Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hmm depends what you want to do? Mates got r31 and i find them to be a solid car that doesnt brake :(

To give you an idea what you can do with it;

Turbo your rb30 (rb30et)

Put in an rb20 or rb25 engine :(

but if you add a turbo it would be best to upgrade your stock brakes to something like r33 gts-t brakes, also add an lsd would help get the power down better

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73166-help/#findComment-1344151
Share on other sites

go the 31!

definately move towards a brake upgrade even if its just good pads fluid but if your going to up their power go caliper rotor swap

pm DSTURBD if you need eny parts he farms 31s down south in the bunno area and should be able to supply anythign you need cheap

but yeah a very solid safe car to be hit in...... lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73166-help/#findComment-1344287
Share on other sites

become and SAU member, then go down to all the sponsors and ask them to go to town on it :(

I am a SAU member :wassup:

Hey at least i know I'M going to be safe if i get rammed into or fly off the road... Hehe

Ok so brakes and a turbo good thing to start off with then ey,

Great Help guys cheers :(

Splatt

(keep it coming)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73166-help/#findComment-1344509
Share on other sites

I dont think putting a turbo on it is as easy as it sounds, you are going to spend twice the value of the car by doing that, would be better off buying something with turbo already in it.

oh and for all the ppl using the other view.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73166-help/#findComment-1344759
Share on other sites

Good to see another female wanting to improve her car. :(

I agree with gun32, if thats the way you want to go. Turbo = bigger brakes needed.

Personally, I think you should just keep that car for a while & get used to driving for a start, save up money & then buy a newer car already with a turbo in it after a year or two, if power is what you want.

By putting a lot of time & money into converting a car you might in the end decide to change up after a while, so just think ahead about what you want to do, and from there it is easy. If you are going to do it, you would probably be spending as much as you would by getting something similar, like a 180sx.

Good luck, keep us updated. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73166-help/#findComment-1345351
Share on other sites

man i should change my name to a girls name then post a photo of some hot chick as my aviator then ill get help straight away........ look how many replys this chick gets in 1 day to her thread

lol

You saying im hot? :cooldance

HAHA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73166-help/#findComment-1345415
Share on other sites

aviator?  

As Driver asked, looks or performance is the question!

Let me help u pimp ur ride!  You do the spending though :(

Hmm well with what everyone is saying maybe i should go with looks for now till i do get used to driving around a bit more,

I'll have to see what happens.

Gettin a half cut sounded alright but might look into that a bit further and see how we go..

Thanx guys

Nat:cooldance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73166-help/#findComment-1345458
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...