Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dunno Paul, just a personal thing i suppose. This will be the last exhaust i ever put on the car, so i want it to last. And sometimes i get under the car and make it all shiney again. Is that weird?

Give Peter a ring at Advan, they get some great TRUST front pipe copies made up...you would be hard pressed to tell the difference!

P.S. why do you want stainless?

I'm welding up my own mild steel job that runs a 3.5" dump/front pipe in to a 3.5" cat, from the cat runs a 3.5" pipe in to a 3.5" Magnaflow muffler that splits the flow in to 2 x 2.5" pipes.

Then from the intermediate muffler 2 x 2.5" pipes will run to the back of the car in to a 2 x 2.5" inlet and outlet magnaflow muffler.

2 x 2.5" nice little exhaust tips and it will be quieter than a single 3.5" flow slightly better and won't look like a damn Milotin. ;)

Magnaflow also make a 4" in that splits in to 2 x 3" out.

That would flow damn well. :rofl:

Generally Aus exhausts from my experience are crap. I had a $1660 D&T Performance exhaust made up that was absolutely sh*t house.

The dump pipe has massive slags splattered inside not to mention how the pipe wasn't stretched properly to mate up with the lower part of the flange, resulting in a 15mm V shape exhaust flow protruding lump smack in front of the compressor wheel. :P

Its been around 3years, now all the welds are rusting, but its s/steel?!??! :(

a s s h o l e s

Depends on the setup... a few scenarios, using 350rwkw

a) if you are using an EXT Gate and plan to plumb it back 4" regardless

B) if you are using an EXT Gate and keeping it atmo... 3.5" would be pretty reasonable if your tight in cash, it would give you enough otherwise 4" if you ahve the bling bling

c) if its all int gated and stuff (read:nasty sh|t) then 4" regardless

As for WetGTR, from what ive taken in, the CAMS and stuff will be allowing you to do that power with the 3" as they are forcing it.

Put on a 3.5", or even a 4" as im sure ben has told you... and it would be VERY interesting to see the power difference which should be very notceable.

PS. Racepace custom turbos are the shiznit ;)

Guest two.06l
Dunno Paul, just a personal thing i suppose. This will be the last exhaust i ever put on the car, so i want it to last. And sometimes i get under the car and make it all shiney again. Is that weird?

Weird....thats nuts!! But then again our TRUST 4" has got cat guts splattered all over it!

Depends on the setup... a few scenarios, using 350rwkw

a) if you are using an EXT Gate and plan to plumb it back  4" regardless  

B) if you are using an EXT Gate and keeping it atmo... 3.5" would be pretty reasonable if your tight in cash, it would give you enough otherwise 4" if you ahve the bling bling

c) if its all int gated and stuff (read:nasty sh|t) then 4" regardless

As for WetGTR, from what ive taken in, the CAMS and stuff will be allowing you to do that power with the 3" as they are forcing it.

Put on a 3.5", or even a 4" as im sure ben has told you... and it would be VERY interesting to see the power difference which should be very notceable.

PS. Racepace custom turbos are the shiznit :rofl:

Yeah, ill be venting external wastegate to atmosphere, but if i get sick of that (or defected) i'd like to be able to dump it into the exhaust pipe at a later date.

Im actually having a hard time finding a 4 inch (101mm) stainless exhaust for my r32. I like the Apexi, but the N1 evolution goes from 85mm near the cat to 95mm towards the rear!!??? Apexi do a true 100mm exhaust, but not for the R32 anymore.

BTW, its $1100 for a cat back stainless Apexi, and $1700 for a cat back MILD Trust. WTF!

Shaun.

Depends on the setup... a few scenarios, using 350rwkw

a) if you are using an EXT Gate and plan to plumb it back  4" regardless  

B) if you are using an EXT Gate and keeping it atmo... 3.5" would be pretty reasonable if your tight in cash, it would give you enough otherwise 4" if you ahve the bling bling

c) if its all int gated and stuff (read:nasty sh|t) then 4" regardless

As for WetGTR, from what ive taken in, the CAMS and stuff will be allowing you to do that power with the 3" as they are forcing it.

Put on a 3.5", or even a 4" as im sure ben has told you... and it would be VERY interesting to see the power difference which should be very notceable.

PS. Racepace custom turbos are the shiznit :rofl:

Yep your right R31Nismoid!

Ben did tell me that the exhaust system is becoming a restrictive point in my system. I'm now in the process of installing a HKS Super Dragger Muffler which is 3.5" and will have my EXT Gate vent to amto.

Wanted to go a 4" system but when you have the 3.5" HKS Muffler but sitting there doing nothing at my brothers place (was to be a future project of a Supra) , thought I use that and see what the results are.

I can tell you that atm I have 412awkw with a 3" system, then if the ext gate vents to atmo, I get 417awkw.

I hope the 3.5" system takes my power levels a little further. I will post up the results once completed.

The following modifications are as follows:

RB26 ENGINE

HKS 88MM FORGED PISTONS

HKS CON RODS

HKS STEP 2 280 CAMSHAFTS

HKS CAM GEARS

HKS 1.6MM HEADGASKET

JUN OIL PUMP

PERFORMANCE METALCRAFT 8L RACING SUMP

PORTED HEAD

NISMO BEARINGS

NISMO CAMBELT

AUTRONIC SMC AND LOOM

1000CC INJECTORS

BLITZ FUEL RAIL

MALPASSI FUEL REG

SPLITFIRE COIL PACKS

GARRET BALL BEARING TURBO(NEW T04Z) - RACEPACE CUSTOM

RACEPACE CUSTOM  EXHAUST MANIFOLD

TRUST EXTERNAL WASTEGATE

NISMO G-MAX TWIN PLATE CLUTCH

HKS GT SPEC DRAG INTERCOOLER

CUSTOM FUEL SWIRL POT - TWIN OUTLETS FED BY GTR FUEL PUMP

2 X BOSCH 044 EXTERNAL FUEL PUMPS

HKS OIL COOLER KIT

TRUST EXHAUST 3"

ARC ALLOY RADIATOR

ARC OIL CATCH TANK

HKS EVC4

HKS COLD AIR INTAKE

TUNED BY BEN @ RACEPACE MELBOURNE

CURRENTLY MAKING 417KW@THE WHEELS AT 1.3 BAR

WAS MAKING OVER 500KW WITH PREVIOUSLY FITTED HKS T51R

This is almost the exact same combination that i have put together. Will be interesting to see what it does on the dyno next week. I will keep you posted. Only thing that i can see is different is you have used 280 degree cams where i used 272 .

I would highly reccomend a Trust TR (they are 3.75 inch i think) they fit the bill for your requirements except for the stainless steel part which is really nothing major. The silencer system they have is very effective and they make room for large power increases.

Advan Perfromance in Silverwater stock them - 9647 1326

I have this. Got it from Nengun.

It is pretty loud... but tough sounding with the cams :)

It's a bit much for daily driving, and particularly highway work

nice on the track though

GTR0006.JPG

GTR0036.JPG

How much was it? Is it the Trust TR. Is that all you got or did it come with the rest of the exhaust (cat back including silencer and cat replacement pipe)? Im really interested to know becuase ill consider doing this as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a 6 boost manifold and it has loads of bends etc. turbo has a cover however manifold doesn’t so I started to wrap what I could without taking turbo off. Very restricted area   are you stating wrapping could lead to cracking weld? Is that because heat is retained?    i have a exhaust gas temp right after turbo and it hits 700degree or 800 at times.   there are areas which is impossible to reach with fibre glass cloth. Is there anything I could apply such as the photo shared earlier which would formulate around exhaust pipe in difficult to reach areas, sort of like aluminium foil flexible to shape it in place?   i think from earlier reply you mentioned acl? Is this what you meant?   https://www.nstparts.com/product/acl-heat-shield-700x275     photo of my engine bay   https://ibb.co/9grHsMN https://ibb.co/bXC8KRM https://ibb.co/KV3kGZc   I am trying to cover bottom of the exhaust manifold which joins the turbo. Only way is to take turbo and possible manifold out as it also touches the engine mount which I don’t fancy doing
    • So....I managed to fix the belt coming off problem, but unfortunately i destroyed my oil pump. While testing and hitting my rev limiter a bunch, my oil pump took a shit. I actually heard it break. In my great wisdom i decided to hit redline 5 times (original plan). Lowered it to 7500 for the soft limiter. Normally it would come off on the first go. The 6th time I hit the limiter the pump broke and as i began accelerating again and hit it the 7th time, oil pressure dropped and the protection kicked in. It actually made a "tink" as if i dropped something hollow.   The motor is pulled and should be rebuilt and put back in 3 weeks. No bearings were spun and i could have gotten away with simply replacing the pump, but since i had to pull the motor....might as well build it   I made a billet tensioner and the belt stayed on without getting frayed. I also made one for a friends R33, but I was thinking of using a hydraulic unit to keep constant pressure on it when the belt stretches.
    • Yeah 98 for me, and 6.7/100 was my actual usage. On the downside the bloody thing still isn't running properly but at least they hybrid system is happy now. It starts but missfires like a bastard, and isn't throwing any code except "missfire". Thanks scoop. I did notice the AFMs are reading quite different at idle 1.33v and 1.67v so 25% variance (and have both changed and swapped them, the issue stays on the driver's side afm) so I'm looking for exhaust restriction (mouse nest?), compression issue or (hopefully not, no physical damage seen) wiring issue. Throttle might also be an issue but that is harder because you can't swap them side to side and not cheap to fire the parts cannon at.
    • I hope you're right and it somehow justifies it's existence!
×
×
  • Create New...