Jump to content
SAU Community

I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!

CEF11E

By CEF11E,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

just make the hole where cubes said.

Mine has the pin hole directly opposite the nipple that feeds the wastegate actuator, so smack in the middle.

here's a pic

imgp1962ori6zn.jpg

lol...as you can tell, i'm quite keen to see if this fixes the lag :)

Thunderbolt Rising Star

Thunderbolt

Posted
Posted

It may not be the contoller that is causing the "lag". Lag between gears is normally because of long intercooler pipes. When you change gears the air gets released from the system, and has to travel all the way along the intake system again. This cannot happen instantly, so you may feel some lag. This is one of the reasons why the V-mount intercooler systems are so popular in Japan.

dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted
It may not be the contoller that is causing the "lag". Lag between gears is normally because of long intercooler pipes. When you change gears the air gets released from the system, and has to travel all the way along the intake system again. This cannot happen instantly, so you may feel some lag. This is one of the reasons why the V-mount intercooler systems are so popular in Japan.

I've got a blitz LM front mount...pipes are shorter than all the hybrid/trust/hks etc kits....

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
It may not be the contoller that is causing the "lag". Lag between gears is normally because of long intercooler pipes. When you change gears the air gets released from the system, and has to travel all the way along the intake system again. This cannot happen instantly, so you may feel some lag. This is one of the reasons why the V-mount intercooler systems are so popular in Japan.

Lag caused by a boost controller not releasing the pressure between the boostcontroller and actuator cannot be mistaken.

As you grab the next gear boost comes on really really slowly and smoothly. It sucks. :no:

R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
Posted
It may not be the contoller that is causing the "lag". Lag between gears is normally because of long intercooler pipes. When you change gears the air gets released from the system, and has to travel all the way along the intake system again. This cannot happen instantly, so you may feel some lag. This is one of the reasons why the V-mount intercooler systems are so popular in Japan.

Yes front mount systems add some lag to the setup but i feel that it is more throttle response rather than on gear changes at WOT that it effects. A simple test is just remove the boost controller and put a tee piece back in or a line straight from the ic piping to the actuator and you will see that the boost response is much better on changes-basically instantanious - hence the controller is causing the wastegate to stay open too long...

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
Posted

I brought one recently and it doesn't have the little hole in it. I don't get that lag everyone is talking about, I don't have an FMIC though with long piping. It does seem to drop of boost significantly (3psi or more) at high RPM though, but I assume this is something else, not the Turbotech MBC.

Anyway I've ordered the Apexi Boost controlle for the Power FC so I will give that a go.

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

that's pretty normal... 2nd of feb was a friday, so the money wouldn't have hit the account until about 6th or 7th . Gotta make it then, and then send it out, so probably not enough time to receive by today. Don't worry you'll probably get it mid-late next week some time. He's just a one-man-band.

n0nac Contributor

n0nac

Posted
Posted

well all is well, its sweet as to drive boost hits hard much harder than factory settup.

but the only downfall is that it looses boost up top. i have it set at 14 pound atm. and when it drops off up in the high revs it goes to 11-12 pound... so not too bad it still pulls.

definatly an improvement!!!!

next thing i will buy is an EBC but untill then im happy with this

even tho i had to drill the hole my self... grrr....

n0nac Contributor

n0nac

Posted
Posted

yes, drill the hole.

cuz if you dont it keeps your wastegate open when you change gears and it lags like a mo-fo.

so you need to drill the hole to let teh extra pressure in the line between the actuator and the BC out.

my 1.1mm hole works just fine, so id say anything around that size would be good :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, while being... strictly unnecessary. Tuning is a bit like quantum physics. You don't need to understand what Schroedinger's equation actually means. You just need to run the computation and accept the answers. With tuning, you just push page up/down until the exhaust tells you that you've got the fuel right. The VE can stay hidden behind the curtain like the Wizard of Oz and you'll never need to know what he looked like.
    • joshuaho96
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The second part yes, the first part about easy VE calculation is something I've seen a few people talk about online.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You 100% could do that, would save money on a gym membership lol. But yeah, getting a cordless orbital sander will feel priceless coming from doing it manually.  Good luck with it mate
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I initially was going to do the whole car with a block then realised, it would be a bigger monster of the job 😂 I guess that's all part of the learning process. I appreciate all that advice, I think I got a good idea on how to tackle this whole job.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I admire your efforts with the scuff pad.  As a mere mortal, I use this for the baulk of my sanding work- https://sydneytools.com.au/product/milwaukee-m18bos125-0-18v-li-ion-cordless-125mm-5-random-orbital-sander-skin-only Yes you can easily create a low spot while sanding. There are 2 types of filler, 1 part of 2 part. The 2 part filler will get used for large corrections and the 1 part filler will get used for pin holes and areas that only need slight filling.  Depending on how zealous you are with the sander (very easy to do with a power tool) or if you are chasing rust etc, yes those low spots will need to get filled or you will end up with a very obvious defects in the paint.  Using the guide coat and large sanding block, high and low areas will be revealed (watch youtube videos for a good visual on this). Its up to you if you think its worth the effort to make the car completely flat before you spray it (you make it flat by filling the low areas).  At the end of the day, it comes down to time. The end result comes from the level of prep put in to the car. If you want a perfect result, you have to put in the time during the prep stage or else it will be impossible to achieve a perfect result during the spraying process. 
×
×
  • Create New...