I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!

[CEF11E]

Hi guys im from the Uk and own a r33 gts t, ive been asking questions on other forums in the uk about this device, and have been advised on the following.....

is not advisable to allow the car to run the higher level of boost early in the rev range due to the ignition advance in the lower rpm range, removing the 2 stage boost control will allow the boost to run at .7bar from 2500 rpm and the ignition map will be too agressive to allow the engine to run without detonation.

Im not wishing to name names here but would just like to know what your opinion on this comment is.

Im not a mechanical wizard, and really just want to know the 2 sides of a coin so to speak.

Im just intriqued:)

What you say is true to a certain extent.

the r33 computer does provide more ignition advance lower down.

and you should NEVER increase the boost with a standard car without checking AFR's and ignition timing.

Having said that. i have never seen a probleb boosting a stock r33 to 10 psi.

[benl1981]

The ignition timing has a lot to do with the airflow. If it is getting higher airflow at the lower rpm then I would suggest that the ECU would not advance the timing as much.

[Spook's_Skyline]

i ran higher than standard boost (12psi) with stock ecu and had no dramas

[Thunderbolt]

Well I installed mine today. Had upgraded from a GFB bleeder. I also checked the knock levels on the PFC while testing the performance, it may have even been knocking slightly less with this controller. It still hooks up nicely, having full boost earlier dosen't produce any traction problems on my car.

One issue I found with my car, is that the vacuum hose that I had (believe it's the hose that came with the GFB bleeder) didn't fit well over the nipples, but had some spare slightly larger vacuum hose (blue) and that fitted beautifully.

ps. My car is SR20 180sx for those that don't know.

[Japtastic-UK]

I'm also from the UK and have been debating this device.

Surely if all you want to do is have 10 psi / 0.68 Bar at the lower rev range then just cut the wire advised here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=42895

12 psi = 0.82 bar and I am told this is unsafe for the turbo and will drasticaly reduce it's life and put strain on the engine and most definantly cause det, due to the reasons posted by my UK friend above.

If all this is true then surely this device is dangerous and a bit of a gamble.

If any can explain why it is ok then please tell me, I am only going on what I'm being told from the UK, pesonally I'd love to use the device but don't want to do so unless I'm confident the turo wont give way and I wont get det.

[CEF11E]

modding cars is allways a risk. running 12 psi is a calculated risk. from all the data gathered you have to make your own decision.

listen to others experience and follow it.

ofcorse you will use more fuel, shorten the life of a ceramic wheel turbo and so on if you don't tune your car properly.

But its like anything. I wouldnt run standard 92 octane petrol in my car and go boosting it everywhere because it is a risk.

but speaking from experience 12psi is "fairly" safe with a stock turbo. However, I have seen them die at standard boost. and i have also seen them running 17psi without failing.

the device is not dangerous, but yes like every aftermarket part you can buy for your car it is a bit of a gamble. but any device that increases boost presure is exactly the same.

as for the increased timing in the lower rev range promoting pinging at 12 psi with this controller, if you run premium fuel and standard base timing you should never have a problem.

in the end you have to make up your own mind...

it me it's not even an issue,

[Japtastic-UK]

Thanks for your opinion.

What octane fuel can you get over there?

We have 95, 97, 98 From Shell Optimax and some very rare places have 99 at a supermarket which has just been released.

[FATAZZ]

i think i use optimax 98 and/or Vortex 98

[Guilt-Toy]

99 octane.. nice!!!

im gettin one those devices. when i run 17psi boost it falls back down to 9psi i have major boost holding issues

[CEF11E]

Thanks for your opinion.

What octane fuel can you get over there?

We have 95, 97, 98 From Shell Optimax and some very rare places have 99 at a supermarket which has just been released.

Hi Japtastic, we have 92 octane unleaded and most cars use that. then we have 95 octane called premium unleaded. and then we have shell optimax 98 octane and also bp ultimate 98 octane.

I have also seen 100 octane fuel but it was an independant service station. we use 98 octane in performance cars here.

[INASNT]

Hi guys im from the Uk and own a r33 gts t, ive been asking questions on other forums in the uk about this device, and have been advised on the following.....

is not advisable to allow the car to run the higher level of boost early in the rev range due to the ignition advance in the lower rpm range, removing the 2 stage boost control will allow the boost to run at .7bar from 2500 rpm and the ignition map will be too agressive to allow the engine to run without detonation.

Im not wishing to name names here but would just like to know what your opinion on this comment is.

Im not a mechanical wizard, and really just want to know the 2 sides of a coin so to speak.

Im just intriqued:)

That 2 stage boost controller is there mainly i think to stop wheel spin in the lower gears.

[Japtastic-UK]

Tesco are going to roll this out all over the sountry soon hopefully, there is also talk of Shell bringing out 100 V-Power like they have in the rest of Europe.

[sl33ek]

Hey dudes

Sorry for interrupting

Bought one of these off ebay yesterday and am going to get my mechanic to install it on the weekend.

Just a question and sorry if its been asked before, but would the stock boost gauge be OK for testing?

Just in case I bought a boost gauge off ebay too.

My car currently has stock boost.

Dang, havn't even owned my Skyline for a week yet and I'm already after more boost!

[Andi]

Haha Gengis I'd drive your car a little while longer before boosting things. Just like a month or two to see the general condition of the car and if theres anything that needs attention or fixing first.

Well to answer your question, you're probably best installed the boost gauge at the same time and use that to see what boost your running.

[Japtastic-UK]

Standard boost gauge and standard oil pressure gauges are notoriously inaccurate, it would be stupid to try and rely on it to check boost while setting this device up, you'll simply end up with a broken skyline if you do.

[TokyoTaxi]

Feedback time and I'm hoping this will be taken as constructive feedback as that is how it's meant.

Well, I installed this bleed valve in my HCR32 yesterday and went out on a road test to adjust it ( keeping in mind that I'm running a HKS GT25/35 and 1.2 bar of boost ) I spent about 40 minutes out on the open road trying to tune it but this valve doesn't seem to suit my requirements because I couldn't find a way to make it work.

With the bolt ( adjuster ) screwed almost all the way out it was making 0.6 bar at best and with minor increments ( screwing in 1/4 turn at a time ) it was making no difference until 1 & 1/4 turns inwards. At this stage the boost spiked to 1.5 bar, fluctuated violently and then settled at 1.2 bar.

I went as far as pulling the valve off and pulling it apart to ensure that all was OK and then went through the whole process again with much the same results

I AM NOT saying this valve is bad but more stating that for higher boost applications, I found it to be unsuitable. If you're boosting a stocker, I'm confident that this valve would be good

In summary, if anyone would like to buy this one off me, let me know as I'll sell it for $20 plus postage. PM me if interested.

[Cubes]

Sounds like you got a dud.

Mine is actually very accurate with only the slightest adjustment varying boost.

I've had mine up to 15-16psi. Obviously I havent kept my foot in to it as she was leaning out in the top end due to small injectors.

[INASNT]

Feedback time and I'm hoping this will be taken as constructive feedback as that is how it's meant.

 

Well, I installed this bleed valve in my HCR32 yesterday and went out on a road test to adjust it ( keeping in mind that I'm running a HKS GT25/35 and 1.2 bar of boost ) I spent about 40 minutes out on the open road trying to tune it but this valve doesn't seem to suit my requirements because I couldn't find a way to make it work.

With the bolt ( adjuster ) screwed almost all the way out it was making 0.6 bar at best and with minor increments ( screwing in 1/4 turn at a time ) it was making no difference until 1 & 1/4 turns inwards. At this stage the boost spiked to 1.5 bar, fluctuated violently and then settled at 1.2 bar.

I went as far as pulling the valve off and pulling it apart to ensure that all was OK and then went through the whole process again with much the same results

I AM NOT saying this valve is bad but more stating that for higher boost applications, I found it to be unsuitable. If you're boosting a stocker, I'm confident that this valve would be good

In summary, if anyone would like to buy this one off me, let me know as I'll sell it for $20 plus postage. PM me if interested.

If your running a aftermarket turbo and other mods i wouldnt be relying on this type of manual boost controller. I would invest in a good ebc.

[TokyoTaxi]

If your running a aftermarket turbo and other mods i wouldnt be relying on this type of manual boost controller. I would invest in a good ebc.

Agreed and I will buy an EBC soon, but for the money, it was worth a try

[Bazelinez]

Mine is still running fine, it was holding perfect boost at 13PSI for 2 weeks, maybe varying half a pound.... Are you sure its installed right?

Too bad the car wasn't up to that boost and decided to backfire like a whore....

Back to 11PSI