Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I like this thread. I'm curious as to know where all the peak torque figures are for our RB20's sit at.

Would 5250RPM be too high for most of us or is it higher.  

The higher would be better for my setup.

I'm guessing my peak torque would be around 5000 to 6000 rpm.

Hopefully I will find out this week at the Ingham car show.

Just before 8000 rpm.

Ussusally about 7800 going from what my safc tells me.

I get 14psi buy 6000rpm.

The turbo is a little big for the RB20 i think.

It will make really good power but way in the rev range.

Would be more suited to an RB25 id say.

Oh well gota go with what I got now.

i recently did the converision for my car and i wholely agree with StarioTurbo - the rb25 has so much more low-end torque and is a whole lot smoother than the rb20.

I can do roundabouts in 3rd gear, don't have to downshift as often to pick up the pace and the car launches like no tomorow.

I would highly recommend the conversion to anyone. Engine + PFC = 200rwkws. Thats more than enough to have alot of fun with on the road.

I'm not sure, but would 200rwks out of an rb25 be equivalent to 220rwks out of an rb20? Due to engine capacity? I've been thinking about this one for a few days now....

I often use 3rd for roundabouts when cruising. Speed, around 20-30kays exit speed. It accelerates easily from idle. Obviously just cruising, full throttle requires around 1700rpm on board otherwise it rattles the gearbox a little.

The 3ltr through the hills has removed the need for second gear.

I was recently playing around behind a R32 Rb20DET through the hills, he was flat stick through second in to third, I was much more relaxed simply accelerating out of 25kay hair pins in third.

Don't get me wrong it wasn't a full thrash, just a mild slow in fast out type drive. The safer way to drive. I've never been for hammering really hard in to corners on the street, its a receipt for disaster.

...

I'm not sure, but would 200rwks out of an rb25 be equivalent to 220rwks out of an rb20?  Due to engine capacity?  I've been thinking about this one for a few days now....

A power rating is just that and makes no difference if its coming from a 1.8L, 2.0L or 2.5L, the torque charactoeristics and if the delivery is peaky may influence if one car is quicker....

Sure the RB25 transplant, especially with the RB25 gearbox is a good thing. The best street car i think i have been in was an R33 GTST with a 2530 setup, the thing was choice:)

BUT... me, i dont like playing around on the street. My car has plenty of punch to drive around day to day on the street...i can go round roundabouts in 3rd gear as well, i often do 2nd gear takes offs as well:) But i dont for a second think that this translates to my car having as much punch at 3,000rpm as a R32 with an RB25. But how quick do you want to go on the street, i can change gears at 2,500rpm and happily cruise along with traffic..often do. I can only ever go as quick as the car in front lets me.

An R32 GTST with a RB20 and turbo/ecu upgrade can easily pull mid to high 12s for the 1/4. That in my eyes is pretty quick. So can an RB25 powered R32 so there is no difference.

If you want to drive around in a gear higher then what is required...i dont understand why that hold so much appeal, but if you want to then go the RB25. As for smoothness and traction, my car hooks up perfectly with 235 rwkws in 2nd gear, doesnt wheelspin all that badly in 1st either...dont believe me :( Your welcome to drive it yourself It even has bald tyres at the moment.:)

By all means go and put an RB25 in the car if thats what you want to do (thats not what this discussion was about:)) ... and IM NOT SAYING RB20s ARE BETTER!!!!

All im saying is that you want a cheap / quick street car capable of 12sec qtrs then the RB20 will get the job done...if you want more then sure the RB20 aint the place to start...especially if you want a car that will storm out of corners on the street where your doing 35-40kms and hour...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...