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Looks right to me. at first it looked like u had it on backwards! but it looks fine.

Those spongey silicone flex hoses sometimes cause spiking because they expand and contract when under pressure. also those clamps look like they coule be a little tighter. i would replace the clamps with worm drive ones. if one of those come off when boosting and you dont notice 30psi and a dead engine here we come!

also i would get vacuum hose insted of the fancy bule stuff :)

hope this helps!

Also... are you getting the boost pressure strait from the turbo? it kinda looks like it, its been a while since i have looked at an mr2.

its prob best if you can get the boost strait from the compressor housing nipple.

;)

Hi guys,

I still have two payments 30/5 and 1/6 for $28 each that I can't match to a buyer because they failed to use the reference number I gave.

If you deposited on either of those days and still not received your controller please me what you wrote in as a reference or if you wrote nothing tell me your BSB number.

Cheers

Mark

well i finally installed mine today but had a bit of dramas myself with setting it up...

installation went fine. pretty easy, especially on the R32 as there are no solenoids etc to worry about

the hardest part was to get it to the right boost.

i wound it what i thought was almost out and it boosted over 1 bar

then i kept winding the screw back and eventually got it to the right boost

have not given the car a full test yet, but seems to hold the boost nicely in higher gears. not sure how it is in first gear, i think it only hits like 10psi in first, then up to 12psi in second and third.

but as i said, will give the car a better test soon

as for building boost, its almost instantaneous with the stock turbo! lag? where?

mark, that spring you used doesn't give much movement for those wanting only a 2-3psi difference... maybe you could use a "softer" spring?

Warren.

Im new here, so hollow dudes. just chequeing out your thoughts on Marks

little controller, must say they seem postive overall, so i ordered one to fit

on my 300zxtt, witch is currently running boost jets. boost jets are fitted

inside the wastegate vaccum lines,this fools the wastegates into opening less and later supplying more boost, i use weilding tips witch look like a

22 bullet with a hole through it. 1.2mm tip gives 10psi off boost constant.

cant see why these wouldnt work on skylines, cost is $5. some run a smaller tip

size 1mm .9 these smaller ones give more boost.

can't wait to test marks controller, the no spike bit, well we live in hope.

:uh-huh:

OK, I have set it up on my 33...

I decided to do it a little different to everyone else in that I have kept the solenoid in the picture, my resoning for this is that I can maintain the dual boost control. What I have done is wire a switch inside the cabin that intercepts the solenoid control wire off the ecu, and sends a earth signal to the solenoid. Essentially the ecu no longer has control of the solenoid.

What I now have is a low boost mode of 7psi and a high of 10psi. If I adjust the turbotech it increases or decreases both figures.

I installed the turbotech before the tee junction on the line that runs to the actuator. I had to remove a little a small little brass fitting in the line, I think it controls the boost, sounds kinda like the boost jets in the post above?

My pictures...

That's Ingenious!

why didnt i think of that! if my car used a solanoid to control boost thats ecactly what i would do.

Only problem is the boost delivery would not be linear.

does it boost then drop off and then boost again? using the solanoid?

Only problem is the boost delivery would not be linear.

does it boost then drop off and then boost again? using the solanoid?

Actually the boost delivery is perfect... it spools up a little quicker than before, and because the controller is before the solenoid, the solenoid only gets to see what the controller lets through.

The way I understand it, the ball and spring open at 10psi, with the solenoid open, it bleeds off 3psi, and with the solenoid closed it just maintains the 10psi the turbotech allowed through.

After thinking about it, the little brass fitting in the hose was probably just the right size to let the standard high boost of 7.5psi through, so esentially the system now just has an adjustable fitting.

Also, I will prob get some longer hose and try to move the controller out of sight... it stands out like the proverbial!!

Just read through the 8 pages on this thread ... sounds like a pretty good boost controller. Just wondering though, im thinking of raising my stock (FC3S rx7) boost (7.5psi) to around 10 psi. Seems as though most of the ppl who have purchased this controller are running around 14 psi or more. I want to make sure itll be able to make minor low range boost adjustments such as those from 7.5 to 10 psi. Dont wanna blow my rotor :)

Thanks in advanced,

Cheers

Just read through the 8 pages on this thread ... sounds like a pretty good boost controller. Just wondering though, im thinking of raising my stock (FC3S rx7) boost (7.5psi) to around 10 psi. Seems as though most of the ppl who have purchased this controller are running around 14 psi or more. I want to make sure itll be able to make minor low range boost adjustments such as those from 7.5 to 10 psi. Dont wanna blow my rotor   :D  

Thanks in advanced,

Cheers

If your worried about overboost, i asume you have boost gage, take it for a run

on straight bit off road, track is preferable, set turbotec on its lowest setting

and get it up round red line in third, note reading on boost gage, if the track

straight is long enough do the same in forth, cheque for spikeing! back off if this

occours!, you should now have a fairly good idea off the boost, at this lowest

setting. Some run high boost with stock ECU, 13/14psi on 30det motor, at this

higher boost, the stock fuel map starts to lean a little, and detonation is possible

although 30det runs very rich anyway on stock ECU.

set turbotec on its lowest setting  

and get it up round red line in third, note reading on boost gage, if the track  

straight is long enough do the same in forth, cheque for spikeing! back off if this  

occours!

Can someone please explain what spikeing is? I thought it was when you put your foot down and the boost reaches 1-2 psi over what it should be and then settles down to what it should be...

This last post would indicate that spikeing is when the boost gets higher with the revs... ei 7 psi at 5000 but increases to 9 psi at 6000rpm.

Please explain?

Thanks

BTW, I set my turbotech up as a bleed valve and seems to be working!

Can someone please explain what spikeing is?  I thought it was when you put your foot down and the boost reaches 1-2 psi over what it should be and then settles down to what it should be...

This last post would indicate that spikeing is when the boost gets higher with the revs... ei 7 psi at 5000 but increases to 9 psi at 6000rpm.

Please explain?

Thanks

BTW, I set my turbotech up as a bleed valve and seems to be working!

If you set the turbotec up as a bleeder, preasure drops in the range 1-2 psi

(for example)would be normal, as the valve opens at your dialed setting preasure bleeds off.

Spikeing would be the oppisite, although at low boost settings this isant

so bad, as boost setting increse, say 14-15psi the spike may reach 19-20psi this is not what you want happening to your expensive engine.

Whether you have a voltage spike, boost spike, etc its all the basically the same... Somthing is reading consistantly and smooth, then it rises and falls sharply in a short period of time. So in the case of boost, if your boost level rises and falls when it should be staying consistant, its a spike. In turbos its due to the wastegate being actuated in effectivly. And in most cases isnt a very serious problem because it only happens for a short period of time, and in most cases it only happens over a few psi as beaver said.

But the spike Beaver was talking about, he might have ment boost creep, and this is when the boost continues to rise above the desired or safe level. And this is caused by an ineffective wastegate. Whether its due to the gate being too small or not open enough, the result is the same. If your experiencing it because you installed a boost tap/bleed valve, then the bleed valve is allowing too much air to escape, and the wastegate actuator cannot open the gate.

Yep thats correct, boost creep, not spike, thanks for that correction!

and explaination,well put.

Yeah, I have boost creep then. Loosk like its not going over 10psi so it should be right. I will monitor. I have removed the turbotech and the solenoid in the mean time to see if it still creeps.

Got mine today and installed it...man what can i say...im impressed...didn't notice it spike at all, unlike my old shitty turbosmart one which spiked like no tomorrow, and boost seems to build quicker, and holds very well, think it only dropped like 0.5 psi at over 5000rpm. Can't wait to get it on the dyno to see the difference in the power curve beacuse of the different boost response. I'll keep yal posted as to how it goes. Great work by mark!

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