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I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!

CEF11E

By CEF11E,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted
Yeah I did at one point because a "mechanic" thought it was a bleed valve, but I've popped the ball out of the bottom before I took the play out of the spring and put it back in. I still can't get it to run low boost. :D

How many psi is the actuator rated at?

Try taking the boost controller out and run the line straight to the actuator. Maybe your actuator isn't opening the wastegate thus the boost keeps rising.

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90GT4 Rookie

90GT4

Posted
Posted (edited)
How many psi is the actuator rated at?

Try taking the boost controller out and run the line straight to the actuator. Maybe your actuator isn't opening the wastegate thus the boost keeps rising.

I don't have a clue hey.

That will just be the same as before I put it in??? I'll do it if you think I should I was thinking about taking it out anyway, but what else would I do?

Edited by 90GT4
RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted

Did you disable/remove the stock boost controller?

You have to remove your stock boost controller and use the turbotech in it's place. It's not a good idea to have 2 different boost controllers trying to control boost.

Either way you won't be able to run a lower boost than what your actuator is set too. So if your actuator is 10psi, then 10psi is the lowest boost you'll be able to run.

Try and keep things simple. Take the turbotech out of the equation. Hook up the boost signal hose straight too the actuator and see what boost it runs.

Then hook up the turbotech and see if you can adjust boost/see what boost it hits.

If one of these has a problem it'll show in this test.

Too hook it up the turbotech it should be:

Hose from intercooler piping -> Bottom nipple on Turbotech (this nipple is inline with the bolt) -> Hose from other nipple to actuator.

90GT4 Rookie

90GT4

Posted
Posted
Did you disable/remove the stock boost controller?

You have to remove your stock boost controller and use the turbotech in it's place. It's not a good idea to have 2 different boost controllers trying to control boost.

Either way you won't be able to run a lower boost than what your actuator is set too. So if your actuator is 10psi, then 10psi is the lowest boost you'll be able to run.

Try and keep things simple. Take the turbotech out of the equation. Hook up the boost signal hose straight too the actuator and see what boost it runs.

Then hook up the turbotech and see if you can adjust boost/see what boost it hits.

If one of these has a problem it'll show in this test.

Too hook it up the turbotech it should be:

Hose from intercooler piping -> Bottom nipple on Turbotech (this nipple is inline with the bolt) -> Hose from other nipple to actuator.

No I havn't my mechanic didn't say anything about it. But it is in exactly as you mentioned at the bottom.

I only want to run 10/12 if possible for now.

The problem is that I can't even get it below 14/16 where the FCD cuts in, I already know it runs 10pound.

90GT4 Rookie

90GT4

Posted
Posted (edited)

post-41815-1188541092_thumb.jpg

If I was cutting the actuator out of the equation would that mean connecting the arrow hose onto the nipple over the very right? Cause I think that thing has a 3rd nipple.

OT. Is the stock boost controller the actuator? Confused...

Edited by 90GT4
RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted

That drawing is pretty whacky man. I don't understand what that thing is you've boxed.

You can't take the actuator out of the equation. It's what ultimately controls the boost. It opens the wastegate.

What's the stock boost for a GT4?

Maybe if its like a WRX it runs a high boost from factory. WRX's run about 13.5-14psi standard.

RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted

GRT-WGT-008_450.jpg

That thing above is an actuator.

Some cars use only the actuator to control boost. Some use a secondary 'boost controller' to control/raise boost.

The skyline for instance uses a dual stage boost controller from factory. the Actuator is rated at 5psi, but the boost controller when it kicks in bleeds off 2psi to make a total of 7psi.

90GT4 Rookie

90GT4

Posted
Posted

I've taken it out now :rofl: It runs about 10psi, but I have a fuel leak now and need to find it on Monday, sounds like I need to find the standard boost controller if there is one :)

seven Apprentice

seven

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys,

Sorry if these are questions that have already been covered in detail, but i've done a few searches and would just really like to be sure of a few things before i kill my turbo!

I'm using the stock boost guage for the 33gts-t, and i've searched the forum regarding the readings on it, but i was wondering if you could tell me approximately what PSI i'm boosting at if the indicator is hovering about halfway between the middle marking and 0 on the +7 side to save me guesstimating it?

Also, I'm rather worried about recieving an inaccurate reading from the stock guage based on all your advice and i'll be replacing it soon, but i don't want to kill my turbo before that! Is there a chance that i could be running well over what the reading is? Or is it fairly reliable and accurate to the 14 or so PSI that it can display?

I guess the second question is- is it safe for me to be running that PSI on the stock series 2 turbo? How much will it be shortening the lifespan of the turbo by?

I'm running a completely stock engine with stock intercooler- and after driving from my place to the city (around an hour), i've noticed the outside panels of the car around the front left wheel well were pretty darn hot. Is this normal?

Cheers guys! I appreciate your help!

Sorry again if these have all been answered!

Hell Fire Collaborator

Hell Fire

Posted
Posted (edited)

The stock boost gauge is rated in torr (or millimeters of mercury (100xmmHG)), 1 bar is roughly 700-760 mmHG, which is about 14 PSI. Halfway up the positive side of the gauge is about 7 PSI.

With the stock solenoid, it should read just under the bar between when the turbo spools up and 4500RPM, then just either dead on or just over the line the rest of the way.

I've found my gauge to be rather accurate once settled, but it isn't lightning fast to respond to spikes, I've been pretty good at telling when it spikes based on the speed of the movement to the next position.

My car is a pretty stock S2 R33 and I have been messing about with it for a while now. Unless your turbo is in a really shit condition or some idiot has installed a fuel cut defender I wouldn't worry about playing around with it too much.

You'll get a nasty jerk if it spikes into ~12 PSI as you'll hit a safety cut, just ease off the throttle and adjust the controller down. When testing your pressure, always check that you arn't hitting the safety cut in 4th or 5th gear as well. While I was playing about with it I had a setting where it would be perfect in 1st, 2nd and 3rd, but under more open throttles in 4th and 5th it would edge on cutting out.

If your gauge is accurate, you want about 10 PSI which is about halfway again between the +7 mark and half positive.

Edited by Hell Fire
90GT4 Rookie

90GT4

Posted
Posted
Just wondering if the guy who makes these boost controllers in on these forums? I cant buy one as my ebay account is suspended.

His name is Mark, his e-mail is [email protected] , he should be able to help you out out-side of eBay :cheers:

  • 2 weeks later...
markimak Grand Master

markimak

Posted
Posted

lol..

ive got 2 here. i use nothing but them. on all the sils and skyrines.. i use this.. use it on the GTR the GTT the S14 the 180 the RB20 sil.. very reliable and mark is a good mate.. he will deffently look after u.

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