Jump to content
SAU Community

I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!

CEF11E

By CEF11E,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Andi Experienced

Andi

Posted
Posted

Can't keep the stock solenoid? Is this because its suppose to be running in series with the wastegate? How come bleedvalves can still use the stock solenoid though? Is it becuase they are running parallel?

So confusing lol. Thanks again haha.

Andy

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

FATAZZ Grand Master

FATAZZ

Posted
Posted

yeh,i got the other bleed valve off u CEFF1E,

i cant really see a difference in the two.

yeh ur 1 worked, i been runnin 14psi on my std turbo for over 1 week now:)

n i didnt connect anything back to the bov.

chrissso Proficient

chrissso

Posted
Posted
ok,the bleed valve i just took out,its not connected to the bov at all, in the instructions simark sent me,says i should connect it back to the bov, when i connected the first bleed valve to the bov, it wouldnt go up or down in boost,just made flutter noises

I've had this before. Only assuming, but - Sounds like the bleed valve is on the same pressure line as the BOV. The bleed valve will backflow and let presure in instead of bleeding when the throttle shuts and that means that there isn't a vacuum behind the BOV, so it wont open. Then the turbo surges.

Thats why I'm getting one of these...

My idle was higher, due to air backflowing through a bleed valve. Then I noticed that the BOV would not blow off when I increased boost.

Dee 33 Community Regular

Dee 33

Posted
Posted

So let me get this straight.

A bleed valve and this cool valve go in the same position.

A bleed valve lets air out thus reducing the amount of pressure the wastegate sees which in turns increases boost by delaying the opening of the wastegate until desired boost is hit.

This valve blocks the pressure completely from the wastegate thus increasing boost until the set pressure is met, the valve opens, and the wastegate opens as normal.

In other words, this cool valve will increase boost faster as rather than reducing pressure to the wastegate gradually, it blocks the pressure completely until the desired boost is hit when it then lets all pressure through opening the gate and holding the boost.

Comprende?

FATGTS-R Experienced

FATGTS-R

Posted
Posted

I'm having a few issues with boost control also and for ~$30 I'm willing to give this a go even if it doesnt work.

I noticed someone mention they received a blue one as opposed to the red ones pictured. What other colours are avilable? If possible I would prefer a black one.

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted
So let me get this straight.

A bleed valve and this cool valve go in the same position.

A bleed valve lets air out thus reducing the amount of pressure the wastegate sees which in turns increases boost by delaying the opening of the wastegate until desired boost is hit.

This valve blocks the pressure completely from the wastegate thus increasing boost until the set pressure is met, the valve opens, and the wastegate opens as normal.

In other words, this cool valve will increase boost faster as rather than reducing pressure to the wastegate gradually, it blocks the pressure completely until the desired boost is hit when it then lets all pressure through opening the gate and holding the boost.

Comprende?

i had a dog and his name was BINGO!

simark87 Enthusiast

simark87

Posted
Posted

I guys

Thanks a heap for your interest in the turbotech boost controller.

I have now received orders for 30 and have already sent out 19 of them.

As all good things come to an end, the $28 price is unstainable with the cost and time involved.

I will of course continue to look after skyliners with a revised cost of $35 express delivered. Which is far less than I charge on ebay.

Pretty cheap for a F%^$ing great boost controller!!

Thanks gain

Mark

p.s keep those pics scoming its a blast to see them :headspin:

tuitahi Community Regular

tuitahi

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

please excuse me but I'm a little lost... I have a 33 gtst and have looked at my setup (stock solenoid) but don't fully understand where to put this.

Can someone post a pick of an R33 install... am I fitting it in place of the solenoid? ie, just remove the hoses from the solenoid and put them on the valve, if I remove the solenoid from the picture altogether, I'm left with three hoses. Which two do I use?

Sorry if someone has already made it clear, my eyes must be blurry

mickr33 Community Regular

mickr33

Posted
Posted

Received my boost controller today and have installed it. Um what can i say but OMFG are you serious. Got mine for $28 but now gone up to $35. Guys this is penuts. This is the best controller iv'e come across. I previously had a GFB bleed (rubbish) value and this unit simply replaces it in the same position as previously stated. I now have it set at 12psi and upon testing it, it did NOT spike at all and did NOT drop of at the top end where the GFB valve would spike and go from 15psi and drop of to 10psi. What a bargin for such a good product. Congratulations Mark and thankyou.

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted
Get that patent happeneing.  

 

Edit: Bummer, looks like you can't get patents if you have already sold the product. :P

 

http://www.abc.net.au/newinventors/txt/s1097642.htm

m sure you could work something out, maybe "CHANGE" wink, wink, nudge, nudge the design then patent that one instead??? :headspin:

cd04 Contributor

cd04

Posted
Posted

I would like to add myself to the list of satisfied customers. I bought this valve about three weeks ago after reading the first post. This is definately the best $32.50 i have spent on my car, instant boost and no spiking!!!! :headspin:

I spent my weekend finetuning the boost and now i can fang with peace of mind

:wassup:

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yep i agree mark. you should patent these. if this is just one forum for one model of car and you have sold like 30 of them to us. Imagne if you distributed this on every car forum around the world.

Ionos Community Regular

Ionos

Posted
Posted

Hehe guys the ball and spring design isn't something new, it's been around for a while. :rofl:

Still a great controller thought, mine is going fantastic, no spiking, constant boost that builds fast.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • r32-25t
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By r32-25t · Posted

      I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GT > GTT compatibilities

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • GTSBoy
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...