Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey chaps.. i kno this has probably been covered before but would appreciate peoples opinions on the matter, i have a fairly standard RB20det with exhaust, pod, boost controller and front mount.... recently i purchased a T3 ball bearing turbo with external gate. I am not a complete moron but would like some advice or somebodies knowledge on how else to equipe the motor for somewhere around 300rwhp

was thinking--- after market manifold fabricated to suit my gate

a walbro fuel pump

GTR or sard injectors

sequential BOV

re-mapped ecu or piggyback?

i need sort of mid range power for drift so to me, this application sounds about right... if anybody has done a similar engine enhancement to this it would be greatly appreciated if they could point me in the right direction of how they went about it and the power outcome.

thanks for your time :wassup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73628-ceff-engine-upgrade-time/
Share on other sites

the parts u listed there should get u close to that figure..

i also had a similar setup..

T3, rb20, GTR fuel pump, Boost COntroller, 2.5 inch turbo back zorst and Larger Cams, on around 13psi got me around the 170rwkw mark..

things missing were injectors, FMI and maybe a remapped ECU (toshi from the forums here can do it for like 200 bux) .. shoud bring it close to the 210 rwkw mark..

GTR - injectors = 250 bux

ECU = 200 bux

FMIC = 700 bux installed including the the GTR sized intercooler.

U might have to wind the the boost to say 15-16 pounds to get that much thou..

Ive seen that setup before..

gnarly cheers for the feed back man

i gotta get a t3 flange welded onto my manifold as the huffer is currently sporting a t4 pattern and modify the external gate situation to suit my normalair-garret waste gate... already got the cooler installed and its making reasonable horse power as is, but a little more couldnt hurt surely!

know anywhere i can get sum GTR injectors for 250 quid?

If you plan to use it for drift, in my opinion, the best thing you could do is sell up all the goodies you have for your RB (including engine) and do an SR20det converion. The conversion is very simple and makes the car SOOOO easy to slide you will be amazed. The extra tourque does not go astray either.

I have driven one SR cefiro, one SR laurel and frequently drifted another SR20 laurel (stock with 0.7bar boost and coilovers and diff) and i must say i was completing sections of Qld Raceway i could only have dreamt of in my RB powed laurel.

Go for the SR.

yer i used to pilot a SR 180.. cant beat the sound and kick of an sr but im quite content listening to my truck like RB at the mo... although an SR would give a lot less under steer wich is better for dori... tell u wat when i lunch my RB il gladly swap it for a black top sr or something---- dont really have the $ for a 26 i can hardly afford a big mac meal these days :headspin:

  • 2 weeks later...

hey all... sorry to re-kindle an old thread but any one that has done a T3 or other conversion how did u go with the oil lines for the turbo, like can use standard? my mate got one made up of a tephlon (spelling?) style pipe with braded coating cost him 100bux

proly should be in the mech section but i only read this thread! :kick:

cheers peeps!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
    • *waits* for chop idle videos and TT kit hanging off the motor. I like these sounds now, my inner bogan is growing.    
    • Want to buy a good running Rb20det in Sydney preferably complete or long block 
×
×
  • Create New...