Jump to content
SAU Community

Adjusting Handbrake


Recommended Posts

This is a general question but more so in regards to adjusting the handbrake on R32's. My handbrake is loose on my R32, basically meaning when I pull the handbrake up the shoe in the rear drum drags while moving rather than locking it up like it should. The main reason for wanting to do this is mainly for drifting.

In order to get rid of the slack do people adjust the handbrake at the rear shoe and readjust the handbrake cable as necessary? Or find that they can just get away with adjusting the cable?

Cheers,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well mine was slack so i tightened it up under the glove box so it only took a few clicks to lock but even now it still won't lock up even if i yank it, i didn't realise there was another adjustment i could make so i guess i better get under the car and have a look on the weekend!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Based on what mr rbman has said, plus the manual also says you need to adjust at the shoe, it'd be best to do it once, do it right? I'm keen to hear how you go cause mine neeeds a tighten too, but is way at the bottom of the to do list! :rant:

Cheers

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

try a search on this... for a more definate answer

if you remove the rear wheel, there should be a rubber plug on the rear discs (both sides)

rotate untill you find the thingo doobie, and u shud be able to adjust it there...

then u fine tune it under the handbrake boot (inside the car)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the most efftive way to adj. ur hand bake is from your REAR DRUM, on R32 gts-t type M it uses rear drum disk system, this allow the handbrake to use the drum and footbrake to use disk, anyways to adj. rear hand brake ............

step 1:

take off rear wheel

step 2:

inbetween the wheels studs, there is hold with a rubber cover, to cover it so dust and dirt won't go in side, this hold will let you have access to the drum brake

step 3:

rotate the rotor till the hole is pointing at 6 o'clock

step 4:

stick a flat head screw driver into the hole, now you should be able to turn the spring that connect to the drum pads, this way it will enlarge to pad so that there are less distance from pads to drum, this will greatly effect the power of you hand brake.

ps: turn the spring up will enlarge the pads diamiter, turning it down will make it smaller..also easyer if you take the rotor off

hope that helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's the most absurd thing I've ever heard. I would go cut bellhousing over that monstrosity of a flywheel all day, every day. It puts a lot more mass further from the last main bearing. I've had nothing but problems with Collins in the past and refuse to ever buy their products again. I would not trust anything they tell you. He's playing his salesman card.  I'm currently at 640whp on a mustang dyno (~770bhp) with the intentions of running E85 and a lot more power this upcoming spring. Cheers, 
    • Nah, it's not the reduced knock margin. It is a direct mechanical effect of having to initiate the combustion earlier, while the piston is still rising, which starts to exert combustion pressure on the rising piston earlier, making the rest of the engine work harder to finish driving the piston up to TDC where the combustion pressure stops being a negative and starts being a positive. Your modern engine that only needs ~10° to make MBT doesn't waste the other 10 or so degrees of crank rotation. That's almost all of it. The difference in knock margin might go either way. Remember that modern engines to which you are currently comparing the long tractor engine (the RB) are now running super high compression, direct injection, tricky cam control and maybe even cylinder pressure sensors. You're not comparing apples with other fruit. It's apples and sea weed, or some other evolutionarily primitive vegetation. And remember, squish only really comes into play at the very end of the stroke. It certainly does good things, but it is not the biggest contributor to what's going on. It is quite possibly much less important in 4 valve head than 2 valvers also, because there is so much less squish available to a 4 valve anyway.
    • Food for thought, a longer stroke motor would need less ignition timing vs. a shorter stroke motor requiring more ignition timing.
    • Thanks Duncan, HART is only 10 mins from me (I did my bike license there), it'd be awesome if it ran these types of things.  Sutton Road does look good and they take fewer cars than SMSP which is good.  Surely you have enough land to lay a few million tonnes of concrete and some sprinklers D? 
    • I thought an engine that needs more ignition timing to make power is going to result in less power due to reduced knock margin? More time for the combustion to propagate -> more time for it to heat up the rest of the mix to detonation.
×
×
  • Create New...