Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

It WAS installed correctly :uh-huh:

All I can think is that since I'm running 1.2 bar ( 17.4 psi ) and I've got a HKS GT25/35 is that the boost pressure rises too fast for the spring pressure to hold accurately / smoothly.

I kinda knew it wasn't going to work on my car before I even got it, but since it's already been sold to someone else and I only lost $10 on the deal it was worth a try.

Oh well, EBC 4 me I guess :)

Yeah, I'd say in your case a higher spring tension is probably necessary, for those looking at electronic variants make sure you give the Jaycar IEBC a good look in, far cheaper than name-brand stuff and arguably more effect once setup (i'd love to see a comparo though) however you DO have to build it yourself and set it up on a dyno for optimal results.

FAT32,

Be sure to get a decent ebc that monitors boost levels and adjusts duty cycle to suit.

Something like an AVCR or Blitz SBC-iD.

:confused: I was just going to get one of those GReddy Profec B Spec 2 jobbies. No good ?

HI FAT,

Did you have it installed after the solenoid? If this is the case you will get symptons that you describe. It must be installed before the solenoid or bypass the solenoid altogether.

The controller should suit application as high as 25 psi.. If you are running less than this then the controller will handle the pressure with joy.

Cheers

Mark

HI FAT,

Did you have it installed after the solenoid? If this is the case you will get symptons that you describe. It must be installed before the solenoid or bypass the solenoid altogether.  

The controller should suit application as high as 25 psi.. If you are running less than this then the controller will handle the pressure with joy.

Cheers

Mark

Hey Mark,

Essentially, it was connected to the boost pick-up point ( a fitting bleeding boost directly off the pipe leading back into the engine ( after the intercooler )) and the outlet of the bleed valve went directly to the wastegate actuator. I don't have a boost solenoid anywhere in the mix.

Does that make sense ?

Fat32, if the setup is prone to dropping boost as you are running the turbo at the limit it will be benifitial to run a ebc that monitors the boost and adjusts the solanoid in real time.

Simple ebc's where you dial in a knob or duty cycle percentage don't cut it.

Depends if you really want that extra 15rwkw from pushing the turbo just that little bit more. :rofl:

If its not the case and they turbo can supply the amount or air required then I would say the bleeder you received was a dodgy item. :)

HEy Fat,

Cubes has already picked up on it but pm or email me your addy again and Ill send you another barb to try. I have a feeling the one where the ball sits in may be faulty. Sometimes they have a scratch or flaw where the ball seats and it wont seal properly, letting pressure through know matter how much you tighten them. I check them all individually but its possible one may have slipped through. It should not have an issue at all with 17 psi..

turbotech@aanet.com.au

Mark

hi guys

I bought one of these and held test's against the main ones on the market.

We used a Dyno for the test, the test car was a 02 wrx.

We sell the PowerUp MBC by the way.

Test Results.

Turbotech, Slight boost Spike mid range of about 1.43psi @ 16psi.

2.12psi drop off at 7600rpm. Quicker spool than standard by 200rpm.

Adjust not very accurate at all, takes a while to set up.

Price Good.

PowerUp MBC

Slight Boost spike mid range of about 0.98psi @ 16psi

1.70psi drop off at 8200rpm. Quicker spool than standard by 700rpm.

Adjustment alot more accurate / Hs Dial.

Price: Afordable

GFB

Slight Boost spike mid range of about 1.22psi @ 16psi

1.95psi drop off at 7900rpm. Quicker spool than standard by 800rpm.

Adjustment alot more accurate.

Price: Afordable

Turbo Xs MBC

Slight Boost spike mid range of about 1psi @ 16psi

2.10psi drop off at 7600rpm. Quicker spool than standard by 500rpm.

Adjustment alot more accurate but need allen key.

Price: Fair

Turbosmart

Slight Boost spike mid range of about 1.30psi @ 16psi

1.85psi drop off at 7900rpm. Quicker spool than standard by 700rpm.

Adjustment alot more accurate and easy.

Price: Higher than the rest.

Basically there all close, but we believe money for value the PowerUp unit has a slight edge. That is why we use and sell them

HEy Fat,  

Cubes has already picked up on it but pm or email me your addy again and Ill send you another barb to try. I have a feeling the one where the ball sits in may be faulty. Sometimes they have a scratch or flaw where the ball seats and it wont seal properly, letting pressure through know matter how much you tighten them. I check them all individually but its possible one may have slipped through. It should not have an issue at all with 17 psi..  

turbotech@aanet.com.au

Mark

G'Day Mark,

Thanks for the offer but one of the guys from this forum has grabbed the valve out of my hot little hands and fitted it to his car already so I no longer own it :D

The thing is, if I screwed the adjuster in ( not all the way of course ), the boost would hold but would not release pressure and she'd over-boost to about 1.5 bar ( 22 psi ). Backing off the adjuster 1/2 a turn at a time made no difference until a point where I'd backed it off another half turn and it then only made 0.5 bar ( 7.5 psi ). I pulled the valve off, chacked the ball and the seat, checked the fittings for obstructions and all was fine. I reinstalled the valve and tried it again with almost the same results. :confused:

I removed it alltogether and re-installed the bleedvalve that was fitted before and it all behaved per normal.

"Maybe" it has something to do with the HKS wastegate actuator I'm using which is preset to not open until 0.9 bar ( 13 psi ) ????? ( internal wastegate on this turbo ) Maybe it and the valve don't like each other :chairshot

Anyway, no harm done and it was worth a try :(

FAT32

If your using external wastegate dont go with the profec b spec 2 as tey such with external gates. Go a hks evc

HKS GT 25/35 w/internal gate on mine. Profec B Spec 2 OK for this ya recon ??

Do you like jrdsports subtle way of trying to claim the turbotech is not as good as his powerup??

What he doesn't realise is that a few members have discarded the powerup and atomics and similar for the reliability of the turbotech!

What a joke, 12 pages of comparisons and then he posts that to try steal business. No evidence to support those figures, no evidence that the testing was even done! I find it hard to believe the guy would buy every boost controller on the market just to test them so he can make that post.

The powerup gets listed on ebay and bidding frequently ends with NO bids yet the turbotech sells 30 a week on ebay.

As a matter of fact I just got an email from a guy who recently purchased a powerup dual stage thats can't even hold 14psi!! It drops right back to 9 psi!!

This is his message cut and pasted right from the ebay email system:

Question from travfleur

Item: Turbotech manual turbo boost controller (4560217549)

This message was sent while the listing was active.

travfleur is a potential buyer.

"Hi, I currently have a power-up dual boost controller. Ive wound it up to 14psi but my car seems to lose boost once it hits 14psi back to around 9psi. Are you saying this controller your selling will fix this problem ??"

I have PM'd jrdsports about the tactic to try get some business but I doubt someone who goes to such a length just for a dollar cares much.

Reviews and over 400 sales and building speaks for itself..

Thanks everyone for your support and postive comments

Cheers

Mark

Until i see boost graphs, I wouldn't give it the time of day, and even then without an INDEPENDANT reviewer any claims one way or the other wouldn't hold a great deal of water.

simark87 keep doing your thing, majority of people on here are smart enough to ignore that sort of post, and as you say there's 12p of positive discussion here to back you up.

agree. Pfttt.

this pretty much prooves its a pile of sh*t

"GFB

Slight Boost spike mid range of about 1.22psi @ 16psi

1.95psi drop off at 7900rpm. Quicker spool than standard by 800rpm.

Adjustment alot more accurate.

Price: Afordable"

we all know a normal bleed valve will not spool up quicker than a controller with ball/spring operation.

pretty silly way of advertising a competing product. he could of atleast researched his compatition before trashing it!

Also

unless i see graphs i dont belive it either as i have personally tested, and infact i was the FIRST person on SAU to try this product and i compared it to a GFB and ithe turbotech was much better.

the guy selling them is the one trying to stake a claim in somone elses thread. Thats called Hijacking.

c. I THINK IT SHOUL BE A BANNABLE OFFENCE!!!! selling skyline owners dodgy products!

my 2c

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs. 
    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
×
×
  • Create New...