Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

I know this has been asked 1000 times (i've searched and searched :P ) but i installed my 'Go fast bits - Atomic' manual boost controller. I disconnected the old boost solenoid thing, and hooked up one end of the boost controller to the air intake pipe, and the other end into the actuator pipe (this went into the top plug in the stock controller). The little tube thing goes back into the throttle body?? (it used to sit on the bottom plug on the stock controller..) i plugged that hose up with a screw. A followed a few howto's from the archives and I think ive got it hooked up right. Problem is when I adjust the boost it lower it works.. stays at like 5psi.. but when i try make it higher it doesnt seem to change from when i had the stock solenoid on.. stays at like 8-9psi.. Alltho with the stock solenoid on i'd sometimes see it at 12psi for a little bit.. Im also usin an aftermarker boost guage to check the results.

Anyone have any ideas ??? Or am i missing something.. like i need something else.. to make the car make more turbo goodness ?? hmmm.. ???

my cars a r33 series 2 gtst btw.. 3" exhaust, fmic, safc2 etc..

thanks heaps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73629-atomic-manual-boost-controller/
Share on other sites

a took a pic just now.. u cant realy see it.. but it may help :P

Also i was looking in the little manual that came with it.. it said if my problem occurs ive got it wrong around the wrong way. It ses make sure the arrows are pointing towards the actuator thingy.. I double checked though and it definetly is.

I just checked it again with the thing fully closed, it doesnt seem to make a differance if its open or closed i thought it did before.... keeps going to like 7-8...

i want 10-12 or something :~(!!!

thanks heaps for that :P

It looks like its setup the same as mine.. arrows points towards actuator etc..

That pipe that goes to the top plug on the stock solenoid thingy where does that go back to ? Down to some bigger black plastic tube, and then into the intake pipe right ?

and not the actuator ? I plugged mine with a screw..hmm but that shouldnt make a diff ?

thanks again

grr ok i hooked it all up to the stock stuff... and connected the 2 pipes that go into the soilnoid into the boost controller.. i tried it with it both ways around... and its still sitting at like 7-8. its fully closed.. maybe im understanding/testing it wrong.. if its set to be at like 5psi or something... it should never realy get past 5psi right..

I dont wana have to pay for someone to get this going for me grrr !

I have the same bleed valve as you.

Here was my problem. Car would boost up to about 10psi, and then gradually creep up to about 14psi by 7000rpm. Keep in mind this is with aftermarket computer/turbo/cooler etc.

The thing was, I wanted 16psi right from the start. None of this gradual increase crap. What I managed to find out was that someone had fully closed the valve between when it got tuned (at 16psi) and then I picked the car up.

So with NO valve (valve closed), my car was running the minimum boost which was 10psi at 4000rpm up to 14psi at 7000. I opened the valve 1 turn, nothing... 3 turns, nothing... 10 turns, instant 12psi and 15 turns... 16psi at 4000rpm. By turns I could be meaning half turns cause I can't remember but the point is, you really have to wind that thing out many turns before you will notice an increase in boost over stock.

Also as far as I know, the valve does not let you lower your boost. You can't make it run less boost than stock. However, winding it out (if nothing happens just keep winding) should increase your boost to where you want it.

Also, for the GFB Atomic, you need an ALLEN KEY to open it up. Make sure you using one :thumbsup:

I think you might be right Dee..

Last night i took out the pipe that connects to the T/air intake originaly (like i should have 3 days ago grr) and it had a bloody restrictor in it.. so i've replaced that cable now.. and had it closed and it didnt seem to go over 8psi.. im going to try the unscrewing it 50 times trick now and see what happens.

I'll unplug the electrical connector going in the stock solenoid first to see if that does anything as well ? I thought that *just* opens it at 4500rpm ?

ooh im so excited, one of these ideas has got to work :D

thanks heaps

yay thanks heaps Dee!

i turned it back heaps and heaps and it went to like 15-18 for the split second b4 i nearly had a heartattack.. So its definetly working. Gonna take me ages to work out how many turns she needs to get what im after but its working atleast :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all, not sure how active SAU is anymore but will ask away anyways. Just wanted to get some experience on the 2008 model GTR CBA model.  I've hit that age in my life (43) where I'm like fk it time to get my dream (midlife crisis) car. Looking at importing one in and seeing if these can be reliable if the main flaws are fixed up. Plan is to keep money aside to do the following straight off the bat to future proof it: * install a stage 1 rebuilt trans with all new bits and pieces.  * install a new Bellhousing from the later model GTRs. Or potentially an upgraded stronger version like MAD or ATR. Besides the above two things and typical maintenance items anything else you'd recommend doing.   Been speaking to a few people and the engine on these are very reliable apparently. But keen on the view of the community here. Hoping to find a nice grade 4.5 with low mileage in Grey. I'd go black but swirls too easy. Look forward to your responses and feedback. Cheers    
    • Do Alan and Keith work on Skylines now? I remember buying stuff from them when I owned my Ralliart Lancer a few moons ago. Definitely genuine guys and be excellent if they dealt with the skyline platform as well.
    • Hey all, I'm Gaston from Sydney's West.  I was a member on here when I was a younger lad and owned a mint R33 GTS-T. Ended up selling it and getting married having kids (yadda yadda) we all know how the story goes. Now I'm back with the intention to get my midlife crisis (dream) car ... a R35 GTR.  You'll see me about asking questions and searching the forums. Good to be back and can't wait to get back an Import again.
    • I have to put something here in order to post the photos. From what I could gather there's more enthusiasm for modified cars now than there has been for years. There were probably more younger people there than older (me included lol) which was a good sign.  It did seem like the record least amount of representation of the 90's era hero cars on display though. Like maybe one or two examples of S-chassis Nissans, and maybe 3 or 4 R-chassis. By comparison there were a lot of Civics from that era but in all there were about 10 - 12 EG/EK Civic Type R.  Euro exotics are always there in large numbers, led by Liberty Walk...... say what you will about kids using markers to scribble on a Ferrari F40, it did seem like a stunt to infuriate Ferrari enthusiasts, or Ferrari itself. I wonder if there's something more to it. Either way LBWK have done some heinous things to a Lamborghini Miura this time. They should stop now.
    • Engines and drivelines are not war stoppers for me mate, busted arse bodies and un-obtainium parts and panels are though Both cheap Brumbies I looked at had trashed tubs and a fair bit of rust
×
×
  • Create New...