Jump to content
SAU Community

AVCR wierd issue

Coxy_

By Coxy_,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest two.06l

Guest two.06l

Posted
Posted
I see now why I don't have that problem because I have the injector duty wire hooked up instead of rpm.  It's one or the other and since I was concerned about runnning out of injector head room I chose that one.  The unit needs rpm input to do the gear based learning, I think that's how it works.

correct!

Coxy_ Collaborator

Coxy_

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hahaha dude you got a small ****n head...where as I got a big ****n head......dont think it will fit !!! :P  

I want to get my own one anyways....plus I got a mate who has a few motorbike helmets I can borrow....as long as its a full face helmet it should be right eh ?

haha i thought that might be the case..

Yeah any bike helmet would be good enough :D

Coxy_ Collaborator

Coxy_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks! :(

Yeah i dont know what it is - Im thinking of turning off the learn mode and running for a while without it.. Does it still boost and hold fine on yours? any bad spiking from it?

One other thing I noticed which may or may not make a difference is that one of the hoses (i think still connected - the one that bleeds off air) has a doughnut shaped piece of metal inside the hose that looks like its supposed to restrict the flow of air or something? The hole in it is very small, alot smaller than the width of the hose - have you got the same thing?

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

I don't have this restrictor or whatever it is.

I am getting spikes for 2 reasons. One my solenoid is all the way over the other side of the car with a ridiculous amount of hose back to the other side.

Two, I haven't gotten around to tuning the spike out. I think I know how to but just haven't done it yet.

  • 3 weeks later...
Coxy_ Collaborator

Coxy_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey!!!! I think Ive fixed all the problems I had!! - Adam you were right it was definitely the tune :cheers:

I sat down and read the whole manual for the first time, I wish I did before!

:chairshot

It turns out there was some settings that I should have had adjusted but didnt know:

1. The N/E Point for the RPM was monitoring from 3000 - 6500 RPM, and the car winds out to about 6600-6700 before the gear change - so after 6500 it wasnt monitoring the boost anymore! thats why it was going crazy... I set it to monitor 3500 - 7000 and it doesnt spike anymore

2. The Feedback speed I suspect wasnt set fast enough.. it was on 3 - I set it to 5 and I already instead of spiking to 1.28 bar it wont go over .90 - i dont know if the speed being too fast can cause any damage so i dont want to turn it up too much

Plus the car wasnt hitting .90 very quickly - it would only start to hit that boost at very high RPM - in the manual it also told me that 4 Speed A/T cars need to have the gear setting for 5th set to 1... I put that down and now the car hits .90 alot earlier and stays there - no spiking at all!

very happy now! :uh-huh: :uh-huh: :uh-huh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • r32-25t
      2025 Osaka Auto Messe

      By r32-25t · Posted

      I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • Rezz
      2025 Osaka Auto Messe

      By Rezz · Posted

      $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • MBS206
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • joshuaho96
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...