Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes CEF11E is correct. It was difficult to tell by the pics but it appears that the nit is connected corerctly to the actuator but cannont clearly see if you have other barb connected to compressor side of turbo. I believe its in the way it is installed that is the problem, perhaps you have the wrong line at wrong point..

Mark

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

From the picture i can see the solanoid is still connected. I would advise to disconnect it. As i have never seen under the bonnet of an r34 i cant see where all those connections are going.

if you wanted to test it and isolate the the problem.

1. look at the turbo compressor housing. these should be a hose coming off it connect this to the BOTTOM of the boost controller and leave the other side connected to the actuator as you have it.

ok so controller to wastegate actuator con is ok.

where the T piece is the are 2 hoses con. The top one cons to the bottom of the solenoid.

The bottom T piece con connects to the turbo pipe (pipe beneath air intake pipe bout the same diam).The other pipe not con to the T piece comes from a silver pipe below and cons to the top of the solenoid.

The 3 pipes are all within that black platic sheath secured by plastic tie.

So with this in mind u say:

1. leave con from control to wastegate.

2. Disconect the top T piece con that goes to bottom solenoid con.

3. Connect bottom (thicker) T piece con to the controller directly (the one that goes to turbo pipe)

4. Disconnect the other pipe (from silver pipe below, not con to T piece) that goes to top of solenoid.

So basically take solenoid out of equation. Is this going to cause any problems? Thanks all for your patience just want to verify before I go out and do this. LOL I'll get there one day I hope!

lol mate i can make one for $9. u can get everything u need from a good hardware store...

Finding the components is the easy part making them to precisley control boost is by far something else. A number of people have tried to copy without success and caused damage to engines.

If I give you all the materials to build a house can you build it right???

There is always someone that likes to be a goose.....

Mark

As other guys have said boosts earlier and holds very well and holds it in a stable manner. Basically, even on idle the boost guage does not sit near zero anymore its like 1/5 of the way up. Torque builds quickly making the turbo more usable = better average power. I only have this and K&N Panel and I've noticed a good difference in limited testing.

Working installation on R34 below. Happy to help as others have helped me, as u can see I had some dramas :rofl: But all good now. Mmm perhaps I should plug up that T piece. Next step for me is full CES Racing zorst, should get the silver service taxi moving nicely.

Picture_0121.jpg

even on idle the boost guage does not sit near zero anymore its like 1/5 of the way up

That would indicate you previously had a vacuum leak, idle and light throttle should sit under zero, moderate throttle should be zero plus. :rofl:

Yes could have exagerated that point in retrospect (guess i was excited at finally getting it working). I think that the guage does sit higher on idle than it used to though or am i just imaging this? Certainly easier to get that turbo whistle happening in either case. Think I might have to take it out tonight again, possibly up a few hills. All in the name of testing of course :kewl:

i still say this is THE BEST boost controller i have ever seen i cant get over it

congradulations to simark87 for the design and engineering of the product

this is my hands down the most bang for buck i have bought for the car also 100% reliable and effective and safe

so if i have dialled in 15psi or 20psi thats all im going to get no more no less no spikes no shit

congratulations!!

matt

boostcont0037vy.jpg

boostcont0028cg.jpg

Hi guys,

Glad you all like it.

Special for skyliners remians at $28 expresss delivered in AUS.

Just email me at [email protected] with your oder adn address, I will then send you my details and supply a ref number.

Cheers all,

You lot make me want to trade in my cordia for a skyline...lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
    • The ones in brackets are the first stages of tightening. I usually aim for the middle of the range. They give a range because it's actually not that critical to hit exactly the right bolt tension. Enough is enough, and too much is too much, and the range given is inside that range. Half of the bolts in the suspension are problematic for putting a torque wrench on anyway, so just get done up to mechanic tight  and spanner checked a week later.
×
×
  • Create New...