Jump to content
SAU Community

I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!

CEF11E

By CEF11E,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

R33_Beast Enthusiast

R33_Beast

Posted
Posted

Turbotech Electronic Dual Stage Upgrade Kit WITH V2 Manual Boost Controller just ordered. Really looking forward to seeing how this performs compared to my old HDi electronic boost controller. :D

R33_Beast Enthusiast

R33_Beast

Posted
Posted

Just had my V2 controller and Electronic Dual Stage Upgrade Kit (missile switch) installed today. For those of you running one, is the missile switch supposed to light up blue when flicked to high boost? It did seem to light up for a few seconds briefly then went dark. I'm not 100% sure as it's not mentioned in the instruction manual at all.

Brad54 Enthusiast

Brad54

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Just asked this question in another thread but figured this would be a more appropriate place for it, plus might help out people in future who want to know the same thing.

Does anyone know what the quality of TurboTech's boost gauges are like?

I recently ordered a boost controller from TurboTech (after reading how awesome they were) and it came with a mechanical boost gauge.

Haven't hooked it up yet tho, wanted to know if it's even worth installing first.

Now I assume that they are not their own TurboTech branded boost gauges, that they merely on-sell another brands product packaged in with their own.

I also assume that with all the raving reviews of TurboTech's controllers they wouldn't go jeopardising their great reputation by supplying sub-par accessories; but hey, I might be wrong...

Any thoughts/opinions?

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

I would assume the gauge is accurate "enough" for what you're doing... I've used yumcha vs. jap gauges before and didn't see any real difference between the readings.

Being a mechanical gauge too, it's more simplier to build

Brad54 Enthusiast

Brad54

Posted
Posted (edited)

I would assume the gauge is accurate "enough" for what you're doing... I've used yumcha vs. jap gauges before and didn't see any real difference between the readings.

Being a mechanical gauge too, it's more simplier to build

Yeah fair point, reason I ask though is because I think (hope) my stock gauge is reading incorrectly. Either that or I'm overboosting.

I did the ol' solder trick to the boost sender unit and it fixed it cutting out randomly, but now that it works all the time the gauge is maxing out when boosting hard.If it does happen to be showing a proper boost pressure, this means its pumping around 14 psi!...

So I want to install the TurboTech to keep it under control but don't want a gauge telling me I'm running a safe 9psi but really I'm on 15 psi and go bang! :down:

Edited by Brad54
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

on a stock ECU, your motor won't go bang :)

The stock ECU detects knock and drops timing, hence the knock sensor. The only thing that would go bang is your nylon turbo made with fairy floss lol

  • 4 weeks later...
Marcus89 Proficient

Marcus89

Posted
Posted

Need to give big props to Turbotech for customer service.

I have had a Turbotech MBC for a good while now and recently I lost the bolt and spring from the controller. Sent Turbotech an email on Ebay to see if I could buy the bits seperately and they straight away just offered to send them to me for free not even charging for postage. Very impressed by them

suwidji Experienced

suwidji

Posted
Posted

Need to give big props to Turbotech for customer service.

I have had a Turbotech MBC for a good while now and recently I lost the bolt and spring from the controller. Sent Turbotech an email on Ebay to see if I could buy the bits seperately and they straight away just offered to send them to me for free not even charging for postage. Very impressed by them

lol how did you manage to lose the bolt and spring? Was it installed in your car when you realised? :/

Marcus89 Proficient

Marcus89

Posted
Posted

lol how did you manage to lose the bolt and spring? Was it installed in your car when you realised? :/

I had threaded it out real far to make sure it didn't make any more boost than actuator pressure on new turbo. Unfortunately didn't realise it was right on the edge of the thread. I noticed I had lost it the day before tuning the car so unfortunately was only able to tune on actuator pressure

Badcredit33 Contributor

Badcredit33

Posted
Posted

Well, lets just say that this is one awesome bit of kit! Got it in the mail today, and went for a drive, pulled up to adjust it up a bit more, set it to 18psi and it just spools straight up to max boost and friggen sits there. Drops off 1psi at redline but that's it.

I'm am very very impressed. Throttle response is off tap. Cheers guys

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I've done a few BMS systems. Code in Canada use to force us to have any safety components outside of the PLC but with a code change back in 2018 I believe it was, we can now use safety PLC's to control everything. Sadly to your point, AB Guardlogix safety instructions for example are only available in ladder.  Machine safety is a very big thing here though, you're constantly forced to migrate to the next best thing by OSHA. I honestly prefer safety plc's, including anything from AB more then I do working with old school safety monitoring relays. PLC is only one portion of it, the rest of the electrical still has to follow to meet SIL (Mechanically linked dual contacts, bla bla)  Now tell me how to feel about safety over comm's (e.g Ethernet/IP CIP) on a unmaintained network haha
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      To your point, boolean logic. We're not only working with bools in ecu's, so it's very limiting. I wanted to setup a low WMI pressure alarm. After 1 second I want WMI line to hit 100PSI, 2 seconds 175PSI, etc. and trigger an alarm if it doesn't meet those thresholds. This would of taken me one very short line of text, but instead I had to bugger around with generic timers, conditions, etc. and so forth.
    • pogman
      Low oil pressure after WOT

      By pogman · Posted

      I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs. 
    • Murray_Calavera
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Kapr
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
×
×
  • Create New...