Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, i was just looking at this Boost controller and i wanted to know if i install this in my r34 will i be able to put one of those rocket switches to change the boost when i want from low to high...

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 1 month later...

According to instruction on this bleed valve,

One line goes to the turbo compressor and the other to the actuator. My turbo has nothing for me to hook the line to the compressor, where else can i connect it to? ......any vacum line off the throttle body?

Thanks

you need to get your boost scource from BEFORE the throttle body. the closer to the tirbo the better. if you have an R33 you can use the line that goes to the boost solenoid.

cheers!

Has anyone had problem with boost gauge in the instrument cluster? Mine has never worked since I brought car from importer.

Anyone know how this gauge works?

Aslo, if you do install this a conrtoller how do you set it to 10psi if the gauge only goes to 7?

  • 2 weeks later...
Has anyone had problem with boost gauge in the instrument cluster? Mine has never worked since I brought car from importer.

Anyone know how this gauge works?

Aslo, if you do install this a conrtoller how do you set it to 10psi if the gauge only goes to 7?

Factory boost guage is rated in mmHg (as it's printed on the dash)

That's millimeters of Mercury, I believe? Anyway, it's not Pounds per Square Inch which we generally use in Australia.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pressure...rter-d_569.html

I bought one of these about... 3 years ago? I bought a cheap boost guage and tapped off the same line that the factory guage uses... ran that pipe into the cabin through the firewall and then started setting the boost. Once I found 10psi exactly, I disconnected the pipe and boost guage and put it in the shed. This controller has been flawless ever since. I haven't once touched it since I set it!

So on the dash... 10psi is about 500mm Hg... which is +5 (x100) on the dash. Occasionally I look at the boost when i'm going uphill, and it sits on +5 and never spikes. Best controller you can buy for $30+shipping. (It was $22 delivered when I bought it!)

  • 3 months later...

just installed it onto my r32 it was excelent holds boost well, better respone spools fast loving it

tip becarful wen you first install it i thought it was set at low boost but it boosted me p to 15 hhahahahh

nonetheless great product at an affordable price

cheers giuseppe

Yeah it's held out for me over the past year of owning my skyline.

I find however that it takes longer to spool my turbo up, using this MBC... when using the stock solenoid it comes on boost much quicker. Any opinions?

Yeah it's held out for me over the past year of owning my skyline.

I find however that it takes longer to spool my turbo up, using this MBC... when using the stock solenoid it comes on boost much quicker. Any opinions?

If you are reaching a higher level of boost compared to stock then of course it will take longer to reach maximum boost!

I can't beleive this thread is still going!

  • 2 weeks later...
Yeah it's held out for me over the past year of owning my skyline.

I find however that it takes longer to spool my turbo up, using this MBC... when using the stock solenoid it comes on boost much quicker. Any opinions?

I have a r32 so I can't comment on how it compares against the stock solenoid system, but to me, boost seems to hit a lot quicker with the boost controller hooked up and set at 10psi at plenum (vs 5psi at plenum without the controller).

  • 2 weeks later...

well either my boost gauge can only get to 5psi or my turbotech wont increase my boost?? whether its screwed right in or out nothing really seems to change? i can feel power come in quicker but cannot increase the boost?

have i missed something or is my gauge damaged? :(

  • 4 weeks later...

HAY THERE.

I JUST GOT MY BC AND ITS GOING WELL EXCEPT IT MAKES A BIG SQUEAKING SOUND.

IVE GOT A R33 FACTORY 25DET MANUAL AND HOOKED IT BACK UP TO THE STANDARD SOLENOID AND NO MORE SQUEAK .

SO THE BOOST CONTROLLER IS MAKING THE SQUEAK AND I THINKS ITS FROM THE HOLE IN IT.

PLUS IT DOESNT WANT TO BOOST OVER 10PSI. IT HAS A FLAT SPOT THE WHOLE WAY TILL ABOUT 6000RPM AND THE STANDARD SOLENOID IS UNPLUGGED.

ITS HOOKED UP TO THE PLENUM AND THE ACTUATOR BUT DOES EXACTLY THE SAME THING WHEN HOOKED BETWEEN THE ACUATOR AND THE VALVE OFF THE INTERCOOLER PIPING.

SOME ONE HELP ME OUT ITS REALLY ANNOYING ME!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...