Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I posted a thread here about one of these but no one had tried one so i bought one to see how it goes.

I have previously tried 3 boost controllers and this is equally as cood as the Electronic boost controller i had.

Greddy cabin pnumatic bleed valve. spiked like shite and wasnt too good.

Atomic GFB bleed valve. was a little better but still spiked.

GRID single stage electronic boost controller. it was very good and did not spike and it was very accurate.

The one i just bought is a mechanical/pnumatic controller and is well made.

53_1_b.jpg

i drew a little paint sketch to show how it works

lfgkjg.jpg

It builds boost INSTANTLY because the ball does not let any pressure through preventing wastegate creep. Then when it reaches the desired boost level it opens and holds the boost within 1 psi of the set level.

I set it to 12 psi and it does not spike at all! but it does bleed off 1 psi at very high rpm.

The car is now super responsive because it gets to 12 psi alot quicker and holds there.

I bought it of ebay and i suspect the guy who sells them builds them but they are very well made and work incredibly well

Just thought i would post my results for those who are looking for a boost controller. Sometimes car accessories are really cheap on seasonal Big W Catalogue.

UPDATE... this is for the 100's of people wanting to know how to install one of these buggars... Check (if you live in usa): Kroger Weekly Ad, or Myer catalogue.

R33 INSTALLATION DIAGRAM

Edited by CEF11E
  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

just gave the car a good hard test and i have been able to get the boost to hit 12psi at 2600rpm!!! and it stays there untill 6400rpm and then drops about 1psi close to redline.

I have an auto and the car just feels so much better to drive. there is tons more torque down lower in the rev range maknig the car more enjoyable to drive.

i cant belive its the same engine and turbo because it boosts so much faster.

at 4.5 psi (stock boost for my car) without the controller boost starts to build at 2600 and full boost by 3100~3200. and the car feels very laggy. The car is a nissan gloria and is a cruiser designed for smooth power delivery.

with the controller boost starts at 2200 and full boost (4.5 psi) by 2400. this means it is stoping wastegate creep very well. it also means my stock actuator sucks!!!

so not only can you use it to deliver more boost you can also use it to deliver boost much faster.

Its funny how sometimes the simplest thing gives an excellent result. i thought i would give this a try and if it was crappy i was going to build the jaycar boost controller but for 20min install and $22.50 i got a result i am very happy with!

I would say i just got the cheapest power gain ever prob about $1 per kilowatt!!!

:rofl:

yep exactly... its a bit at a time process.

first you leave it completly open giving you normal boost level

(opposite to other bleed valves) with normal bleed valves the more you open them the higher boost you get.

take it for a spin, make sure no hoses have come loose and boost builds normally.

raise boost by tightening the allen key down 1/4 turn, go for a drive. repeat untill you have reached your desired peak boost.

once it is acheived tighten the locking nut in place so it stays at that boost level.

I've just picked one of these suckers up. :D

It actually works a little different to the one I had previously.

This one doesn't appear to bleed any boost at all but use a variable pressure on the spring.

The one I tried had a preset pressure on the spring and ball then would bleed boost in order to get the required boost. :D

a question i have an external gate now it has 2 nipples on it now i just got one of these boost controllers and i know it has to go some where so where and what nipple does it go on

turbo007copy4ay.jpg

bottom at the moment is connected to the inlet manifold so do i tee into that line with the boost tap the run the line from the tap to the top of the waste gate???

I've just picked one of these suckers up. :P

It actually works a little different to the one I had previously.

This one doesn't appear to bleed any boost at all but use a variable pressure on the spring.

The one I tried had a preset pressure on the spring and ball then would bleed boost in order to get the required boost. :(

So you're happy with it for the money?

It took 7 days for delivery including the 1-2days it took for my online banking direct deposit to clear.

I've attached a few pics of it. Initial inspection of the spring and ball was its rather decent quality.

The spring is very much so decent quality and has a heavy duty feel.

I'll hook it up within the next day or so and let you all know how well it works.

In parts.. You can see the small hole that stops the pressure being trapped between the ball/spring and the actuator.

Really for $22 its worth it PROVIDING it controls boost. lol I'll find out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...