Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mmm does anyone know how to use one of these?

It is pretty simple............

There are 2 settings, Boost (that controls the amount of boost) and Duty (that sets the solenoid duty, controls the boost climb rate). There are 4 options for boost level, I have mine set as follows;

0.70/48

0.80/54

0.90/60

1.00/66

So 0.7 bar has a fast climb rate and 1 bar has a slower climb rate.

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

PS, there are instructions in the Commander manual.

  • 2 months later...

Hi guys,

I now have my PFC boost control kit hooked up, and it doesn't seem to follow the logic above....

1 0.70 kg/cm2 48255

2 0.75 kg/cm2 50 255

3 0.80 kg/cm2 54 255

4 0.85 kg/cm2 56 255

When I set the max boost for 0.85 kg/cm2, the duty cycle seemed to affect actual boost more than the boost setting.

ie: 0.85 48 gave 0.7 kg/cm2

0.85 70 gave 0.9 kg/cm2

I mucked around and found that 0.85 66 gave the correct 0.85 kg/cm2 max boost level. This seems to match the Apexi AVC-R instructions

which say:

"When max boost of ACTUAL driving is HIGHER than target boost, adjust the duty LOWER. If the max boost of ACTUAL driving is LOWER than target boost, set the duty HIGHER"

This doesn't make sense to me, as the whole point of closed-loop boost control is that the ECU should work out the correct solenoid duty cycle from the pressure sensor, not need to have it keyed in!

Also, if the boost is really controlled by the input duty cycle, this makes a lie out of altering boost climb rate by changing this variable...

Two other things have me wondering:

1) Why are their four lines for different boost levels?

2) There is a third column, which is set at 255 for all rows and can't be changed via the hand controller - what is this number?

Any help welcomed (especially from Sydneykid!)

Cheers, Peter.

Hey There.

I also have the PFC boost control.

The way it works is that the 0.8,8,9,1.0 Bar settings sets the max HELD boost. You will find that no matter what the other setting is, on sustained full throttle, the boost kit will hold at that boost.

It may spike however if the duty cycle is too high a number, which will bring boost on really fast, it will spike and then settle down to the max boost number.

The 255 bit, is a non user adjustable display. When you change the max boost number, this goes back to 255. Once the PFC has learnt how to control the set amount of boost, this number will change to a different number, which is simply a display number. You cannot adjust this.

You should asjust the gain so that you don't spike the boost. You can check this by watching the line graph whilst ramping through the boost.

BASS OUT

Thanks Bass,

That makes sense - the peak reading I was getting was from the peak-hold function, and the actual boost may well have settled back down to a steady 0.85 after the spike. I will look at the trace line more closely.

Sounds like the duty setting I have now is as aggressive I can get in boost climb rate without overshooting.

Nobody has an answer on why there are 4 lines tho' - if you can control steady peak boost with the first number and climb rate with % duty cycle, why do we need any more than one line of code?

I will keep my eye on the 255 number, but it has not changed so far...

Cheers, Peter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not that I know from experience, but in theory you'd want your gate spring to be as close to target pressure as possible, so you'd go with the higher gate spring?
    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...