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I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!

CEF11E

By CEF11E,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Nozila Grand Master

Nozila

Posted
Posted

well i couldnt wait so i installed the bleedvalve not long ago and took the car for a fang. initial impressions are that revs build up alot fast and smoother - dont know how, but most importantly it holds the pressure bloodly well. best $35 ive spent at this stage it beats my profec a ebc which needed to learn boost curves yaada yadaa. but with this one, its just straight on, set and drive. one happy chappy, cheers mark.

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Nozila Grand Master

Nozila

Posted
Posted

i just installed mine this arvo, went for a thrashing. i noticed when i stepped on the pedal (3rd gear) it pulled from 3'thou rpm to about 7'thou with no signs of boost drops or spikes. i didnt adjust it yet, as it came pre-adjusted and the reading on the boost guage was 0.7bar = 10ish psi?

Nozila Grand Master

Nozila

Posted
Posted

anyways here a pic of the install as i noticed some people had difficulties determining what went here :unsure:

this bleedvalve is on a sr20 but i dont think it make a difference to what car it is. one line goes to actuator and the other goes to intake pipe.

post-1473-1128420587.jpg

Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
Posted

so let me get this straight.....

With this controller you can only INCREASE boost......

The reason im asking is my R32 is running 13psi and this uses more fuel and creates more heat then i would want..... i want to put it on about 10 for the street and raise it for the track.....

Is this possible?

Coupe-This Grand Master

Coupe-This

Posted
Posted

Cant you just use ur right foot to control boost? if u want two different settings i would suggest you get a different setup. Something with a high/low switch or something like that.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

lol.. Use your foot, its not like the rb20det is known for its early boost build. :D

For the track you would want it the other way around.

Less boost for the track, more for the street.

Having a higher boost on the street is much much safer and creates much less heat than the lower boost would at the track.

Edited by Cubes
Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
Posted

i wouldnt mind a hi low switch but i dont see any going for $35......

I dont mind a minute or so under the bonnet.....

Cubes... sorry to sound blunt but how is this so? higher boost creates less heat?? yet uses more petrol tho?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

Keeping on the throttle for long periods of time is what creates high heat; that and poor tuning (retarded ign. timing and lean afrs)

Fit a highlow you will find it a novelty, after a couple of weeks you will leave it on high and use your foot to control boost.

Controlling boost with the right foot is a very easy thing to do, especially with the rb20det as its a little sluggy to make decent boost. i.e 3000-3500rpm and a decent amount of throttle. :D

Edited by Cubes
Wobbz Contributor

Wobbz

Posted
Posted
Keeping on the throttle for long periods of time is what creates high heat; that and poor tuning (retarded ign. timing and lean afrs)

Fit a highlow you will find it a novelty, after a couple of weeks you will leave it on high and use your foot to control boost.

Controlling boost with the right foot is a very easy thing to do, especially with the rb20det as its a little sluggy to make decent boost. i.e 3000-3500rpm and a decent amount of throttle. :)

You mean advanced ign. timing... ;)

Longer burn = more energy produced = more power = more heat !

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

Retarded ignition timing creates high EGT's and essentially makes everything hotter.

Just did a quick google to provide you with a link.

Improper timing - increase in EGT means retarded ignition, decrease means advanced ignition.

http://www.grumman.net/~n4170n/EGTTroubleshootingTable.html

Edited by Cubes
Wobbz Contributor

Wobbz

Posted
Posted
Retarded ignition timing creates high EGT's and essentially makes everything hotter.

Just did a quick google to provide you with a link.

http://www.grumman.net/~n4170n/EGTTroubleshootingTable.html

Advancing the ign. will have the same effect, primarily on the internal combustion temperatures (a more direct effect than EGT). This is also why advancing your timing too much causes "pinging" (usually combined with lean AFR's).

I'd be less worried about retarded timing than advanced timing... EGT's wouldn't jump by a huge amount (although they would increase, as more fuel would be burning in the exhaust side)... i'd mainly worry about oxygen sensors and cats, which would die quicker as a result of the increased temps. I'd imagine the increase in charge temperature (being that the turbo would get a bit hotter) would be pretty small if you had a decent intercooler!

:(

Just my 2 cents... I see where you are coming from though.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

So what is it then?

You would rather what? Tune lean run less ignition timing?

or tune a little richer and run more ignition timing?

I am talking about a whole package, not just playing with ignition timing or just with fuel.

Consider most hipo motors, how they are tuned.

They don't lean the suckers out and run stuff all ignition timing, they tend to run them richer and keep the ignition timing in there, especially around peak torque.

Obviously if you dial in too much fuel you will see egt temps climb due to what is known as afterburn. Its a balancing act, if you really hammer the car around the local track I would definitely consider investing in an egt temp guage. Its the only way to achieve the safest tune.

I should also mention the japs tend to tune a little richer and run a little more ignition timing in their drift cars.

I've done quite a bit of research in to the theory of tuning and feel I have quite a good idea what is going on.

A richer tune that allows a little more ignition timing is a safer tune.

EDIT: ESPECIALLY for ceramic turbine turbo's.

:(

Edited by Cubes
Andi Experienced

Andi

Posted
Posted

That makes alot of sense Cubes. Will take that into consideration when I get mine tuned. So instead of the usualy 11.8:1 - 12.1:1 AFR people are aiming at, if you have ignition control as well you reckon something like 11.5:1 with advancements in timing is better?

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