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Guest tkch55

i'm guessing that the reason why there's such great variation of boost is because the turbotech controller does bleed a bit of air through the tiny hole, in addition to that, when the solenoid works to bleed air it bleeds off even more, hence the great jump of boost after 5000rpm..

and don't cut the solenoid wire to disable it, u can just simply unplug it

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Guest tkch55

well, the thought of having gone through the trouble of hooking up the standard solenoid, but had to disconnect it in the end, made me think the whole day at work of ways to make it work and it was quite irritating. (shows u how boring work is)

until something came across my mind, it was one of the Sydneykid's previous post about the jaycar's ebc and dfa in the stagea section, i remember reading something about the resistor in the line is what makes the min boost higher.

so i double checked that thread again to confirm the information and i had an idea.

i do remember seeing such resister in the line that comes from the intercooler piping, so i took the resister out, replugged the solenoid and took the car out for a spin

now, the boost setting before the resister was taken out, was 10psi all the way to redline (with solenoid disconnected).

after the resister was taken out, solenoid re-connected, with no adjustments to the controller, the boost decreased to 7 psi, and at 5000+rpm the boost jumped slightly to 8 psi

so yes it is possible to have the dual stage boost using the stock solenoid without the wild increase in boost, you just have to take the resister out of the line. best way to take it out is to use a thin screwdriver and poke it out

note, due to the increased airflow in the line, you also need to re-adjust the boost controller. seems like the boost controller also gets less sensitive, so before u may only have to just dial in 1/4 of a turn to increase 1psi, after taking the resister out, you'll have to dial maybe 1/3 or more to increase 1 psi.

remember the solenoid must be T'ed after the controller, once it's setup properly, you'll be laughing..

Guest tkch55

hey links, the link to SK's post is http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...pic=61207&st=40, it's one of his posts on 1/2/05.

as for the location of the restrictor, take off the line attached to the black intercooler pipe, and u'll find it there, i think sydneykid's post also tells you where it is

i'll post up a picture of my setup tonight after i go home, if i don't go home too late

Guest tkch55
Cheers - restrictor, thought you said resesitor :P...

i'll check out the post..

ahh... yeah i typed out that post really late at night so it might be just my typo. tho i was sleepy as hell but i was too excited that i finally got it working so i had to post it up

Guest tkch55

hi links, here's my setup, the yellow bit is where the resistor is, you have to take that out

at the moment the car runs max 8psi @<5000 and 11psi @ 5000+, with no boost spikes (haven't got an aftermarket boost gauge so i'm just going by the stock gauge readings)

Awesome mate - thanks for that.. glad you got it working - i'm keen to up it a little bit - just to give myself a bit more of go. Don't have a front mount though - so i'll do it during winter than prob get rid of it in summer to keep the temperatures down..

I'm waiting for mark to get back to me and i'll order one..

mark if your on here - check your email..

Hey all,

Can anyone give me some driving impressions when using this product? Mainly interested in part throttle response - how agressively does it boost on part throttle?

The reason I ask is that my 18 year old P-plate brother occasionally drives my car, and I dont want the thing rapidly boosting mid corner with small throttle movements and him wrapping my baby around a tree.

Cheers in advance for your responses.

I wouldn't say its any different to how factory boost builds up (on R32) direct from wastegate to turbo.

To be honest after reading all these reports I thought I would notice a big difference.. But I am not finding much difference between it and the Turbosmart I decided to replace with this one to try out.

Its maybe a bit better, but its not like I am going "oh wow what a difference".

I am going electronic so I am selling my one that I purchased through this thread. $25 posted. About 3 months old, was running 10psi.

Any offers PM me.

Edit: Sorry should have put this in the for sale section.

Edited by emanuelt

Hi all,

Just thought I'd report in my initial results after installing a turbotech on my r33.

Firstly the install took about 45 minutes. That was taking my sweet ass time doing it properly and replaceing all the standard hoses from the wastegate, solonoid and boost hose.. Ok I left the solonoid in the mix as pictured above and removed the restrictor as well.

I locked the nut on the boost controller straight away out of its packet. Ok all was installed and looked right, lets go for a drive.

Took her up the road gently at first. Got into 3rd gear without hittin boost then starting playing around. Boost certainly builds quicker. Its a little hard to tell how much by what rpm, but i can definately say it is sitting on half way between 0 and +7 on the stock bost gauge. So lets say about 7psi by at least 2800 rpm..

OK now the bit that suprised me was at 4500 rpm+ the boost did not really increase. Spiked up maybe 1-1.5psi ( hard to tell on stock gauge) and then leveld back out on or ever os slightly above the line reading 7psi... SO maybe as the solonoid opened to bleed more boost I gained 1 PSI only. I have not revved it out to redline yet so we'll see.

Now the other funny thing is at 4500+ rpm it almost feels like shes about to get up and boogie but then it feels like it losses some power. I guess thats the little raise in boost and then leveling back out.

Ok my suporting mods are nothing bar a catback..

I'd be interested to hear from others who have kept the solonoid in the mix as I must admitt I was expecting the boost to raise a little more after the solonoid opens up to bleed boost.

Anyhow time for another test run..

Oh yeah one other thing, u can hear the turbo spooling up better and more stock BOV noise..

Cheers

Guest tkch55

hi there, i did go through some drama before i got it to run properly..

i might not be able to address all your problems, but i'll post what i did in detail

OK now the bit that suprised me was at 4500 rpm+ the boost did not really increase. Spiked up maybe 1-1.5psi ( hard to tell on stock gauge) and then leveld back out on or ever os slightly above the line reading 7psi... SO maybe as the solonoid opened to bleed more boost I gained 1 PSI only. I have not revved it out to redline yet so we'll see.

when i set it on 7psi, it only gained around 1-2 psi at 4500+, so your result is the same as mine although i had no spikes at all

i even went to the extent of asking my friend to drive the car while i check the boost to see if there's any spikes

maybe check for leaks in the lines, or maybe the screw on the controller is too loose so air is escaping from the controller

Now the other funny thing is at 4500+ rpm it almost feels like shes about to get up and boogie but then it feels like it losses some power. I guess thats the little raise in boost and then leveling back out.

i think u've hit the famous flat spot generated by the stock ecu

it did happen to me when i had the lower rpm boost set to 10 psi used in conjunction with the solenoid, even with safc knocking out 5% fuel at 4000-4600 rpm.

this is my current setting: the lower rpm boost is set at 8 psi, boost rises to around 11 psi at higher rpm, with no flat spot, no rich and retard, even at high load (full throttle uphill). with a very conservatively tuned safc

(still running a bit rich)

be careful when you set the boost, i tried upping it a bit by dialing the boost controller in by a quarter turn on top of the 8 psi setting, my car would run into the rich and retard zone at higher load (ie, uphill), again this is with a tuned SAFC.

my suggestion with setting your boost is starting from the lowest setting you can get with the controller (7psi in my case), use a long uphill to test it, try to full throttle it @3000 rpm on third gear. also try full throttle on 2nd gear but rev it to 7000 just to double check. if it's fine, dial it in by 1/4 of a turn and try again until you eventually feel the R&R (its like choking) or the flat spot, then dial back 1/4~1/2 of a turn

but just for your reference, i had to dial in a few full turns after my initial setup at 7 psi @ <4500 rpm (n that's barely dialed in at all) to reach 8 psi@ <4500 rpm, after 8 psi, another half a turn is about 1 psi

it takes time, but be patient, you want to get the best out of your car while it's still as reliable as stock.

here's also something that's also good to know while you're setting the boost

the R&R of stock ecu doesn't always save engine from pinging, i still heard a very slight ping @ approx 3500 rpm when i used to run 11 psi without solenoid and untuned safc, the fuel map of the stock ecu isn't up for that much airflow at that sort of rpm, sometimes R&R follows straight after a bit of ping but sometimes it doesn't, so back off the throttle straight away if you hear anything weird or felt any jerkyness

Ok my suporting mods are nothing bar a catback..

catbacks don't do much, i suggest you to at least get a dump pipe too, u can feel that the engine breathes better/ smoother at higher rpm, especially if you raise the boost of your car

an fmic would also be nice. i don't have a fmic at the moment either. but i guess once i find some time to install it i might have to fine tune the setup again as the intake air will be denser

hope this helps

Guest tkch55

and to answer your question, if you dial the boost in a bit more then you shall see a greater increase in the second stage boost

also, it seems like the second stage boost comes in quite linear, unlike the stock setting (without the controller), where the second stage boost feels more like a sudden increase (like on/off action, from my memory, tho the stock setup was altered since a long time ago)

So, do you think I should try and up it a little to try and even out on 8 psi before 4500rpm. Will this be ok for the stock setup considering at >4500rpm i may see upto 11psi?.. Keeping in mind that my car only see's greater the 4500rpm a few times a week..

Sounds safe enough to me as long as it doesn't ping..

Also i know its hard, but 8 psi on the stock gauge would be like 1-1.5 mm over the line between 0 and 7 on the stock gauge.. Sound about right?

OK, I cranked it up a 1/4 turn. You can feel it boost a little harder and it is now reading arround eight psi on the stock gauge. Thats about 1-1.5 mm over the half way line..

Now when it gets to 4500 rpm the boost certainly does pick up slightly with no hesitation like before. When running at 7psi when it got to 4500rpm it felt like a flat spot and even a miss when in second gear.

Now at 8psi when it hits 4500rpm the power keeps constant and raises with boost.

Not 100% sure yet but i know i am getting at least a 2 psi raise after 4500rpm

So all together i am happy with this valve. Even in first now its easy to get on boost where as wit6h the stock set up as you al know u really have to punch it in first to see some boost.

Guest tkch55

good to hear that you've got it working, around 1mm above the 7psi line is approx 8 psi.

your result sounds exactly like mine, and the stage 2 boost should be an increase of more than 2 psi, at s2 boost it definitely is more than half way between the 350mmhg line and 700 mmhg line, so i just assumed it's 11 psi.

I have only been for a quick terst drive so far but i think i saw the stock gauge go upto about half way between 3.5 and 7 on the stock gauge after 4500rpm. Sought of though "shit hope it stops" and yes it did.. Makes u wish u had better mods\tuning so u could up it more..

Also took it to 4500+ rpm in 2nd and 3rd and it seem to raise, but as u know if saturday traffic its not the best time to go to 4500rmp in 2nd with traffic..will have a better test somewhere safer later on.

tkch55 our results seem almost identical etc for a few mods.. thanks for ur help.

Edited by Blue_R32

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