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I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!


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Thw whole if it's the one in the side was there just to relieve any pressure trapped in it.. if mark says it's a new one, than I wouldn't be too worried.. i've been running mine for a year now - haven't had any issues..

As for installing it - just replace the T section with it, don't worry about disconnecting the solenoid..

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Links, do you mean leave the hoses connected to the stock solenoid too?

I assume they have to be removed/blocked.

CEF11E, i'm not marks secretary :( but i know from his email that his wife just had a baby. That's probably why he's mia.

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Links, do you mean leave the hoses connected to the stock solenoid too?

I assume they have to be removed/blocked.

CEF11E, i'm not marks secretary :( but i know from his email that his wife just had a baby. That's probably why he's mia.

ahh thats probably why he hasnt replied to mine either :)..

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I've fitted mine and have had a play running 7, 8 and 9psi (stock apart from cat back, POD and cold air box) I disconnected the lower hose on the solenoid (the one that is connected to the T-Piece on the hose from the cooler piping to the actuator) and did not block the hose at the solenoid. Will this cause any issues as while I think the it spools faster, if anything it feels like it's making less power but it could also be the full tank of fuel it has compared to when i last gave it a fang and it was almost empty (but had a mate in the car???) both times were cold nights. I'm wondering if having the bottom hose unblocked is allowing air in/out. I've also done the low boost solenoid bypass. I've attached some pics to show what I mean. I also note my idle has jumped say 100rpm, like it would do if the hose to the boost guage split (which it has done before) so I assume there is air getting in/out somewhere it shouldn't be.

post-23873-1158065568.jpg

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i see your bleed valve doesnt have a hole either. i havent fitted mine, but will when i get a chance.

i read that you dont have to block that bottom pipe from the solenoid, but it wont hurt to try it and see.

I think you should have the top hose from the solenoid blocked, coz you are bypassing that now.

that may be your problem.

have a look at this post

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...375&st=800#

Edited by Munkyb0y
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How is the new style to adjust?

The old was a little touchy and some times not consistent. Mine often had the ball stick up that allowed air to easily pass it. To fix I had to pull it apart then be carefull not to adjust it too much otherwise it would get stuck up off its seat again. :D

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Im stumped

We put mine on, and got it to hold 9-10psi...

My problem is, that even though i had the low/hi boost thing disabled before having the controller put in, my car is still spiking at 4500rpm!

Example, stock is 5psi till 4500rpm, and 7psi from 4500rpm..

add a full exhaust and boost increases to 9psi...so with the low/hi permanently grounded, its a constant 9psi.

now the problem is, that it would spike to 11psi after 4500rpm, so 9/11 just like 5/7.

Was hoping it was fixed with the installation of the MBC, but now its 9-10/12-13!!!!!!

im obviously not driving flat out atm so it wont hit over 10 anyway, but I need to fix the problem so that i dont kill my stock turbo with going over 13psi, and so that I can move forward mods wise...looking to fit fmic/pfc and tune shortly, but cant do that with this current issue :D

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Hi,

I bought this controller a few months ago now but havent been using it becasue of my coils. Now I have my coils fixed I have installed it and running at 12psi. I was expecting the turbo to spool alot faster but I have noticed no difference. My turbo still hits full boost around 3800revs. I have a R34 turbo from a RB25 running on my RB20. The boost also drops from 12psi to 11psi at around 6700revs. Is this normal and is there a way to get my turbo spooling faster? Also does it matter how long the hose is from the turbo and the wastegate?

Thanks! :cool:

Edited by r32matt
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R32matt,

I too have always experienced a boost drop. The ONLY way I was able to fix it was to grab a closed loop type EBC. One that adjusts duty cycle in order to hold the set boost level at higher rpm.

The manual type ebc's where you where you are only able to set a fixed duty I have found still drop boost. The one I tried was a HKS item.

I then dropped a Blitz SBC-iD in to it. Selected auto mode and dialed in 15psi, it learnt the boost curve and held 15psi to redline perfectly.

I then started fiddling with my wastegate to make it adjustable. I elongated the holes so I could place greater pretension on the wastegate, this also prevents the wastegate from opening as much resulting in boost holding perfectly to redline.

I have since pulled off my turbotech boost controller and just running the std wastegate with its elongated bolt up holes. :cool:

Works well.

3800rpm is good for an R34 turbo on an RB20. I wouldn't be complaining about that. :)

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Dezz have you taken the solenoid out of the loop entirely, tried disconnecting the plug and taking off the hoses (block the holes)?

I'm going to try that tonight hopefully and see how it feels. It just felt so much sharper in response and power last time I booted it, could be shit fuel for all I know too. Could be severe engine/turbo wear !! Who knows.. will try blocking off the hoses and see how we go.

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Received mine today, can't wait to put it on, I remember someone posting in this thread some installation instructions for a R33, can anyone remember what page they were on before I look through them all? Thanks

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Dezz have you taken the solenoid out of the loop entirely, tried disconnecting the plug and taking off the hoses (block the holes)?

I'm going to try that tonight hopefully and see how it feels. It just felt so much sharper in response and power last time I booted it, could be shit fuel for all I know too. Could be severe engine/turbo wear !! Who knows.. will try blocking off the hoses and see how we go.

The solenoid is bypassed as both hoses are disconnected and 1 blocked up...even still, its always grounded....and I tried it with the plug disconnected anyway, but get the same result every single time...

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Dezz, that's McOdd... we had a half similar issue with a mates car that wouldn't respond to the low boost solenoid bypass mod but this boost tap fixed it. Weird that yours is still acting dual stage. Sure there's not another controller present somewhere else? A lot of cars coming out to Aus are not 'entirely' returned to stock when they are put through compliance. The mate in question found he has a high flowed turbo and a chipped ECU 0_0 Bastard!

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