Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im having problems shifting to first gear when the car is in motion. eg: im going around 15km/h around a bend and i wanna gear down from second to first i have to use a bit off force to get it into first though if my car is idle or going under 5km/h theres no problem at all.

Any 1 got any ideas on what the problem is?

why would you want to put it in first anyways?

everytime im about to pull up to my driveway i have to slow down to the max to put it into first, y cant i put it into first while im a few metres from my driveway?

We sure do get some funny opinions on here. Like the [apparently] commonly held view that there is something technically wrong with changing back to 1st gear. No more than changing back to any lower gear! If you syncronise the speed of rotation of the gear driven by the engine, with that of the gear driven by the wheels - Viola!! or Presto!!! or whatever, then they will mesh easily and silently, and no damage done, and why not?

The syncromesh normally does this for you, but it becomes harder for the mechanism to syncronise speeds, the lower the gear, and the further apart are the revs of the 2 gears. Don't think my one finger could take writing a full description of how and why on this, however........

You actually can do this syncronising yourself by "double-declutching" sometimes known as 'doubling the clutch',which among other things will make your Syncros last virtually forever. It's a slower method of changing, but I habitually do it all the time, except when some nut 'has a go' and annoys me.

If anybody really wants a run-down of how to do it,I will,reluctantly write it up. Trouble is, it sounds much more complex than it is, albeit after a bit of practice.

With that in mind,when I went out to-day, I thought I'd see just what was possible [R32 GTSt] -- The first surprise I got was at the 1st Round a bout, when I found that I normally change back into 1st at between 15 and20k, because the exit of this round a bout, goes into one lane and there is mostly some Galah, who has gone around the outside, and is going to beat you to the one lane.. NOT!!!

I found that I do the change back to 1st so naturally, that I was not even aware of it.

So,,,,,,, I did some experiments and found it perfectly easy up to 30k. Got more difficult over 35k, in that you needed to be more precise with revs. As around 40k is about [i find] about the fastest USEFUL speed when going UP in 1st gear, there was'nt much point in trying anything else, but it would be possible, but useless, up to your rev limit.

Yeah, I looked and found it. My advice to anyone who does'nt already know all about it, to stay away from it. About 50% of it is wrong and the other 50% of it is not right!!! No, it's not quite that bad, but at least 50% of the opinion is wrong and the rest is only slightly more difficult to understand than the theory of relativity. They've all ignored the function of 'baulk rings', which is why Tracid Trax originally thought there was something the matter with his gearbox, because it was just plain not possible to force it in. Therefore,that's why those who say that double de-clutching is'nt necessary, or is a waste of time, are WRONG.

It allows you to go into a gear you want to go into, by the use of knowledge and skill, when the wonderful 'Do everything for you - you don't need to know, Syncromesh gearbox' fails. Before anybody trys to explain the double de-clutching method, or what syncromesh does would be well advised to first find out how a basic gearbox works.

As an apprentice our work truck was an international with no syncros so I had to learn pretty damm fast how to double clutch. they way I learnt was to listen to to revs (no taco)at certain speeds so if I had to change to that gear at that speed i'd rev to that sound and it would slip in with no crunch, up was allways easier than down.

hahah no synchros is a great way to learn. The other way is to drive the car without using the clutch for a while, you will soon know if you are getting it right or not :D

But Jax, don't you agree there is no real benefit to double declutching if your sychros are OK? We have had a lot of synchro trouble with our race cars but when they are OK good old heal toeing is all that is required

No, sorry, I don't agree. Unless the clutch is engaged when you rev the engine, then you don't bring the engine driven gears up to match the gears driven by the wheels. If you don't get those speeds right [with no,or worn syncros] or close, with good syncros, then the baulk rings will stop the gears meshing.

I know nothing about Eastern Creek, left Sydney before it existed, but very familiar with Oran Pk, Amaroo and most other Aust circuits, and agree that, as there are no, to my knowledge,1st gear corners anywhere [unless you lost it] then what you say is OK for circuit racing, BUT, I was addressing the original question of this thread. He needs to get it in 1st., and in an efficient way, and as I do on that round a bout the only way is by doubling the clutch. [There may have been a hillclimb or two around which may have had a 1st gear corner -- maybe there still is?]

By the way, some gearboxes won't come out of gear without using clutch - most will so long as throttle is floating or backed off. I had several GTR Toranas and none of them, M21 g/boxes, could be got out of gear without the clutch [not without so much force that you went straight thru neutral into another gear. Lost clutch several times - bloody nightmare]

By the way,again - like to see someone enter that round a bout with me and come out in front, without using 1st gear and without doubling clutch - Horses for courses.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
  • Create New...