Jump to content
SAU Community

I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!

CEF11E

By CEF11E,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

mike_a31 Contributor

mike_a31

Posted
Posted

It may seem strange but i was having problems with mine havin varied boost levels while driving, i have since then mounted the MBC vertical as b4 it was on its side kinda tucked down the back of the power steering resvoir. Since mounting it vertical i have noticed no more vaired boost levels, smashes straight up to 15psi and holds there strong.

Murry33 Experienced

Murry33

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've got one of these boost controllers for about 3 months now, works excellent i don't notice any spikes either as long as you tightened the bolt at the top properly and make sure it's connected firmly it should be working fine.

i have it mounted vertically too.

Edited by NeesaanGTS
RB32 Collaborator

RB32

Posted
Posted
I've got one of these boost controllers for about 3 months now, works excellent i don't notice any spikes either as long as you tightened the bolt at the top properly and make sure it's connected firmly it should be working fine.

i have it mounted vertically too.

but can you guys lower your boost level to .5 bar if u wish??

jake33 Experienced

jake33

Posted
Posted (edited)
but can you guys lower your boost level to .5 bar if u wish??

yes i can. on the last thread or 2 it holds perfectly at 7psi. :laugh: got a R33

as i screw down more (although very sensitive... screwed down 2 rotations and it went up to 16 :rofl: ) up the boost goes. such an amazing little peice of work :laugh::P:P .

i set mine to 9psi (no fmic yet) and it holds boost between gear changes(i.e when shifting at full boost it will only lower to about 6 or 7 then hit straight back up to 9), feels heaps smoother comming on to boost compared to my old gfb which was set at 10 and seemed very laggy. full credit to the guy who makes them. works perfect. (came with the the hole already drilled)

i documented the install from the GFB to the turbotech over 3 photos. (photos are massive 1600 x 1200, forgot to change the setting)

post-35246-1173234652.jpg

post-35246-1173234719.jpg

post-35246-1173234773.jpg

Edited by jake33
siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
Posted (edited)

Jake33- I had exactly the same boost controller as you (GFBs in black)

anyways i found that controller to spike heaps past a certain point. But then again that controller was hard to figure out which way to turn with the alen key..

Im now using this cheap 22 buck one.. Does the jon fine.. Set mine at 0.8bar.. Spikes to nearly 1 bar on cold days in 2nd gear if i push it..

Otherwise its pretty constant..

Have you guys earth the black wire? I heard it will help a bit with the smoothness when you spool up..

Overall im happy with the 22buck controller..

-----------

Quick question...

If you put the controller in the wrong way, it wont boost at all? Or you cant turn up the boost?

What happens?

Cheers

Edited by siddr20
Xander Apprentice

Xander

Posted
Posted
Jake33- I had exactly the same boost controller as you (GFBs in black)

anyways i found that controller to spike heaps past a certain point. But then again that controller was hard to figure out which way to turn with the alen key..

Im now using this cheap 22 buck one.. Does the jon fine.. Set mine at 0.8bar.. Spikes to nearly 1 bar on cold days in 2nd gear if i push it..

Otherwise its pretty constant..

Have you guys earth the black wire? I heard it will help a bit with the smoothness when you spool up..

Overall im happy with the 22buck controller..

-----------

Quick question...

If you put the controller in the wrong way, it wont boost at all? Or you cant turn up the boost?

What happens?

Cheers

If you put this device in the wron way, the wastgate will not open. In other words not a good idea. Just remember pipe from the intercooler goes to the bottom of the device and the pipe from the side goes to the wastgate.

I have one of these boost controllers, it holds boost really well. I run 10 psi on the street and 12 psi for the track. With the piggy back computer I run it works really well.

scooter_r33 Contributor

scooter_r33

Posted
Posted
I have one of these boost controllers, it holds boost really well. I run 10 psi on the street and 12 psi for the track. With the piggy back computer I run it works really well.

Xander, what piggy back computer are you using?

Thunderbolt Rising Star

Thunderbolt

Posted
Posted
Has anyone else noticed some oily residue around the small hole on their turbotech? Whats causing this and is it something to be concerned about?

I am guessing that you probably don't have a catch can?

Does the boost controller line come off the intercooler pipe?

If you answered yes to the above question, then you would probably find that the intercooler pipes have a film of oil on them and that you are getting a fair amount of blow-by.

roy33 Collaborator

roy33

Posted
Posted
I am guessing that you probably don't have a catch can?

Does the boost controller line come off the intercooler pipe?

If you answered yes to the above question, then you would probably find that the intercooler pipes have a film of oil on them and that you are getting a fair amount of blow-by.

yeah i noticed the same thing on mine was wondering if the seal on the turbo was going?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • soviet_merlin
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So my car is finally back from paint! This took an absolutely insane amount of work and should get it's own build thread - but I didn't build it. It was completed by Troy @ https://scalekustoms.com.au/ I originally bought the AOSHIMA URAS Type R kit while I was in Japan, it's supposed to look like this when assembled: Now, I thought that was cool enough until I opened the box with Dismay, as there's no way I could possibly have completed it. The thing is 1/24 and has details down to the steering wheel horn button, which is a 2mm diameter sticker. I originally wondered if someone could make it at all, as is - But then things got a little carried away. It's worth noting that the model does not have an openable bonne, let alone engine bay, OR an openable boot. - Troy has worked wonders with 3D printer and presumably better eyes than I will ever have. My photos suck, so I will post up some of his in-progress ones he sent to me during the way. Unsuprisingly, he is very detailed. A lot of these are out of order. But he: 1) Made a LS engine and an engine bay appear out of thin air 2) Made the bonnet removable 3) Printed the rims I will buy in the future (or any rim you want) 4) Printed and added the wing that is going on 5) Tinted my back windows as this is what my car has IRL (privacy glass) 6) Added a licence plate. 7) Somehow did the interior 8) 3D Printed my actual seats 9) Made the exhaust under the car connect even though this is likely invisible. 10) Created a boot with my fking battery box, power steering reservoir, subwoofer and toolboxes back there. To say it's insane is an understatement. And I f**ked it all up because when I was re-mounting the wing (it broke in transit) I spilled glue everywhere and ripped paint up and Gregged the rear half of the car. Which about makes sense. Also, this arrived on the same day. Quite the change from: I spent 16 hours per day over the next 3 days pre-christmas putting the interior back together, mounting lip, fixing various bodykit problems with window mouldings, etc. and servicing, rebuilding my 370z brakes to go on the car 'soon', messing with heights to check clearances for new wheels, etc. I also had a foray into mounting wiper-mounted washer jets which was an absolute disaster. The bodyshop has welded (and painted) over the stock jet locations for reasons unknown to everybody (i.e they forgot) I also wanted to wire in the oil pressure sensor on Christmas Eve which was a BAD IDEA. You do not know terror like pulling your ECU apart, pinning in half-fitting pins that aren't the right ones, but trying anyway because it's Christmas eve, putting your ECU back together and having a no-start condition with a fuel pump not priming. Then you undo all your work and the fuel pump still doesn't prime. So after all that terror and horror and pain and tedious disassembly, the issue was the relay in the boot which seems to have died/stuck when I was turning the car off and on about 700 times testing shitty washer jets. I also re-wired the fuel pump power plug which fell apart in my hands. I am very happy I had 3 extra pre-made ones from a few posts/last Christmas's breakdown. https://bluewireautomotive.com/products/10-x-pcm-ecm-ecu-terminals I have put an order for these in, so I can actually add the pins to the ECU properly. The commodore ECU does not have the pins for Oil Pressure via ODB2. However the ECU can support it if you create the pins and wire them in. So for round two, and somehow attempting to route that into the engine bay through my impossible engine bay grommet is a fight for another day. It's 40C in Melbourne tomorrow, I am half tempted to drive the car with the aircon on to deliver presents to my partner's family and see if it helps with the overheating-on-40C-days-in-traffic-with-aircon-on-only issue that the vents were intended to solve. Do I feel lucky?
    • GTSBoy
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, while being... strictly unnecessary. Tuning is a bit like quantum physics. You don't need to understand what Schroedinger's equation actually means. You just need to run the computation and accept the answers. With tuning, you just push page up/down until the exhaust tells you that you've got the fuel right. The VE can stay hidden behind the curtain like the Wizard of Oz and you'll never need to know what he looked like.
    • joshuaho96
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The second part yes, the first part about easy VE calculation is something I've seen a few people talk about online.
×
×
  • Create New...