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OLD SCHOOL R30
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OLD SCHOOL R30 Apprentice

OLD SCHOOL R30

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Hello everyone. Could anyone out ther help me with more information about my HR30 skyline? I know that it has the L20ET slug for an engine but that will be making way for an RB20 from an R32. What I would like to know is what kind of diff I have possible suspension upgrades and any thing else that you might think would be usefull info. Thanks

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blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

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Not sure of the diff - I think it's an R200, and I think it will be an open spinner (ie non-LSD).

As for suspension, fit some decent replacement shock cartridges (eg KYB make some) and some decent springs (Lovells, Kings make lowered sets). Fit urethane bushes. Maybe upgraded anti-roll bars.

I'm currently working on a conversion to fit Z31 (4-stud) rotors to the fronts. Otherwise, the brakes are OK.

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stagefumer11 Rising Star

stagefumer11

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I gained large amounts of torque when just fitting a GT4 celica intercooler as a front mount. no so much in the power area. unsure tho....

A good advantage with the l20et is the fact with the Injection system you can upgrade the injectors to rb20det ones which are 270cc or fj20det ones, anything low resistant, and use the factory ecu. 100cc Upgrade over the factory 180cc. :D.. The key is in tunning the AFM tension which will determin the A/F mixtures.

I highly Insist on installing a larger fuel pump. thanks to them being external its a easy job.

PopoffValve.jpg

The over boost safety vavle is the welded up unit you see in the pic.

Another good mod is to remove the restrictiver intake piping going from the afm to the turbo, and mount the afm directly to the Turbo intake. This improves the throttle responce and gains in torque. Grabing the 3" mounting plate of a afm of any Zed car will let you atach a pod filter.

Remove all Emission controll systems off the l20et they rob power. Alot of power.

Installing a 60mm Throttle body is a must, I am about to do this also. The only downside is needed to removed the cold start system to weld up the large section that has be be grinded back to improve the intake flow into the plenuim. Its not biggie the motor runs fine without it.

If you wish not to do this then bypass the throttle body heater system by removing the two hoses passing thru it and joining them

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hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

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stagefumer11, what turbo are you using? standard ECU?

and what emission control dohickeys should be removed/disconnected - I see one thing blanked off in your pic, what else?

I've never modified an EFI turbo thing before, and only know about 1/2 of what I'm looking at! :lol I've always had old L series fours with carbs and dissy's...

I'm in a mad rush to try and get my HR30 ready for a tarmac rally on June 30, and need to have some sort of bhp! I've attached a pic of how it currently looks, so you can see I have a lot of work to do... finish painting, put it all back together, get it running again!, tyres, rego, plus a few mods - exhaust, intercooler, boost, and a few of your cheap tricks - thanks for the info

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Boof Mentor

Boof

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actually, mine runs perfuctly fine with a full venting bov. you will find with the old school ecu's and the "vein" afms it isnt much pf a problem.

Yeah im in the same boat, running an atmo BOV with standard ecu/afm etc no drama's so far :)

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stagefumer11 Rising Star

stagefumer11

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Im still running the factory turbo....... and ecu. They are not to limited in factory form. I do recomend getting a r33 25t turbo as a larger upgrade. My pics are a bit on the old side. and i dont have any new updated ones. so i can only explain what needs to be done.

DCP_4019.jpg

Pretty much from this pic you can see what needs to be removed, i have no idle contorll system nor emission regulations. :rofl:. Discontect the rear vavle onte back of the intake manifold. this is the EGR valve (exhaust gass Recirculation) Which opens up on crusing. its lowers the emission outputs. but robs throttle responce.

YOu do not need a carbon canister. :P remove that also.

Bypass the throttle body heater. i have no done that yet but need to do so.

Set your timing to 17btc.

You can see my intake as it is in that picture. but now it has changed. So the best thing to do is to mount it on the front of the turbo. The rubbber Sleve that is currently on the turbo intake will let you do this. Doing all of this removes the "Small" restrictive intake piping.

Of you are requiring good thorttle responce install a N/A AFM. they have less tension preloaded onto the AFM arm. You do have to swap over the turbo air temp sensor. I just tryed this last night but lost alot of top end. I didnt feel the power untill 12psi. Compared to my Turbo AFM. The turbo afm's are more windings on the Tension Spring for the gate. Which i presume gives a more consistint readings. compared to a quick acting na one. adjusting the tension can change your a/f mixtures depending on what you require.

Another mod is to install the AFM onto the throttle body. These "vein" style afm's can be used as a blow thru setup. They are stongly buit and can hold more boost than the Mazda style blow thrus. The idea is to get the Afm Close as possible to the throttle body which improves the throttle responce and helps low speed crusing.

Do the fuelupmp. The factory ones are very lacking. Im using a late model bosh unit out of a 1999 v8 merc, not sure what model. they flow Huge amounts of fuel.

Turbos are good for 18-22psi. Depends on Condition. They are a full steel wheel'd Garret t3' the only downside. they are small

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stagefumer11 Rising Star

stagefumer11

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No worrie. I just wish i had a second car to drive around then id be doing the same thing as you with the rebuild,l Always check underthe front gards mine has been rusting pretty badly around those area's repaired the drives side which also required another gard. :rofl:

Are you painting it yourself?. if so how are you prepping it ?

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hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

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No worrie. I just wish i had a second car to drive around then id be doing the same thing as you with the rebuild,l Always check underthe front gards mine has been rusting pretty badly around those area's repaired the drives side which also required another gard. :)  

Are you painting it yourself?. if so how are you prepping it ?

yep, painting it under the house. I had the rust cut out and welded up, had some rust in front gaurds, sills, under the boot rubber (which required a cut from a local R30 sedan and some minor reshaping), and in the spare wheel well.

its just a quick respray though - nothing too fancy. Just fixed up the areas that needed attention, then a light coat of primer over the whole car so I could use acrylic top coats. In the above pic, I've already painted the colour on and had to give it a light sand because I had some problems with the gun and it went on a bit dry. Clear is yet to go on - I wanted to do that today, but ran out of time... so I guess it will have to wait till next weekend. Hopefully it will be registered in 2 or 3 weeks, then I can start ripping off some of those pesky pollution gadgets!

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hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

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Hmm... almost happy that Sheridan ended up selling it to you for less than I offered her, I suck at bodywork.

The Simmons look good though

yeah, its alot of work even doing a 'quick' respray, and it was in a pretty neglected condition. I didn't mention that the paint on the bonnet, bootlid and roof were all cracked/crazed - so that was a bit more involved than a coat of primer. Here's a pic of when I first drove it home - after I washed it with degreaser!

the wheels are actually Rays Engineering - 16*8" on the back, 7" on the front. I swapped these 15" Simmons for them.

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