Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I have just installed a Hybrid front mount kit on my r32 Rb20, the install was down excellently but when i took it for a test drive the car was really quick and zippy up until 5000rpm then it filt like it was restricting or sort of reving but not going anywhere, i cant work out the problem..the car is running standard boost (which is about 9-10psi because i have a 3 inch turbo back exhaust and filter..the boost looks like it is now around 11 psi because of the front mount).

if anybody can shed some light on this problem or if they have had any problem which is similar could they please let me know what i can do about it

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73718-power-loss-after-front-mount-instal/
Share on other sites

nah the clutch is definetely not slipping it feels like the motor cant keep up with the revs or something and after 5 grand it sort of lags........if i put my foot to the floor you notice the "holding back" of the motor at 5 grand heaps more then if i ease it past 5 grand gradually....

is it worth getting it tuned (what could they tune if i dont have a standard computer??????)

Before you even think about getting it tuned throw it on the dyno for a diagnostic dyno run.

Prices here in Adelaide vary from as low as $35 right up to around $80. So shop around.

I had mine get the $35 power run, they set timing and gave it a power run.

Grabbed a print out of boost & AFR's. It told me she was leaning out :rofl:

Leaning out makes a car feel flat, if its not leaning out then have a look to see if your knock sensor plugs have wiggled loose & throw your ecu in to diag mode to check if indeed the knock sensors have given strange readings as of late (hit the search button for an ecu diag.)

It could also be your sparky's not liking the little bit extra boost and breaking down causing power to go flat.

could it just be getting to point where the rb20 turbo is running out of puff, my old CA18DET would be like that because it had all the bolt ons but the stock turbo would run out of huff at like 5000rpm

could be completely wrong though just an idea

The stock rb20 turbo isn't running out of puff and the R32's don't have the same ecu retard/rich issues.

So its neither of those.

I am leaning strongly towards the plugs and leaning out. Especially if you are running the stock fuel pump.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
    • Just wanted to say thank you for your input   my man (lead mechanic by trade) and I have done a heap of work as you can imagine just to make the hot side work with the dump pipe, stupid massive intake on turbo, trying to get the waste gate on was not fun.  I’m kinda getting to the point where I don’t know if I try and make this work and not throw all this cash and time away or do I scrap the lot and start again? the Apexi I’ve got was tuned for a few slight differences:   Tomei pon cams (mine are stock neo) Turbo smart 38mm external waste gate (mines 45mm replumbed) with stainless screamer pipe  3inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat Sard 800cc top feed injectors Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg    
    • Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
×
×
  • Create New...