Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

they have steel wheels, otherwise standard :huh:

only GTR standard turbos that are steel exhaust wheels are, N1 or nismo turbos. the R32 R33 R34 are all ceramic exhaust wheels.. unless they are a N1 or A/M set. :D

i fitted one to the S14 today need a gauge for it.. so waiting till end of the week.

mark sent me mine in around 3 working days from payment.. quite quick.. :wacko:

maybe groper's referring to the fact that he either has one of the 'factory' steel wheel turbo's or he's had the ceramic ones replaced with steel wheels... possibly...

ok like the 100 other posts before. i purchased one of these boost controllers. i already have a gfb valve already set up on the car and was installed by the previous owner. could someone give me a quick run down of how to install the new boost controller in replace old the gbf, is it just a straight up swap.. disconnect the hoses from gfb then connect them to the turbo tech one?? or is there any change or extras i need to be concerned with. im installing it asap so any imediate help would be awesome!

thanks

jake

so anyone posting a DIY mod for retards or what ?

mine should get in soon so i can hit up 10psi. i dont know what it will look like or how it will work bt if its shithouse on a gear change i will want to change it.

Edited by gts-4 dreamer
so anyone posting a DIY mod for retards or what ?

mine should get in soon so i can hit up 10psi. i dont know what it will look like or how it will work bt if its shithouse on a gear change i will want to change it.

Yeah man is that a question?

Look at the link in post 1449 on this page for a "DIY guide for Retards" ha ha

edit: grammer

Edited by KeyMakeR33
i run mine without the hole and have no boost problems whatsoever with it .

it spikes a bit early in the rev range but after that its quite good

post-23730-1172128480.jpg

That looks like quite a bit of a spike though 16.5psi down to 12.5, did stock boost on your car hold a flatter manifold pressure?? looks like it fluctuates quite a bit.

hey guys,

i just installed this boost controller in the other day.

it seems pretty good now that i have drilled the whole but 1 thing i dont

understand is that i wind the nut all the way up (lowering boost) yet my

boost guage shows .7bar to .75bar BUT if i was to wind it down (up the boost) my guage will show .8 .9 1 depending on how high i set it, so in other words i cant get it to stock boost.

Shouldnt it be showing .5 because the boost

is all the way down???

would this be because the controller isnt installed right or boost guage not reading right.

MODS:

cat back exhaust

pod

atmo BOV

(apexi boost guage)

any1 come across this before???

cheers

Edited by RB32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In a few years from now, you'll regret that. It'll eat away at you, knowing the truth of the ugly hiding beneath the beautiful exterior... 😛
    • I don't think the G2 profile is particularly dangerous for the engine per se, more just are you actually ok with the turbo lag trade-offs? If the answer is yes then go for it. I personally don't think I'd be ok with it because I spend so much time at lower RPMs and I really enjoy the feeling of being able to stay in 5th gear on the highway and just roll into the throttle to get boost. Or staying in 3rd gear on "gentle canyon cruises" without feeling the turbo lag too badly. The 525 pump should be able to run flat out on factory lines but I would bet the pressure drop from pump to regulator is quite impressive. I don't know how much it would be exactly but I've seen figures like 30 psi thrown around.
    • It's interesting seeing everyone talk about what level of risk they are happy to tolerate.  Building a GTR always has a level of risk, you could be that lucky guy that drops 20k on the engine build alone and still has the thing go pop on the dyno. Life is fun like that.  The way I see it, the thing is a toy to be enjoyed. I'd be happy to turn up the power on stock motor and limit the risk with sensible tuning and engine protection. If it still goes pop, it is what it is. The car isn't a daily driver so it can happily sit while a plan is made to sort it out.  Given this thing will be a street car only, I really feel it's worth the (relatively small if managed well) risk to turn the power up to around 350KW on e85.  I don't think anyone getting into the skyline game now is doing it out of logic. Surely it is a purely emotional decision so I'm not sure how important it is to think about the engine build logically. The heart wants what it wants.  @joshuaho96 little note for Josh, I run my 525 pump flat out all the time and through the factory lines without any issues. (excluding the melting connectors, that's sorted now. we'll pretend it never happened lol)
    • But the Nexus S3 is very expensive and won't be as purpose-built for the application as a separate electronic boost controller :^) More seriously my pet issue here would be that the Walbro 525 running at 100% duty cycle is going to require more FPR than the stock setup can handle. I'm also pretty sure from what I've seen elsewhere you might want to slow down the pump regardless unless you're going to come up with some way of upsizing the fuel lines coming from the fuel tank. Factory 8mm fuel line doesn't actually flow very much if you want to keep pressure drop down between the fuel pump outlet and FPR. If you really want to "keep it simple" I would run only as much pump as you need and source a fuel pump controller to slow down the pump in the vain hope of being able to run stock-style FPRs which are pretty dinky. Or just use the HICAS lines and it should be mostly fine. OP should also really think hard about what profile they'd want out of the turbo. My pet choice here would be the G1 profile rather than anything higher power but YMMV. I already think ~stock turbo lag is pretty bad so I don't want to make it worse. In "gentle canyon cruising" I found that I spent a lot of time around 4-4.5k RPM. I also recommend DIYing labor if you're detail-oriented enough. Costs are high for labor + if you do it yourself you can be your own quality control.
    • GTSBoy is again on the money. My actual advice? Sell the car. (really). For what it's worth as is, you can sidegrade into something much better. If you care about function then this is the actual move. If you want a Skyline to perform, set aside about $100K to do it. This is NOT a typo. You will see right away these are two very different mindsets. Realistically we're talking full restomod for any Skyline still kicking around. Have an honest think about which one you are.. and what you want to do, and how much you want to invest in this (with no return).
×
×
  • Create New...