also has a chromemoly end plate to reduce the chance of the diff exploding.

http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsdtech.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72944-hr31-diff-query/#findComment-1525448
Share on other sites

Thanks for that datsquik,

Any idea where i might be able to find those Nismo items to upgrade the diff?

Sounds like youve done it before?

Is that pic of your datto?

heres mine:

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...album&album=952

Regards

Paul

post-22724-1124206062.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72944-hr31-diff-query/#findComment-1525496
Share on other sites

SWR usually stocks most of the parts needed and is a bit cheaper than retail from nissan.If you can get a good trade price then you can get some of the plates thru nissan cheaper.Some of the other plates have to be ordered from nismo if your trying to save costs.Send me a pm and i can give you some details of who to buy them thru and what parts are needed.Your dat looks good,what grill is that.Here's some pics of my dat,you'll notice not many pics of the body as its pretty nasty.Im actually in the process of welding on another arse end and getting it ready for a paint job.Im also trying to sort out some billet halfshafts and stub axles.

http://photobucket.com/albums/v604/datsqik/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72944-hr31-diff-query/#findComment-1525949
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's awesome. Fully serviced/full log book history for one of those cars is super rare from what I know. With JDM's like Skyline's, Supras, are quite hard to find one with full log book history. S15's seem to be somewhat of an exception, at least the spec s australian delivered models.
    • Hey all, It's been a bit since I have been able to update.  I pulled the fuel pump, first off it was a "universal" pump and the strainer was very clogged, and it was folded over on itself.  I replaced the fuel pump and all is well....  No more stalling.
    • That's convinced me I'll bump up the G30-660 to 770   Any idea if the difference in boost pressure? Cheers
    • When: Saturday 24th of May 2025 - All day Where: Sydney Dragway, Eastern Creek Cost: Varies - Book direct with the GTR Festival Website We will be there on the day with a stand please reach out via our interest form if you wish to help out with the stand. Limited parking will be available in the display area, first in first served with current members getting priority, please register your interest with the link above also. Please post any great photos you take on the day on this thread and we will try use some in our e-mails/website/social media
    • Hey guys so turns out this project is going to be much bigger than I thought haha but I've done some my homework and have done a few panels on my car, but one part I can just not visualise is this. If I do a spot repair and I put filler in a dent for example and sand outside of the repair with 320 grit lets say so the primer can stick as I will only put primer on that repair and the surrounding area and then repaint the whole panel. Don't I need to make sure that I don't put primer on the old clear coat? I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down, it's still shiny. I thought putting paint on clearcoat or primer on clearcoat is a bad idea because it won't stick. So in this scenario it's a bit different to mine but imagine someone doing a spot repair and only painting that small section of repair but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat. What am I missing?
×
×
  • Create New...