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I've had another look today, does this look correct?

mbc03.jpg

I think I've got everything correct. I'll see if I can find someone with a basic bleed valve to borrow.

So can anyone see if I've gone wrong anywhere? Should I perhaps try and get the controller set up so the screw mechanism is sitting upright so the ball bearing doesn't run the risk of getting stuck?

I've emailed Mark but have not heard from him?

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Checked everything and even set up the controller so it was up the right way to make sure that the spring and ball bearing weren't getting caught up anywhere and still no difference.

I get 1.2 bar whether the controller screw is barely even wound in, being heldin place by the locking nut, or if I wind it in a bit too.

Hoses are all connected properly and doesn't appear to be any leaks. I'm at a loss now, a few people have looked at it and my installation seems fine.

I'm still trying to track down a bleed valve to see if it works correctly with my install. I've emailed Mark for advice on whether or not it might be a faulty unit and have heard nothing from him. Does anyone have a number for him or anything? I just want to get this sorted out.

I would doubt you have a faulty unit (although slightly possible) The units are pretty simple devices - not much can go wrong with them - may be a bad ball bearing or spring.... Just my 2c

Yeah I figured may be the spring or something, the housing is pretty basic and would be hard for anything to go wrong with that. That's why I'm trying to find someone with a basic bleed valve so I can test out my install.

It's just frustrating being that so many people have commented that my install looks correct, and the fact that i'm having troubles getting in contact with Mark to ask some questions regarding the unit and what could go wrong with it.

If anyone reading this is in Canberra and has a bleed valve I could borrow for a short time to test that would be great.

oh baby! love it LOL, cheapest thing i have bought for my car lately and it has given the best result for $$$ hehe :cheers:, i just hooked mine up to my GTR after a hefty search on the net for a method that worked...so much better to drive, boosts earlier, quicker, harder, excellent work...

I only have it set to .8bar at the moment, (it's quite tricky to tweak it only a little bit i found), and have noticed that it spikes to .9 then flattens out to .8 for the rest of the revs, anyone else noticed this or have this setup on a GTR?

mine arrived a few days ago and i installed it today. took existing t peice off, faced ball bearing to cooler pipe, other bit to actuator and screwed up the remaing hose which was going to the standard solenoid (i never knew what this did, but my setup seems to work). boost is coming on heaps harder as expected. i dont have a boost gague so going off standard which is saying 5ish hundred mm/HG. which is a lot since i have no mods not even an exhaust. so as expected im too worried to give it much...

but yeh, great product

Well I finally got it working, just simplified it like a few others and removed the t piece and bov hose and blocked the small hose going to the inlet, works great now, running 0.8 bar nicely and going hard. Great stuff especially for $30-40. A friend asked me how much it was and when I told him he couldn't beleive it!

Hey guys I'm using a GFB bleeder and I find that if I stomp on it at high RPM eg 5000rpm, like in the hills, it'll spike by upto 3 psi (ie from 15--> 18psi) for a split moment. This causes my engine to ping a bit. Will the Turbotech help reduce this spiking? Otherwise the GFB is not a bad unit...

Hey guys I'm using a GFB bleeder and I find that if I stomp on it at high RPM eg 5000rpm, like in the hills, it'll spike by upto 3 psi (ie from 15--> 18psi) for a split moment. This causes my engine to ping a bit. Will the Turbotech help reduce this spiking? Otherwise the GFB is not a bad unit...

Hi Busky,

the amount of guys that have purchased my turbotech to replace GFB's is ridiculous. GFB's are bleeders and although they can alter boost, they can't control it as they are not gated. You try so hard to get boost, why the hell would you want to bleed it off!! They are just a gadget designed by people who dont really understand boost.

Being a gated controller, spike is minimal as noted so many times in previous threads. Some experience a little bit while others experience no spike at all.

Also, I apologise for lack of input in the thread lately Iv'e been damn flat out.

Mark Williams

Turbotech

[email protected]

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey guys I'm using a GFB bleeder and I find that if I stomp on it at high RPM eg 5000rpm, like in the hills, it'll spike by upto 3 psi (ie from 15--> 18psi) for a split moment. This causes my engine to ping a bit. Will the Turbotech help reduce this spiking? Otherwise the GFB is not a bad unit...

Hi Busky,

the amount of guys that have purchased my turbotech to replace GFB's is ridiculous. GFB's are bleeders and although they can alter boost, they can't control it as they are not gated. You try so hard to get boost, why the hell would you want to bleed it off!! They are just a gadget designed by people who dont really understand boost.

Being a gated controller, spike is minimal as noted so many times in previous threads. Some experience a little bit while others experience no spike at all.

Also, I apologise for lack of input in the thread lately Iv'e been damn flat out.

Mark Williams

Turbotech

[email protected]

Got one of these for my R33 GTS-T 2.5, hope to fit it next week.

Anyone got pics of an install that works well, & still using the std boost solenoid. Would like if possible to run a switch inside to switch the std solenoid open/closed, so I can run a lower boost on long journeys.

Dancn - how'd you go with that - I just email mark asking exactly the same question..

Has anyone set this up on an R33 with the dual stage boost solenoid??

Wouldn't mind using it so it goes from 8psi -> 10psi when >4,500rpm

Guest tkch55

Yeah i'm just wondering about that too

the only thing i'm concerned about is boost spike

logically, this controller doesn't spike, nor does the factory bleeder

so hence u wouldn't get boost spike if used together?

but i remember reading from previous posts that this setup will cause it to spike... dunno but will check it out

Guest tkch55

here's some results with the boost controller used in conjunction with the standard solenoid

i've t'ed the standard solenoid to the vacume line today on my r33, with the solenoid t'ed after the controller

i had to adjust the controller to the loosest, which still gave max 7psi at low boost

at high boost ie, after 5000rpm, it went all the way to 12/13 psi (which is 600ish mmhg going by the stock gauge) and it starts to misfire rapidly, i'm guessing it's overfueling or the spark's not strong enough since i've only got platinums @ 1.1 standard gap, just put in a month ago (from my memory)

and the engine sounds quite stressed at 5000+rpm, if anyone's got or had an r32, it's like revving a stock rb20det past 7000 rpm (rev lim on r32 is around 8200 from memory)

it feels like the engine's out of breath

my car's only got 3.5 inch turbo back exhaust, a blitz panel filter and an untuned safc, tho i guess it might be possible to tune out the possible overfueling with safc, the rough top-end was what made me decide to unplug the stock solenoid for now

in conclusion, without the supportive mods, such as fmic, aftermarket computer, fuel pump, maybe the coil packs or even an aftermarket turbo, i wouldn't really recommend doing so

In regards to series 1 R33's... after adding my turboback zorst, to go with my cooler, apexi pod, and the boost controller. My ecu was going into rich and retard, the controller was set to max 10psi, tried lowering the boost which helped a bit, but currently have the controller sitting in my garage awaiting some aftermarket management.

Apparently series ones are the worst, and apparently mine's a bit worse than usual, as its still running mega rich even on stock boost.

Before installing the exhaust I also removed the solenoid and my dual boost setup as I found I never used low boost anyway... I also found that what CEF11E said about my initial setup to be correct, I just never noticed it. It did boost up to the high boost and then drop down and hold low boost, but I only noticed this when my foot was hard to the floor, gentle everyday driving never revealed this. Silly me should have thrashed both high and low, but I only ever drove hard with high boost.

If someone wants to test this, I can't as my computer is retarded, maybe try installing the controller after the tee junction... it may correct the boost delivery, any one else care to comment? Not CEF11E sayin I told you so...

:)

Cheers tkch55,

This is quite interesting as at the fully open setting I was under the impression that these would just deliver stock boost levels however it appears that the spring must have quite a pressure on the ball even when just slightly in..

A jump from 7psi -> 12/13psi is huge (5/6psi).. obviously it doesn't work in a linear fashion as you would thing e.g. 7psi -> 10psi.

I might just cut the solenoid wire and leave it at 8psi for the moment rather than 10psi with a solenoid.

Thanks for that..

hardest part is working out where to put it - i'll check the setup out tonight and have a think about it..

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